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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 8:29 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Location: Moreno Valley,CA
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I need to replace the HB oil seal without have the factory tools how do I get old out and new in?

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 10:52 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: Seattle, WA
Car Model: 75 Dart SE (2),75 Swinger, 74 Dart Sport,91 Ram RV
Others here can help you more, but- You will need to buy the special tool for pulling harmonic dampers, available at auto parts stores or on line. If you try to get the damper off without the tool you will probably destroy the damper, as it is made in 2 parts, joined together by a bonding of rubber in between. I have never tried to remove the seal itself with the cover installed, as the crankshaft is still in it. (Has anyone done that???) With the timing chain cover removed, pushing out the old seal and installing the new seal just needs a pusher tool and a back-up tool, readily available at your local plumbing dept.. The timing cover has a gasket kit that you will need to buy, and it usually includes the crank (damper) seal in the kit. Oh yeh, the fan and radiator are in the way, so they have to come out too.

Sorry, I'm not computir savvy enough to do this right: (Under "Social", see "Project Creep" http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=59920

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 11:59 am 
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Turbo EFI

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Yes, as has been just mentioned, a special puller is required to remove the HB without damaging it. It also requires a special tool to re-install it without damaging it also. Most all parts stores have a tool rental program that can provide these to you at a small fee.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 1:23 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Location: Moreno Valley,CA
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Sorry I should have specified that the balancer and chain cover have all ready been removed.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 10:20 pm 
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Lay the cover on a solid stable surface, engine side down. Use the corner of a narrow flat chisel / punch at an angle wedged between the cover lip and seal. Keep going around it slowly, don't expect it to come out all in one whack.

To install - make sure the area the seal sits in is flat after previous beating. Find a socket, piece of pipe, seal driver, etc that just fits over the outer lip of the seal. Oil up the inside of the timing cover and outer metal shell of the seal. It doesn't have to travel far so it shouldn't be terribly difficult to get it in straight. On that note you may be able to do it with just gentle repeated hammer taps and no driver.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 05, 2016 10:56 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
I have used a tool like THIS for years now to pull all kinds of oil seals. Crank seals (front and rear), trans input and output shaft seals, axle shaft seals, etc... You can likely find a comparable tool at your local auto parts store for a low price.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2016 8:09 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Thanks for the suggestions I ended up using the tap out method with not much difficulty now for a little more cleaning, paint, new oil seal and reassembly and fingers crossed that everything will be good.

Reed I saw that tool at Harbor frt but I wasn't sure it would work on this seal.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2016 9:53 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
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Quote:
Thanks for the suggestions I ended up using the tap out method with not much difficulty now for a little more cleaning, paint, new oil seal and reassembly and fingers crossed that everything will be good.

Reed I saw that tool at Harbor frt but I wasn't sure it would work on this seal.
It will work on that seal, and most any other pressed in type oil seal. Glad you got it figured out though.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 07, 2016 9:04 pm 
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I can't picture how the tool would work on a timing cover. You can't do it from the front as the timing cover lip would interfere. From the back, the seal itself has no lip for the tool to hook to. Perhaps that's not true for all brand seals.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2016 12:16 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
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Later slant timing covers have the seal press in from the front, Earlier covers have the seal press in from the back. I forget the year it changed, but eventually the engineers came to their senses. And, unfortunately, I have to work on other engines besides slant sixes.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2016 5:21 am 
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I think the front-press design must have been really old. I have never seen one in person and have worked on lots of 63-85 motors.

Lou

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2016 6:07 am 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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I have quite a few 1974-1979 covers and the stock seal had a lip and pressed in from the back.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2016 8:29 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Dang it, now I have to go out and find one. I will check and see if I have one of the covers where the seal presses in from the front. Then again, maybe I am remembering wrong. The last 15 years or so have become a blur...


Last edited by Reed on Thu Sep 08, 2016 9:39 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2016 9:28 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Found one in my garage. It is blue with a welded on timing tab, so I will guess it is from the mid to late late 70s.

Pictures:

FRONT (no seal retaining lip)

Image

REAR (also no seal retaining lip)

Image

OIL SEAL PULLER IN ACTION (pulling the seal out the front with no problems)

Image

PROFILE VIEW OF SEAL SEAT IN TIMING COVER

Image

There are no "tabs" on the front or rear of the hole for the oil seal, but my finger tells me that it feels like the bore for the seal tapers from front to back.

The seal definitely presses in from the front on this cover and the seal itself does not have any lip or tab on either end to prevent it from sliding in from the front.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 08, 2016 9:05 pm 
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Nifty! Of the half dozen or so slant's I've gotten my mitts on, all early 70's, they've all had a lip on the front.


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