So today I noticed what I thought was water in my battery tray, after looking closer I see the paint peeling off the tray and overflow on the battery lid. This is a recent issue nothing happened after I replaced the altntr with the 40a squareback, even have a new battery. I looked at the regulator and its the old black box but when I opened it theres a very small circuit board inside. What the heck is this? Its like an empty chamber with a mini board inside. I haven't had any issues like this until at least today. Is the regulator junk? I have a mopar electric regulator but not sure how to do wire it in. I appreciate any guidance with this I don't want to blow the battery. Thanks for any help.

You have an electronic regulator in an original-style case. Wells made regulators like that years ago and maybe still do. You have the single field wire I take it?

What's your charging voltage?

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Joshua

Yes to the single the other is grounded and before hooking it up I noticed the second field was not plugged in. Havent checked voltage will do in the morning. I did find in my box of goodies 2 Chrome boxes with 2 pin triangular plugs, 1 #P6H the other P1Q, and a smaller black and blue box #'s 914 and 344 the last also has a big number 6 on it, with 3 pin oval plugs. The chromes have 3 mounting holes and the black/blue have 1. Are these usable. Forgot its on a 67 with no added electronics or electronic dist. PS the regulator looks kinda cheap Ill check if theres a name on it in the morning. Thanks Josh.

Provided you have correctly wired up regulator to alternator & alternator has no internal faults, the other common cause of over charging is voltage drop in charging and ignition circuits usually caused by corroded bulk head connectors, corroded battery connections and or faulty grounding to block from battery, voltage regulator, ESC if equipped and alternator.

First check battery voltage reading. Clean battery connections and ground to block, and retest to see if voltage drop has been corrected.

If .1 to .2 v drop is still present:

Continue testing for voltage drop by placing black VOM probe on negative battery terminal and red probe on circuits various connectors working out from battery to Ignition switch than out to voltage regulator with ignition in on position.

Whatever you find for differences between battery voltage and circuit voltage is the amount of voltage drop in that circuit. That difference causes the regulator to command alternator to increase its voltage output by the same amount. In other words if you find a 1.5 voltage drop reading that would be added to say a normal battery voltage reading of 13.6v to cause alternator to produce 15.1volt.

You may have to install a secondary grounding loop of #10 gage conductor that connects base of voltage regulator, ECU, alternator case, back to battery negative terminal which will eliminate all voltage drop in ground side of circuit. Also make sure the grounding conductor between head and bulkhead is in place and landed with clean good conducting connections.

I had the same problem with my 67 ragtop several years ago. Performing the above solved the over charge problem.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

More info on this, please. What alternator did you buy, from where? What kind of alternator was on the car before, and what prompted the replacement?
It's probably a Wells VR-706 or similar, as Josh describes. I've not had long-term good results from these. If yours is working, it's working, though that's in doubt given the battery overcharge symptoms.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Sorry Dan been busy. The original 67 slant altern was very lose and starting to make squealing sounds. I replaced it with the squareback 40 amp from 440 source the regulator I thought was original only looked it on the outside, inside was a chip and a mini circuit board. With the replacement alt and the first v reg, everything was working fine. This started with a drive to a car show in Benton city about 40 mins away. When I got home I had noticed what I thought was water from a sprinkler in the tray but realized it was the acid and saw trails of it dripping on the batt case. no signs or indications of anything wrong prior, it has been running good before and since. As a precaution I did replace the volt reg with the newer wells unit. No change better or worse. I hope this answers some questions.

Ya done got rooked on a "remanufactured" alternator -- they are notorious for being junk. For that money you could've had brand new.
Not much a fan of those, but if it's behaving the same with both regulators it suggests a wiring fault. Probably high resistance between ignition switch and regulator, so regulator sees lower than line voltage, so tells the alternator to crank out the power until the reg sees what it's looking for, but since the reg sees lower than line voltage, it doesn't see what it's looking for until line voltage is too high. Which style of regulator are you running, the '69-down type (and you had to ground one of the new alternator's field terminals) or the '70-up type (and you had to modify the wiring to accommodate it)?

Put the engine at a fast idle (about 1000 rpm) and put a voltmeter across the battery. What do you see with no electricals switched on except the engine? Now put the high beams on and put the voltmeter across the battery, what then?

(And yes, running a ground loop of 14ga wire—10ga won't hurt but is not necessary—from alternator housing to voltage regulator base and voltage regulator base to battery negative terminal is a very fine idea)

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I'll get some numbers after work tonight

Regulator is 69 under type, I do have the extra field grounded to the base on the alt and the numbers are 15.25 no load 14.90 load.

That's definitely too high. Try this: put together a length of № 16 wire with a crocodile clip at each end (or just strip and twist the ends if you don't have easy access to crocodile clips). Start the engine. Attach this new wire from battery + to the regulator's IGN terminal. Recheck your voltage numbers across the battery like before. What are they now?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Not a good way to start the day I plugged into the field accidently-this box wasn't labeled and now no lights at all or probably anything else electrical.