I have a 65 dart 225 charger. I want to have it rebuilt. Id like 1 HP per cubic inch but have no idea what to have done to the motor. Its it possible to get 225 HP slant six. If so I would like a step by step process with the parts I need to achieve this, can someone put me on the right track for that?

_________________
No car info 3/27/2017 Guido

Where are you located? What you want to do is reasonable. Sometimes a ride in a car that's well put together can help as much as a step by step list. You will probably learn that less than 225 hp is a lot of fun in a '65 Dart. You can gradually make certain changes over a couple years. There is a bit of tuning to get everything sorted out as you reach greater na power levels, not that I'm an expert. Many here are very familiar with what you meed to do, there are different ways to get there. If you would use a M90 supercharger you can get there quicker than other approaches

Welcome to the board.

It's not a good idea to define your project in terms of a horsepower number. All horsepower numbers are good for is chit-chatting about when you're standing around BSing with other people.

It's also not a good idea to start by picking parts (This camshaft someone says is great, that supercharger someone says will be awesome, this carburetor that looks really cool, etc) -- that's a good way to waste a whackload of cash, and there are big threads here on this board showing the resultant disappointment and failure in lurid detail, missing only this.

You will also find no shortage of people on the internet happy to egg you on: "Yeah, man, 225 horsepower, that's totally possible, you should buy THIS part and THAT part and do THIS and do THAT, and we're all cheering for you!" Keep in mind it's no skin off their nose (or money out of their wallet).

It's a much better idea to define and plan your project in specific, detailed terms of what you want the car to do (and not to do, and to do differently than it does now). And don't think about just the engine; the brakes, suspension, tires, rear axle, radiator, transmission (…seat belts, lights...) on a stock '65 Dart aren't up to safely coping with a big jump in engine output, so you need to think about (and budget for) the whole car in terms of money, effort, and time.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

First of all, Welcome to the Forum!!
Second, absolutely it is possible!!
Third, as Tim said, there are more than one approach to Your goal.
I am in the "head first" camp, the cyl. head holds the key to making
the output You're looking for easiest, everything else You do will do
it better if the head is flowing good. Stock the head limits the output
to the upper mid-100's generally with anything remotely streetable.
There are many members all over, they can guide You to an area
speed/machine shop or member capable of doing this if You're not
taking the task on Yourself. We need to know where You're at to do
that!!

I agree with Dan.

Define a vision of your car. Think about what you want from it when its done. Develop a theme. Think about a colour palette .

Dont worry about particular parts or methods until you are able to pick processes and parts according to whether they meet your vision or not.

If all you want is 225hp....you don't need a car....you need a dyno.

_________________
Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Crap, now I have to change my opinion; I have a reputation to live down to.
Well said!

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Agreed. Someone should re-post the "engine matrix" thread.

Lou

_________________
Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Here:

--> http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=23314

_________________
--> Check out my FI Turbo build <--
--> And the race truck build project <--
--> The Diesel Corvette <--

Well I want it to be 4 bbl carb aluminum intake possibly Clifford combo. Engine 60 over with 10:1 flat top pistons. Head shaved blocked decked as much as possible with out hitting pistons. Head ported polished. As big a valves as I can get in the head. 3 angle valve job. have the head chambers polished. have it camed with a cam that matches what I just listed. Crank reworked and balanced complete rebuild kit. Ive already put spindles on front to change it to 5x4.5 front end with disk brakes. I have 15inch rims on it. Going to rebuild the a904 stock. getting new drive shaft to replace the old ball and trunion. going to leave the stock rear end. I want a good strong motor but just going to use the car for every day driver.

_________________
No car info 3/27/2017 Guido

There are a lot of different ways to skin that cat. WHat you've listed will get you in the right direction. The only thing I would suggest is to match the build to the cam rather than trying to match a cam to the build. In other words decide on your cam early on in the process and make the specifics of the motor match it.

_________________
--> Check out my FI Turbo build <--
--> And the race truck build project <--
--> The Diesel Corvette <--

Why?
Why?
Why?
Why?
Why?


Which part of "Define what you want the car to do and how, and your budget in money, effort, and time, before you even start to think about picking out parts" is not making sense to you?
That's not going to last.
:shrug:

This is starting to look a lot like Bren67cuda904 all over again. Not my circus, not my monkeys. Good luck!

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Your 65 Dart most likely has a well used 7 1/4 rear end in it and that rear end will not last long, behind a "pumped-up" 225 SL6.
Confirm what rear is in that car and start thinking about a larger replacement rear axle assembly (with the 5 on 4.5 bolt pattern) if you go thru with the engine / transmission modifications you are describing.
Great advice...
Review how to calculate an engine's Dynamic Compression Ratio (DCR) and "play" with those numbers, on one of the many on-line DCR calculators.

Doing trial DCR calculations will really help you refine your combination of parts & machine shop work.
(Let us know if you need some of the SL6 "numbers" to plug into the calculator)
As a start, a factory 225 SL6 has a 3.4 bore, a 4.125 stroke, a 6.7 connecting rod length, appx .180 negative deck height and appx 58 cc head chamber.
(you will need to measure your engine to get actual data)

The hardest "number" to get for a DCR calculation is the cam's Intake Valve Closing Point (IC)... that is why early cam selection is so important.
DD

x2 here. I put a 160 hp build in front of a not so high miler 7 1/4 rear and after a few hard traffic merges, it complained a lot after that and wasn't going to be long for the world....

Also you will have to check where the powerband of the selected camshaft lies to get the best power and mileage out of the build... so once you get your selections correct, you will want to look at the rear ratio and tire size to make sure that the build will be happy.... (you may find that having to cruise down the highway at 3000-3500 rpm is not as 'fun'... and this may need a stall convertor as well and beef up the A904 guts to handle it, gonna need a new kickdown assembly to hook up to the 4 barrel.)
Most of the above is not needed unless you are going to race...

You haven't stated how you are going to improve the exhaust, with clifford you are looking at headers or dutra dual duals...

I have built a similar build for the Hpak Duster, and all of the above with dutra duals and an Erson 280/270 will net you about 190 hp... Milling the head and block for 10:1 will not get you close to the pistons... that will happen when you mill for a non-streetable 12:1 build with the stock pistons and that will be closer to 225hp+....

One other item to note, is the economics of this improvement, assuming that you buy all the parts and drop it off to the machine shop to work up and they do the assembly, you'll be into it for a few thou....

Food for thought.

Well dan if it grieves you that much to type, then don't. I didn't realize it was that painful to talk to someone about building and engine. thanks anyway

_________________
No car info 3/27/2017 Guido

WillyPete,
As info...I read and lurk a lot on a couple of Mopar forums. I rarely get involved in conversations that don't involve me, or something I can help with or maybe have a question about. However, I thought it might be helpful to point out a few things.

You are a brand new member to the group, and received a warm welcome. You came on line asking for help with your engine build. So far, so good. Lots of people have done the same. But when several members with tons of street cred point out you are approaching your build from the wrong direction, your response is to continue down this road disregarding the advice you requested. Between SlantSixDan, Duster Idiot, Doctor Dodge, Dart270, Sandy in BC, and Tim Keith you have a half dozen of the most highly experienced and knowledgeable /6 experts on the forum, with fifteen YEARS of participation as opposed to sixteen DAYS.

Your response to the advice was to continue down the pathway of backwards engineering your build. When SSD points out what you have done, your response is to go all snarky. You are not listening to valuable advice and are in the process of alienating those who can help you. If you wish to add me to the list of those you choose to malign, so be it - I have thick skin and will lose no sleep over it. Life is about choices, and choices have consequences. I suggest it would be valuable to think about what you are doing, how you are acting, and listen to those whose experience will get you where you want to go.

Oh, and by the way...when posting to a forum, as is also true about life in general, spelling and grammar do indeed count.