HI, in another post, i mentioned that my new HEI system burned the ignition module after some use.. I got some advice here, but non that I could follow by myself.
I took the truck to an auto electrician and he installed not one, not two, buy three ceramic ballasts....?????

It no longer burns the module, but I was not convinced as to the need of so many ballasts. He said that he had done this repair to many cars and never had any issues, other than that, there was no explanation.

I am not complaining, truck runs great, but I did notice a small change..
(runs a pit better without the ballasts)
Was this just a quick fix???
Should I be worried about this?
This kind of goes against everything I have read on this forum and other places....

Thank you guys....

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Slant power!!!
At least I try...

HEI does not require or benefit from a ballast...and certainly not from three of them.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I would wholeheartedly agree with you if the HEI module in question were known to be designed and built correctly.

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Joshua

An HEI module does not call for a ballast -- full stop. Whether the module is a good one or not is a different question.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

[HEI does not require or benefit from a ballast...and certainly not from three of them.]

Im scared to take them off,,, the two that went bad were bought at Oreilly's, a $22.00 one, and the second one was around $36......


He said that my alternator feeds above 14.something volts,, and that the three ballasts keep the juice at around 13 volts..
That's the most I was able to get form him.

I went on a 25 hour road trip with no problems, above 21 mpg. not bad for D150 with no OD...
that was a month ago, and it still has not failed..

Are the modules from Oreilly's considered crap??
the one that is on there now that has not gone bad is one I bought from a mom and pops auto parts store in Mexico,,, lord knows what brand,,, it was very inexpensive, around $5.OO...

Second question,, HEI does not require a ballast,, ok, understood. But, do they require any type of voltage, or current regulator??
Could it be that my power source was too high, and this is the down and dirty way this particular guy chose to solve the problem??

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Slant power!!!
At least I try...

HEI modules are designed to actively control ignition coil current. They are not simple on/off devices. On/off style coil switching whether by points or simple electronic switching requires a passive means of current control such as a resistance wire, ballast resistor or a coil not requiring reduced voltage.

Electric current passing through a resistance generates heat. More voltage generally means more current in a simple resistive circuit.

Without seeing the coil current wave form it's impossible to know if the HEI modules you received were limiting the coil current or not. If not they could quickly overheat and fail. Who knows what kind of design simplification may have been done in the name of profit at the cost of reliability.

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Joshua

wow,, I actually understood all that!!

And I agree...

So,, leave it as is??
or eliminate the ballasts??
maybe, better yet, find another electrical shop...

_________________
Slant power!!!
At least I try...

I think Joshie offered a great explanation of the HEI module.... Would a swap to a coil that's known to be compatable be worthwhile? I'm running a pertronix module and coil and it's been fine,but even with a heatsink it does get warm to touch... Pretty sure it's a .3 ohm could but I can't be certain on that one.

Get a volt meter. With your car running, check the voltage across the battery. It will should read 14 volts give or take a volt. Next, rev the engine, voltage may increase slightly but should not really go above 15 volts. If reving the engine causes the voltage to go over 15 (I have seen bad ones go over 24 volts) then your voltage regulator is shot and that is what is burning out your modules. Over voltage will kill electronics very quickly. The alternator should put out around 14 volts (I forget the exact number).
The regulator on my 87 Dodge pickup went out and fried the ignition computer, burned out all the dash lights and the parking lights. It also ruined my battery (I was on a 5 hour road trip).
I agree that the extra resistors is just a work-around that covers a more pressing problem.
GM never used them, you shouldn't need them either.

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

Greetings,
resistors wired end to end (series) is additive, and side by side (parallel) will reduce total resistance. Why are 3 necessary?

I would agree with the overvoltage theory as to the actual cause of the module failure. And also the inexpensive module as potential time bomb.

Heat is the enemy for these modules. Mine is mounted on a copper plate (with cooling fins) computer server heat sink, along with a spare module. I'm prepared for the potential failure of the module should it occur.

http://s1341.photobucket.com/user/neils ... e.jpg.html

I am also prepared with a spare module.

The module is mounted on a GM Safari 1998 bracket with cooling fins and heat sink.

I will check with a volt meter.

Thank you..

Off to find a volt meter......

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Slant power!!!
At least I try...

If you are using the 4 pin module, did you remove the plastic pin on the back of the module? If not the module will not sit flat to the heat sink, and will over heat.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

yes, I removed the two pins. Thank you.

I am pretty sure its going to be an irregular amount of voltage..
this truck has had electrical issues in the past.

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Slant power!!!
At least I try...