with modern radial tires and with the intention being drag race only,,

are there specific deviations from the factory alignment specifications?

per my 1968 FSM

camber left,, +1/4 to + 3/4 degree, plus 1/2 degree perferred
camber right,, 0 to + 1/2 degree, plus 1/4 degree perferred

Caster manual 0 to -1 degree
Caster power + 1/4 degree to plus 1 1/4 degree

height 1/3/8 +/- 1/8

Steering axis inclination,, 7 1/2 degree

toe in 3/32 inch to 5/32 inch 1/8 inch prefered

toe out at 20 degrees 17.5 degree

thanks

John,
Lou gave me some readings to use on my Valiant. If no one responds i will try and find them for you.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Looking at those specs I am going to say you want a lot more caster in it.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

For drag racing you want zero dynamic toe which means the factory setting or a little less. The tires should also be straight up and down so zero camber on both sides with the driver on board. The factory camber settings account for road crown and ensure under steer. Positive caster helps center the steering and adds stability, but increases steering effort. With narrow tires and drag strip use go for maximum positive caster, but make sure it's equal from side-to-side. Steering axis inclination and Ackerman geometry are fixed. Those measuments are given to aid in checking for bent parts.

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Joshua

Will resp more soon... Quickly: +1 to +4 caster, -0.5 camber, 0-1/16" toe.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

the car will be drag only for the next few years, but not running narrow tires on the front,, they are 215x60x16 on a 7 inch wide wheel on the front..

got an appointment set,,

thanks for the info

Assuming you have stock A-arms and upper control arm bushings, you can likely get +1 or +2 caster, which will be fine. Higher numbers will get you more high speed centering, which is nice but not needed unless you plan to go over 100 MPH in the 1/4. -0.25 to -0.75 camber will work well, as will the toe setting range above. They doe toe in degrees these days, but I can't recall/do the conversion at the moment. "Zero or a skosh toe-in" is what you want.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

73 and up upper control arms and the Moog "problem solver' bushings,,\

appointment got moved to 9:00 AM Thursday..


Josh and Lou and Rick and all,

thanks.

Great. With problem solver bushings installed one in and one out, you can get somewhere between +3 to 6 deg caster.

I do NOT recommend more than 4-5 deg as the high speed handling can get "spooky", which is Rick Ehrenberg's word for it I agree from my experience with one car at 6 deg.

I run +4 deg on the 64 Dart...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

that's what I did,,

How did the alignment go John?

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Had a 9:00 AM appointment set at a local Firestone shop,,

They had done an alignment on my wife's car, work areas clean and organized, local to the neighborhood,,

the Alignment Tech informed me to not wait on the car,, it could take him an entire day to align the 68 Barracuda,, I told him that there was nothing 'stuck' on the front end of the car,,tire rod ends, ball joints, control arms,, everything was new,, he again stated it could take a complete day to align the front end.

So I left, with the car. I have an appointment set for next Thursday, June 30 at Naylor's in Morresvile a shop recommended by WV,, I had the front end aligned on the D150 at Naylor's and they did a fine job.

Good call!

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I would not take a car to a big chain place for an alignment. I also never buy Firestone tires or deal with that company in any of its forms.

A small local shop is almost always your best bet, if it comes recommended.

Best,

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988