I am running at 8 degrees. I didn't set it at 12. Just stating that factory says 12. . I had some help this time with maping the mechanical advance. Easier when not doing 4 things at once. Starts in at 1 degree at 1k and tops out at 18 at 2600. 2 runs for verification. Still on the slow side.
Degree....Rpm......Degree........ Rpm
1.............1000 .........16............2400
2.............1200..........18............2600
6.............1400
10...........1600
12...........1800
14........... 2000

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Have you verified that your timing mark is accurate (actually indicates real TDC)?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Yeah it is set properly. Timing mark is probably the most stable mark I have seen when it is running with a light on it. I am dialing the advance out and setting off zero. Those mechanical curve numbers are of course without initial or vacuum timing added in. The distributor was given to me by a tool salesman. He had sold his car. Come to find out it is an autozone special. It appears to be used on numerous vehicles sizes and weights. I am guessing that is safety factoring in. I am looking for stock performance just to use this as a truck. Any ideas on where to find something acceptable.

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This block should only allow 225 characters instead of 255

What Dan is referring to is whether or not the outer ring of the vibration damper on which the timing mark is located has slipped in relation to the center of the damper that is pressed onto the crank. The two piece of the damper are bonded to each other through a ring of vulcanized rubber. Over time, that rubber can fail and the outer ring slip. This means the timing mark on the damper will no longer accurately indicate the position of the crankshaft and piston assembly in the bore. I have personally seen dampers that indicated the timng 8 and 13 degrees off from the true timing position.

This slippage can get extreme. For example, earlier this year the original damper on the 225 in my 76 D100 completely separated while I was driving on the highway. Fortunately, my truck has power steering and the power steering pulley bolted to the front of the damper prevented the outer damper ring from flying completely off the motor and going through someone's windshield. Instead, I just lost cooling and charging.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I verified tdc by a stop that I made. The dampener is spot on.

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You can get a new genuine Chrysler distributor with more favorable advance curves from Old Car Parts Northwest, as described in the HEI upgradearticle.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Lack of experience is my issue. As a technician who started in the era of modern fuel injection I get the idea and the theory of it. Knowing what to ask for is very different. Keeping in mind I am going to use this as a truck do any of you have any suggestions as to a part number I should be in search of.

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3874714? My hold down is not slotted. Is that an issue also? Looks like I can switch them out.

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3874714 is one of numerous that will be fine -- just ask OCPNW for a Slant-6 electronic distributor and you'll get a suitable one. The hold-downs can be swapped; the later type is preferable (a round plate with a hold-down "claw" rather than a slotted plate).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Assuming that the timing mark is accurate, and the cam is properly degreed:

I was looking over the data, and the description of the replacement distributor, springs, and the rpm to advance chart looks to be almost correct for a manual tranny "street/strip" car recurve, but as Dan stated the advance starts a bit too late... since it limits at 18, I would set the initial at 12BTDC... you might see if that does the trick, if it pings you will have to back off. That being said, your chart didn't have a map of the vacuum advance can to see what advance it provides.

I would need your rear ratio and tire size to see what kind of advance would be desired. (Typically automatic and large tires need to have a slightly slower curve....)

I would be interested to know if there is a single or double digit number stamped into the body of the distributor.

Another option is having me recurve your core... you can PM me if interested.

I really appreciate the help. I pulled the distributor before dropping money on a new one. I pulled the weights out and checked they seemed to catch a bit. They appeared dry so I applied an oil on the plate , weights with a needle oiler. I have not checked out the results.

I will get that info for you as soon as I can. I will map the vacuum advance. IRRC it came on at 7"hg and topped out at 15"hg. It provided a full 22 degrees of advance out of the box. I backed it off about 3 turns counter clockwise.


In other news:
I gapped out my plugs to .045 as the article stated. That article is pretty nice. I went to the junkyard and picked up a heat sink and coil bracket.

I hooked the purge valve up to the one solenoid running the faux port vacuum. I installed a gm charcoal canister as mine was missing. I ordered the wrong canister I think so I t'd the vent from the carb into the tank vent. I ended up putting a 4 second spark delay valve in from a 79 ish ford pickup so I didn't get dip on take off with a cold engine.

When I repaired my head I had all my lifters set up in order. I have a younger basset hound who was chasing my french bulldog through the garage and they had knocked my lifters over. I had replaced all the lifters and had a really bad tick in the Lifter above the distributor. I backed my oil weight down from 10-40 to 5-30 lifter tick and small vacuum fluctuation is now gone. That was easier than I thought it was going to be.

Overall I had a decent day off. I just hope the canister works out. Hot start issues are plaguing me.

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This block should only allow 225 characters instead of 255

Some interesting modifications you've made.
Not a good idea. Under some conditions this will pressurize your carburetor via the vent line. Put in the correct canister as linked in my previous post in this thread and hook it up correctly.
This makes no sense and can't do anything good for you. Hook it up correctly as previously linked.
This makes no sense, too. Delaying vacuum advance does not eliminate "dip" on takeoff, it aggravates it. If you get a different result, it's because other stuff is wrong.
Cheer up, they will go away when you undo the random hookups and put everything where it's supposed to go.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I think you misunderstood me. I am waiting on a carb with ported vac. I hooked manifold vac to the purge solenoid. I then t'd the vac line. The line going to the purge solenoid has the spark delay valve on it. The distributor gas a 3.0 mm opening to buffer as you suggested. It delays vacuum only to the the purge valve. When the engine was cold I was having dip issues.

I got the canister that you suggested. It has 3 ports. Tank, purge, and air. I have the stand alone valve as well? . There was no diagram that indicated which port the carb vent went too. Please advise me as to where I went wrong.

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The distributor responds to vacuum immediately. I believe the dip was due to the leaning event of the purge valve opening the line.

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oil on the weights, I now get these numbers.
RPM..........Degrees
845...........1
1010.........2
1170.........3
1250.........4
1310.........5
1330.........6
1410.........7
1490.........8
1510.........9
1570.........10
1600.........11
1630.........12
1700.........13
1750.........14
1880.........15
2100.........16
2360.........17
2570-------18

Vacuum
11"hg 2 deg
12"hg 4 deg
13"hg 6 deg
14' hg 10 deg
15" hg 12 deg
16" hg 18 deg
17" hg 20 deg

Tire size 225 75 15

Weight when weigh was 4112

Ratio unknown at this point

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