Ok cool, thanks for the advice! Will go with the RV10-RDP (aka #818 when I emailed Oregon cams)

Nope, nope, nope. The #818 is NOT the RV10-RDP. #818 is a single pattern cam.

_________________
Joshua

Per previous posts it's the #2106 grind...not the #818...

You have to tell Ken that or he will make a recommendations based on the old standby's like the 818...

Thanks for this heads up! I just notifed Ken,.

Dropping the engine parts off tomorrow at the machine shop!

We are taking pretty much the long block plus oil pan, timing cover and valve cover, rocker arms/rockers, shaft and its bolts.....new oil pump....will be bought a Flowkooler water pump....timing set, lifters and reground cam will be coming from oregon camshaft......having the damper redone by damper doctor....gonna have the machine shop provide a new oil pickup (ours sounds like a maraca) and all seals, gaskets, valves as needed....will I want them to replace the pushrods and head bolts as well? I am sending those along just in case....

And am debating whether to have them resurface the intake/exhaust manifold....and if so should I pull it apart for them or leave it together??

Gonna ask for head/deck to be milled to reach a compression ration of between 8.4 and 9 per the cam specs....I know the block will be hot tanked.....some porting and polishing and maybe larger valves....not sure what else to ask for really? Is "magnafluxing" a standard to do item or an option? I know its to find cracks etc....does it make sense to do it? How much does that step typically cost?

The guy at the shop did say that he would need to go over everything before he can come up with the solid quote/bid which makes sense....i am hoping that my having the engine already torn down will help speed that up....

Never done this before so I am hoping I have everything together they will need....

Yes, Magnafluxing is a needed item... it would just be self defeating to have them machine everything and you have a crack someplace that causes you to have to get a new block or head after the fact... you can ask the machinist what his rates are....

Given that this is a close to stock rebuild and you are on a budget, stay with the stock valves... unless the head blots have a nick or crack in them they should be fine for rebuilding. Your machinist will just buy a full engine gasket kit to regasket the engine...

Having the engine torn down (including pulling the crank, but bolting the caps back exactly like you found them), will save his labor cost to tear it down for you.

Is the machinist going to install the cam and degree it for you?