So I just inherited a 1964 Plymouth Valiant Signet 200 Black hard-top coupe with 85k on the original 170ci /6. The car has been sitting for about a year but was running and used regularly before then.

Here is my short list of things I think need to be done to get the car running again safely. Looking for some feedback:

Change gas
Change fuel filter
Change oil
Change anti-freeze
Change spark plugs
Check water pump
Check timing belt
Charge battery (new but dead)

The car was well maintained but needs some interior and exterior restoration. I have to admit, this is my first classic car so when I read that this thing has only 101 HP my jaw dropped a bit. I'm mostly a sports car guy so haven't really owned something with much lower than 300hp. I know the curb weight is light so that should help a little.

I'm not looking to race this thing but I would like to be able to drive around safely and be able to give it some gas if I need to merge/pull out. What are my options to boost performance?

Any and all help is appreciated.

HEI ignition would be the cheapest and best upgrade to start with. If it dosent have it, look into getting power disk breaks for the front. Drums are ok but disks work better and add to the safety needed of a daily driver. I wouldent worry to much about the "power" of the motor to start with. These have great torque and being it is in an A body car should be fine. Focus on getting it running and driving well then plan on upgrades and you will be much happier in the long run.

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~Nic

This is exactly the type of advice I'm looking for! Can you recommend any disc break conversion kits? When I started looking the prices were all over the place.

I'm going to look at the ignition situation. There was a box in the car that contained a autoparts internation 5195 ignition coil that recently went into the car. Not sure what difference (if any) that makes since that appears to be an OEM replacement.

Welcome aboard.
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I chuckled when you said the above. My first and only sports car was a 1959 Bug Eye Sprite with a 948cc 52 hp torque monster under the hood. My need for speed is now satisfied with a 300C.

Those 170's can be made to perform, but get what you have running and driving safely with suspension & brake work before any power upgrades.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Welcome to the board.

You can't go... if you can't stop. I sourced Kelsey Hayes 4 piston disc brakes for my '64. They were available, they didn't require replacing the upper control arm to the large ball joint variety, and I already had the rallye wheels with viable tires mounted.

That said... if I had it to do again, I'd look at the '73 and up front disc brakes. Parts are more readily available, and the wheel choice options are better. The hitch on the large bolt pattern is the necessity to replace the rear axles or third member. But then again, a Ford Explorer (or similar) third member will have disc brakes available for the rear.

The options are only limited by your enthusiasm.

I am really enjoying my '64. I know you will enjoy yours. Happy motoring!

Neil

Haha yeah my background is a little different. Had a 2003 Mustang Cobra with the supercharged 4.6L. Did some work on it and had it dynoing at 440hp/500tq. Sold that and have a 2010 bmw 335i which is full bolt on and tuned to around 400hp (estimated).

What really got me excited so far is popping the hood and looking at how much space there is in the '64. I'm so used to having to deal with cramped spaces and figuring out what each thing is and needs to go to this is going to be a breath of fresh air!

Based on everyone's responses so far my first stop after the basic fluid maintenance and HEI conversion will be brakes. Safety is #1 above all and reliable brakes are pretty high on that list.

I will look at some different options based off your recommendations. I'm still getting used to the fact that so many parts are interchangeable and can be made to work/fit. In the world of modern cars, it doesn't work that way

Dont go for an expensive break "kit" the single piston calipers work very well so theres no need for a 4 piston one. Nor do you need drilled and sloted rotors if its going to be a daily driver.

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~Nic

Thanks. I originally found the kits but read the advice here and started looking at finding them from a 73-76 a-body. The rub is it will be a decent investment the way I see it because I will need:

-Brakes and associated parts needed for the conversion
- new wheels in front that fit LBP
- New axle in rear with LBP to match
- Tires to fit new wheels.


I miss or misstate anything?

I dont know for sure but maby you could use wheel adapters for the rear so you dont need to change the axe. It might change the backspacing by an inch or two but you are not turning those tires like the front. I bought some Arreo raceing rims for $45 a piece with a 3" back spacing. It should of been 4.5" as I did the math wrong but they still work. They just stick out of the wheel wells somewhat. Just an idea to save you some time and money until you can change the axle...

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~Nic

It's an investment, but a good one.

I'd suggest that "associated parts" include a dual-circuit master cylinder and appropriate proportioning valve and plumbing.

The wheels and many of the hard parts don't have to be new. The 4.5" bolt pattern is common to a lot of Fords, Jeeps, and the like. The center register and the offset/backspace make it a little more complicated, but there are still a lot of wheels out there that can work.

The American '64 Valiant non-station wagon rear wheel opening covers the top of the tire, so you do have to watch offset back there more than on some cars. For comparison, look at the radiused openings on the station wagon or Australian AP5.






My '64 uses the late A-body disks up front, and 15X7 rims with +13mm offset all around.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

You will also need the disc brake master cylinder, front hard lines since the 64 has a single chamber master cylinder, the disc brake proportioning valve, the disk brake hoses (might as well replace the one that goes to the rear axle while you are in the mode), a front suspension rebuild kit (might as well since you will have the front suspension halfway apart anyway).

I should have linked this before.... Just to give you some ideas.....

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=58590

Welcome. Read the post you see by clicking this red text.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

These replies are great! Thank you guys so much. So I have to admit with everything I have done on modern cars DIY guides have been a huge help. Is there a resource for diys on old valiants I can reference.