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Thhttp://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=59931e carb in this link looks like it has choke lever 14-1079. After every thing lines up that spring clip rotates counter clockwise and snaps into place. The choke lever 14-1045 needs spring clip that rotates clock wise. Those clips come in left and right types.

Looks like I'm running the short carb throttle to intake gasket...I need the thick carb gasket.

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exoJjL

Okay, I don't need the thicker "Carb base gasket" since I'm not running the Holley 2280. I'll make the 318 choke linkage adapter to fit and work my sl6 with the new choke kit #1232 from www.Carbsonly.com. I had to drill (5mm then 5/16) and tap 1/4" - 20 threads and (used 1/2" length) bolt. For the choke stove on the exhaust (bolt side closest to passenger side. The original thread size on the choke stove appeared to be about 6mm (min. caliper read). I find the metric system much easier to use for initial measurements.
Additionally 6.45mm (off the top of my head) is precisely 1/4". This worked and #1232 appears to mount just fine.

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exoJjL

Yeah, you do. Unless you want to deal with tiresome hot start/hot idle problems and difficult-to-fix choke pushrod binding issues.

(There are factual errors in that Super Six article)

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan- please let me know what those errors are. I thought I got most of the info right when I wrote that article 14 years ago (boy, do I feel old now). The last thing I want to do is be responsible for spreading bad info.

I'm sorry, I overstated the case a little in my haste. There's not much to pick on, just that the 2280 was not factory equipment on the Super Six, only ever the BBD was. The 2280 was an aftermarket replacement carb heavily and successfully marketed by Holley in a wide range of varieties, which is why they fit so well and look like they belong (one doesn't see adaptations and kludges to make them fit/work).

The thick-gasket thing isn't an error, it's a slight misunderstanding. Some variants of the 2280 (as well as the Bendix-Stromberg WW3) physically require the thick base gasket because without it the throttle linkage can hit certain intake manifold castings, as it sez in the article, but the thick gasket was original equipment under the original Carter BBDs for heat-control reasons, and the choke and kickdown linkage were designed for the resultant carburetor height.

I think the article might benefit from an update to incorporate new info. Electric choke № 1232...fuel line mod…kickdown options now the factory parts have grown difficult and costly…warnings about the Chinese knockoff BBD carbs, maybe discussion of some options like the Motorcraft 2100, maybe add in the parallel 2bbl how-to and, with permission, the photo documentation of same…that kind of thing.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks for the clarification. I also think that that article could use an update for the same reasons you mention. The two barrel carburetor is the best system for most street driven slants, so it makes sense that the article discussing it should be current with modern options.

These days, given the cost and scarcity of decent carbs, kickdown linkages, and air cleaners, I would skip the factory kickdown altogether and jump straight to a cable style that can be purchased on eBay for under $30. For carburetors it is almost to the point of being preferable to run a small four barrel that can still be purchased new and lock out the secondaries.

I will add a Super Six article revision to my list of things to try and do sometime in the near future. I actually just bought a huge lot of carburetors that included a couple Holley 5200s, three Rochester 2jets (though these might be a tri-power set, I need to verify), a BUNCH of Holley 4360s in various states of disrepair, and some other Carter and Holley four barrels. And I have a Lokar kickdown linkage sitting on my workbench waiting to be used. I need to get an engine and trans mated together for some mockup ictures, but I have the materials to do good documentation of installation of various carbs and cable-style kickdown. I may do that when i prep the new engine for introduction into my brother's Duster.

I still wish we would get some new articles on home-building fuel rails and installation of injector bungs in manifolds. Doc's articles are unfinished and some of the text has been corrupted and isn't readable (at least on my end).

Sorry for the thread hijack. If anyone wants to PM me with suggestions about a Super Six article revamp, please feel free to do so. For example, I have never run a Holley/Motorcraft 2100, so I could use info about that.

Now back to the normal direction of this thread.

No problem Reed. I already took the thread from identifying the carb to rebuilding it.

Thanks for everyone's input as well. Sorry if I've been a pain...this is going to be my first carburetor rebuild. Kit came from Daytonaparts. Doing the rebuild today (Sat.)
Rebuilt the carb most of the was just wondering if I did the needle inlet correctly. It's got a rubber seal end and I put the rubber end going into the carb touching the float tab.

Edit: crap, come to think of that's wrong right? Since the rubber end should be going out to create a seal to prevent the fuel from coming in when the float is up...?

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exoJjL