Hello,I'm new on this forum as a member, but reading it from a long time.
I live in Spain, and have owned several SL6 from 1989. I have been using them as daily drivers with good results. For me, they are better than a modern car, as they normally don't have serious repairs and it is simple and cheap.
I will expect not only get info from this forum, also if possible, contribute with some mechanical situations I have seen on those years.
Thank you in advance for all of you writing this forum dedicated to the venerable SL6.

Now my question.
Could be the wrong carburetor to be the culprit of this noise?
Idle, no noise
Cruising steady, no noise.
Begin a light uphill and I don't move the gas pedal, and the noise begins. It is like a tappet noise or a rod noise, but I have check those and not find.
When the noise begins, if I give more gas, it disapear, or take out the foot from the gas,it disapear after 2-3 seconds.
If I go with quick acceleration, no noise.
Then, I think, it must be preignition or detonation due a too lean carburetor.
Could be it?
Thank you in advance.

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You need a SL6 to smile.

Have you had a timing light on the car yet? Maybe it's a timing or vacumm issue right at that sour spot where it pings.

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ski

....and hello and welcome!

ski

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ski

Thanks Ski.
yes I have a timming light and I have trying +/- 5 degree from 0º (the book specs) without any change.
About the vacuum advance, I have check it with the car stoped, and aparently it works as the shop manual specifies.
Also I have check the harmonic balancer marks don't slide. It's ok.
Really, as Ski says, it appears to be vacuum advance problem, but I don't know how to test it when the car moving.


Regards and thanks,

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You need a SL6 to smile.

Try disconnecting and pluging the vacumm advance line from the distributer. Then road test.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Thanks Charlie_S. I will try this after eat and report.
Regards.

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You need a SL6 to smile.

Hi. I have disconected the vac hose and cap it.
I have been driving for two hours and "no claccking".
Only I have a minor noise in one occasion when cold and one occasion when hot, boh times when leave the gas pedal suddenly after a uphill.
Yes, the major culprit is the vacum advance.
Prehaps the spring is tired.
But perhaps also could have distributor weights springs a little faded, and when suddenly leave the pedal, they take some time to recover his position.
I will check those also.
Thank you help to point me in that direcction.
Also, I must to say the engine is again as smoth as some time ago.

Very thanks for all.
...and sorry for my english..

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You need a SL6 to smile.

It sounds like you have too much vacumm advance. Might be the wrong "pod". Hook a hand vacumm pump to the vacumm advance pod, and make a chart showing how much timing you have at different vacumm levels. This can be done without driving, just with engine idleing.

PS. The vacumm advance hose is connected to the "ported" vacumm connection on the carb, correct?

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

There is nothing wrong with your English. It is better then some who post with no puntuation, and everything running together. Certainly better then my Spanish, which is nonexistant.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Hi CharrlieS. Yes it must be.
It's in the correct ported vacuum. I will follow your direcction to a vacuum chart. But, could be the carburetor has the ported vacuum in a different position as it must be? ...I mean in the venturi location, not the fitting.
The original carburetor was a broken ear, and I get the apparently closest to this, but it isn't exactly the same. The engine is 1969-70 with the Holley 1920, and I get also the Holley 1920, but for1973-74(I would do a search if necesary) .
The original had a two stage economizer and the one I installed has a three stage.
Do you know the rpm point to start opening the ported vacuum?

Have a nice day.

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You need a SL6 to smile.

Another idea: in my experience newer carbs have smaller fuel nozzle (to improve emissions). I replaced a 69 carb with a 73 one. Swap the nozzles between the 69 and the 73 (check before the sizes, to get sure the 69 carb has a larger one. Nozzle size is stamped in the nozzle, dont recall now the nomenclature, but you can find it here or in the internet, same Holley nozzles are used in many Holley carbs). This might help, but will increase fuel consumption (or bring it back to how was before the swap)

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/6 Dodge Charger 69
...there's nothing like using the "Search" link above to solve most of your problems...

That's a "Jet"....

Sadly, most 1960's Holley 1920's were jetted lean from the factory.... 1973 is jetted more rich than the previous versions, and from field testing the 1973 Holley 1920 is still a bit lean, so most people increase the size to #58's...



Per the original post, I agree the vacuum advance is to much and you are getting too much advance and noting "ping" or detonation, please post map, we might be able to advise a better vacuum advance pod for you driving needs...

Ok, thank you for your suggetions.
I will do a vac advance map, and check the main jet of this carb,
Also, I got an advance spings set, but I haven't tested yet.
By now, I'm driving vith the vac advance disconected, and only a slight flat from stop but very little.

Have a nice day.

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You need a SL6 to smile.

Hello again.
I finally got the time to do more research.
I have check the advance curve with the shop manual and i see some irregulariry with the centrifugal advance.
I have removed the distributor and see the soft advance spring couldn't maintain the weights in the initial position. I think it must be cause of the inaccurate mechanical advance and then, the ping I had at middle rpm range.
I have been driven with the vac advance disconected as you sugested some weeks ago with no problem.
I have trying to get locally some spring similar to it but no luck by now.
The distributor nº is 2875826. Checking with the manual, it must be 2875366, but I don't know what's the difference.
Some one konws where I can get this original advance spring?

Thank you in advance.

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You need a SL6 to smile.

Have you checked your timing chain for wear? Can you turn the crank a little in each direction without any movement in the distributor rotor? If so, how many degrees on the harmonic balancer marks?

Olaf

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Aspenized