That is very odd. If your timing chain skipped one (or more) teeth then the cam might very well be so far out of time with the crank that the engine will not run.

If you have spark then I think it is time to open up the engine at least far enough to inspect the timing components.

_________________
Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

This is what I'm afraid of because I don't have the right tools and at the moment I don't have the garage space because I picked up a 71 Dart /6 a couple of months ago that isn't going anywhere soon.

Thanks for your help.

_________________
my first 6 1973 Plymouth Duster

It is a 73, so it has mechanical valves.

I guess the time chain is sloppy (makes sense if you dont know when it was changed). But still could you check how much you can move the crankshaft without moving the distributor (stretched chain test)?. My car had a bolt in the harmonic balancer connecting it to the crankshaft (necessary only for installation, the harmonic balancer fits by interference), some cars have it so you can fit a dice and a breaker bar (or big ratchet) and turn the engine easier than with the fan (if you remove all spark plugs will be easier too). *EDIT: Sorry, you already did this, 5 degrees is not important...)

After that, removing the valve cover will allow you to see the valvetrain, and the rocker arms. Not sure if you can detect a jump in the chain looking for Top Dead Center TDC and then measuring when rockers in Cilinder #1 touch the valves to have an idea of when they open and close compared with the engine rotation.

Also, you can remove the time chain cover and check if the camshaft and crankshaft sprockets are on time (they should have a notch each that align at some point when rotating the engine, if the engine is in time. You will need a vibration damper extractor tool (3 arm, dont use the 2 arm extractor), and everything else can be disassembled using standard tools. One of the time chain cover bolts hole goes to a refrigerant channel, so draining the radiator (and removing it) will help, you also dont want water getting into the carter (lower part of the time chain chamber. Be careful with the oil slinger in the crankshaft, see how it is installed and remove it. You need to put it back in the same way it was installed before.

If the chain jumped, you can replace it. If not, you can close back everything (hoping seals are ok). You will need sealant (be specially careful sealing the area were the chain cover bolts to the bottom pan), and a bolt to press back the vibration damper in position.

Please buy your car Chrysler factory service manual, it will help with all this.

_________________
/6 Dodge Charger 69
...there's nothing like using the "Search" link above to solve most of your problems...

Ups. not good you don't have room to work in it.

Now, stupid simple initial check: Is the ignition resistor ok? Not sure if you will have weak spark with it burnt/damaged. (I have not had the resistor burnt before, but I guess is worthy performing all simple checks before, this will save you going through a heavier job).

_________________
/6 Dodge Charger 69
...there's nothing like using the "Search" link above to solve most of your problems...