You can do it on '63-'66 cars too! I've done it! It was a MASSIVE PITA to actually get the new pump in (new pump was slightly taller.... the one you gave me), but once it was in, DONE!

It takes time, patience, and a few curse-words, but all I did was remove the oil filter and passenger side engine mount. Then I used a pry bar and brute strength to get it done!

~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

found this thread while looking for info on replacing the seal under the oil pump top cover that is held on with 5 bolts. Can anyone help me with the part number or source for the seal? Luckilly the engine is out of the car! )

Much Thanks!!

Send me a PM with your address, and I will mail you the seal. It is a large "O" ring, BTW. I have several extras.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I was able to do this without removing radiator on 1975 D100
while (slowly!) doing the clutch (still on it, very slowly).

Used one of those adjustable cross braces to hold the rear of the
engine up (was only trying to drop oil pan when I started to think
about the oil pump - truck probably has 180k) with bolt after
removing bell housing.

Then used floor jack with ~18inch 6x6 vertical atop it to jack
lowest rear corner (passenger side) of engine. Thereupon
I noticed the reason for removing radiator - the fan blades
got awful close! But wait! I realized that with the cross brace there,
I could probably level the engine out and address that problem
by jacking front of engine - used a second jack with similar
6x6 post - and SLOWLY, back and forth, inch by inch, step by
step (maybe 3-4 steps) got the passenger side of the engine to pop
off of the mount bolt - and voila! plenty of clearance to remove
the oil pump!

Of course, wait til I get it back down without gashing the radiator -
if I have success and there is interest, I'll post a few pics.

(also, I have the whole truck up and level on four stands, exhaust,
bell housing, tranny out)

DCello

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You mean there's a Slant Six FORUM!?

I'll post pics later - not sure if I would have tried it without the brace supporting the engine rear from above though....

DCello[/img]

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You mean there's a Slant Six FORUM!?

Does this work with an automatic transmission equipped car?

Keep an eye on the tranny cooler lines so you don't kink them, linkage should not be a major hassle as I did that other one with the Z-bar installed....You can always detach the cooler lines from their clips and use a block of wood on the drivers side between the pan rail and fender to prevent the motor from moving more than you really need it too...a second set of eyes can help out while under going the procedure...you won't move much for the stock pump, but may need a little more room for the melling (you can also save a little room by installing the cover plate, ring and gasket after the pump is installed.....)

Thanks. I will cross my fingers that either (a) I don't have to do this, or (b) it goes easy.

Would there be any reason that one couldn't use ramps for the front end rather than stands??? Seems like we will need to be laying where the stands would be?

I put my stands on the subframe rails back by the passenger compartment... that way if I have to remove the tire to get more room you have all that room to work under (and if you have to have another hand in there...

Ramps would probably work, but mind the need for safety....

Well we got the pump off surprisingly eassy....followed the instructions above and had it out in no time.

And at first we cheered. ..the gear had been spun off......then I found the shaft was locked up.


Took the pump apart and found metal squished in the pump. We got bummed real quick.

I was able to peel the big piece off the oil pump part....it'd nonmagnetic so I assume it can only be bearing material.....

It is time to drop the oil pan or better yet, pull the engine, for a review & "freshen-up"...
DD

Man, I hate it when that happens.

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

Well me and my son have been mulling those questions.....

Having this one redone (if its not too far trashed) would be the preferred route.....and hopefully the least expensive...maybe go a little oversized and tweak it a little.....?

A cousin of mine has a 1978 318 out of a truck that has 109k miles on it.....he says it ran good before getting yanked (the truck was being parted out)...that would mean a bunch of rework to exhaust, maybe trans, etc....not sure what trans we have in the Volare and if it will bolt right up to the 318 or not? He says we can have it free.....of course to adapt it in wont be free. Tyler is a new driver.....turning 17 in a couple weeks. He just got his first job....he is a responsible kiddo so far.....but hard to get in much trouble with a stock slant 6...plus the issue of gas mileage....if he cant afford to drive the car with the v8 in it, that will be rough......it will be his daily driver. I know the 78 318 wasnt a powerhouse.....but moreso than the /6. And we dont really know what shape the free engine is in other than "it ran fine". So did our current engine when we bought it two months ago....LOL

Not sure which would be less pricey at the end of the day.

A reman engine from advanced auto is $2,000. I suppose a rebuild will be just as pricey?

There is also the issue of emissions inspections.....where we live its a visual.....in other words if the car is supposed to have a cat and airpump and all the emmssions crap it wont pass without it.....that is easier to keep in place with the current engine.

I am so bummed out.....I thought that the slant 6 was "bulletproof".....I was hoping that we could have smooth sailing at least until next spring.....so much for that huh? LOL

It sounded fine before, and that is why I was surprised when we opened up the first filter.....that is a lot of metal in there......we were gonna throw the new pump on and see what happens, but that's just kicking the can down the road.....there has to be a spun bearing......and it will grenade, and I dont want it to happen to the kid in the middle of winter etc.

Sorry for the long post.....just at a crossroads and I dont do well with crossroads....LOL