The bottom of the bowl cover assembly on my carb is warped. I read this was sort of common on these carbs. With gasket in, I can see the top of the float pin retainer. About 1/16" gap without gasket.
Thought JB weld might work...but gasoline might break it down over time which could cause leaks. I read a few other posts on here, one saying taking the warped surface to stationary belt sander...the other using a welder and a file.
Don't got the sander but got a mig welder. I think carefully leveling and filling it in with the welder and file would work. What do you guys think? Anyone fix this issue before? Also, could the carbs be made of aluminum, not steel, and why they don't rust but warp?
I need to know this..I don't have flux core aluminum wire!

_________________
exoJjL

If the warpage was only a few thousandths, then yeah you can lightly sand on a flat surface to regain a somewhat flat part. But since the warpage is as extreme as your describing, there really isn't anything you can do to successfully fix it except replace the top cover with a better one or replace the carb altogether. Epoxy is a hit and miss solution, and most of all the carbs made for engines are pot metal, even Holley's, and don't weld good or completely disintegrate when you try, so I wouldn't consider that as an option.

_________________
There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

(asked from the clueless category)

Would brazing be an option?

File flat, stack up gaskets to make up for material removed. Other wise the metering rods might be too low. https://buy.walkerproducts.com/carburet ... nents.html

Better yet 8087s 1977 federal auto. Has choke linkage, and idle screws http://www.ebay.com/itm/232017020604?_t ... EBIDX%3AIT

Brazing as in heat? I have thought about this...Use a MAPP gas torch might work but gotta be careful because to much then it might turn the screw holes to much...but heating and carefully tapping with a hammer, might work.
Sanding the bottom of the fuel bowl cover assembly might work but the problem is that it reduces the overall height of the Pump assembly and the Piston Assembly. It will bring the pump plunger closer to the bowl which will increase spring tension. The metering rod piston Assembly may need adjustment from 0.035-.040. These are extremely minute adjustments and changes.
It's mine.

_________________
exoJjL

Thanks, matv91, walker has the 3/64" gasket which could over correct the 1/16" warpage gap I have. As I previously mentioned I thought sanding would lower deck height, lowering the metering rods...as well as the accelerator pump. This may require a main jet(s) size increase.

_________________
exoJjL

Thought the carb was aluminum maybe? Took a dozen Neodymium magnets to it and they don't stick. What's Pot metal? is that Tin? A Tin mixture?

_________________
exoJjL

I think its really just a generic term they have always been called to mean the worst junk they can sweep up off the floor to cast them with. LOL But no, its not aluminum but probably some type of tin mixture. They don't have any good metallurgical properties that lets them be welded with success though. These aren't expensive carbs, so anything you do that isn't going to produce a successful attempt is really a waste of time and effort. A guy in the parts for sale section here has a whole basketful of them for free if you need some better cores to start with.
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=60041

_________________
There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

I believe these carb.s are aluminum.

Pot metal is the cast crud they make hood emblems, doors handles, mirror posts, and such out of.
Very porous and would not make a good container for liquid such as gas.

A while ago,
I read about heating warped parts (specifically these carb.s) in an oven and then putting some weight on the top to flatten it again.

I would look into this before changing the surface or thickness of your parts...

Pot metal is usually (mostly) zinc

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

The main body and airhorn are not made out of aluminum, it is made out of zamak, a/k/a zinc die cast, sometimes called pot metal. Extra, extra, read all about it. MAPP gas torch = puddle of melted carburetor.

The throttle body is aluminum, but that's not relevant now.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Dan, do you know of any way to repair a carb that is warped? (well how to do it for less than the king's ransom, if it can be done at all?)

I don't try. If a carb is warped badly enough that its two warped castings can't be sealed with a gasket or two, I start with a different carburetor.

If I wanted to give it a serious try, I might have a go with some kind of heavy-duty industrial epoxy compound like one of Belzona's. See threads here, here, here, here, and here.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Try laying warped pieces on a hard flat surface ,like a steel plate or anvil, bow side up and firmly tapping at high point . It may take enough bend out that the pieces may match close enough to seal with the gaskets.

If the carb part is junk otherwise it may be worth a try.

It will probably at least have some stress cracks at any tabs or break if needs to much straitening

I have had some luck with this method.