Got the supersix setup (Carter BBD) for my 1973. Problem is the carburetor never had the tag on it to identify the model. Not sure what year it is. Is there another way to tell? It's definately not a 318 carb.

Found all the specs on the website for tuning the carb...just having problems with it idling...Got it to run a few times at 750rpm but ran real rough. Usually it just wants run rough or completely die below 1000rpm.

I'm guessing I need to check over the carb as I have not done so. Any special tools I need? Carburetor specific tools or otherwise?

Also does anyone recommend a a rebuild kit for my BBD?
Found this one here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carter-2BBL-BBD ... js&vxp=mtr

Thanks

_________________
exoJjL

Get a new kit from www.daytonaparts.com , which will have the better inlet needle/seat design than the not-very-good Echlin kit you linked. However, new kits (from Daytona or anyone else) do not have the stamped-cardboard float tool you need, they just have a useless paper-strip ruler. So once you ID the carburetor, you might also want to get an old kit to raid the float tool from.

To help us ID your carb, post photographs of it.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Carb is currently on the intake. Hope these are enough. If more is needed please let me know. The letters below the throttle shaft (carb off engine) are a little blurry if you need them I can get them.
Thanks

_________________
exoJjL

Fetch a kit(s) for a '79 Aspen with 225-2bbl (BBD) and you'll be fine. Looks like you may want to move your fuel filter, too.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Interesting. That carb has at least the base of a slant six BBD (you can tell by the long and curved PCV valve tube) but the choke thermostat linkage piece of a 318 BBD (the eyelet is positioned to be pulled straight down [318] rather than backwards and down [225]).

THIS THREAD contains pictures and instructions on how to build a simple adapter to mate a 318 BBD to the choke thermostat for a 225. Even simpler would be to find a 225 BBD and swap that one linkage piece over, but good luck finding one.

That's my 2¢.

I also see you don't have a choke thermostat. You need one. Rather than track down a factory piece, I strongly recommend you instal an electric choke thermostat conversion kit from carbsonly.

For 77 78 cars and most trucks took carter number 14-1045. Carb number for trucks 8214s 8215s and all 79s got different number , carter number 14-1079. Here is the 14-1045 http://quadrajetparts.com/choke-shaft-l ... -2021.html

Choke part am i holding has 14-1045 stamped in on back side. Looks like the one in link.

Holy crap! I can't believe anyone sells that part new. Unfortunately, that is the 318 carb linkage piece.

http://quadrajetparts.com/choke-shaft-l ... 924796dfa2 14-992 is that the slant one

That is very interesting because I got the carb with the entire super6 setup although this doesn't guarantee that it is a 225 BBD. However, the choke valve does not have holes in it like the 318 BBD. Maybe it was a 225 BBD to begin with and pieced together from both another 225 and 318 BBD?

Also, about the choke thermostat, I thought all it did was hasten the function of the choke and figured I could get away without it...am I mistaken?

I do have the fuel line from the carb over the valve covers and down behind the alternator. It's tied back close to the radiator hose for now as I was checking valve clearance. Thanks Dan for the informative thread(s) on both these.

_________________
exoJjL

Two reasons:

1. Cold start, choke thermostat bimetal spring closes choke butterfly holding it closed until engine lights off at which time a second vacuum activated device opens butter fly about 1/4" enabling engine to run. As engine warms to operating temperature bimetal opens butterfly fully backing off A/F rich start mixture to leaner run mixture.

2. Warm engine start, bimetal spring holds choke butterfly open preventing problems associated with rich mixture improving drivability and fuel economy.


The alternative to exhaust heated thermostat bimetal stove spring is an electrically heated spring, or in other words an electric choke when one can't marry up the various bits & pieces to resurrect a Frankenstein'ed retro fit carb.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Sure, anything is possible at this late date, especially if that carb has been through a commercial "rebuilding" process and resold at a parts store or online. That piece of the choke linkage can be removed by removing that one small bolt and can be swapped between 318 and 225 model BBDs.
No, it controls the operation of the choke as WJAJR explained. No thermostat, no choke when the engine is cold. No thermostat, no guarantee the choke stays open when the car is warm and driving. I have driven cars with no choke thermostat installed and they are a PITA to drive unless the choke gets wired permanently open. A flopping choke will cause all kinds of problems.
Yes, especially if you live in the northwestern part of the State of Washington. I live in Tacoma and can guarantee that it definitely gets cold enough here for a street driven vehicle to need a choke. The only time you wouldn't need a choke is if you lived in an area with 150-190 degree ambient temperature or if you have completely disabled and removed the choke to improve air flow through the carb for racing. Otherwise you will need to sit in the car when it is cold an maually feather the accelerator pump to keep enough gas ging to the motor for the engine to run. Annoying and a waste of gas.

A properly set up carb with a properly functionig and adjusted choke should be as simple as getting in the car, pumping the gas pedal ONCE (maybe twice in the winter) to set the choke and squirt a bit of extra fuel in the intake, maybe holding the pedal about 1/3 of the way open, and turning the key to start. If your starting procedure deviates from that process very much then something is wrong or you are running a very non-stock engine.

The point is that you really do need a properly functioning choke thermostat.

Thanks wjajr, & Reed for explaining this. Makes perfect sense. #1232 electric choke kit is the one I need.

What do you guys think of this? float level tool and another here

_________________
exoJjL

Well if the #14-1045 is the 318 linkage then I've got the correct sl6 one on my carburetor then. Seeing as mine looks more like the #14-992

_________________
exoJjL