Also:

(1) How necessary are the emission controls to the effective performance of the engine? Are they all required for the engine to function properly, or can I disregard them for the rebuild? I do understand from previous threads that the PVC valve itself is required for optimum efficiency.

(2) As I was saying, I'm going to get the original engine rebuilt locally. I'd like to tweak it a bit, but not so much that I would require reworking of rear end, transmission ,etc. I would have no issues with modifying the exhaust system. Any thoughts? Would converting it to a Super Six be a viable idea, or is the increase in performance to little to really warrant the expenditure? Thanks again.

Shawn

Some of them can be removed/bypassed to improve efficiency; others should remain because they help. See here.
This is a good place to put money. Dutra Duals, better than headers unless you're going racing. 2" pipe off of each of the two exhaust manifolds, into this wye connector, 2-1/4" pipe from there to this muffler. It's in Walker's QuietFlow SS premium OE line, all stainless steel (which is nice for durability), made for the '01 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 so it's easily got the flow capacity for a healthy 225 and it's tuned to keep an inline-6's exhaust from droning, has a 2¼" inlet and outlet (can easily step down to a 2" tailpipe). The inlet has a 2-bolt flange meant to bolt directly to the outlet of the Jeep's catalytic converter, but there's plenty of length to the input pipe that the flange can just be sawed off in 5 seconds at the exhaust shop. It's got the 4¼" × 9¾" housing, muffler shell 20" long, so it'll be a bit of a tight fit in an A-body, but it will fit.

2" tailpipe with resonator. If I'm rich, I like a Flowmaster HP2 stainless unit with 2" in and out. It's 18" long, which is a workable fit behind most A-body quarter panels. If I'm broke, I like a Walker № 17198 4" round can-type unit, 2" in and 2" out, with offset outlet next to a proper hanger bracket.

Speaking of that, whatever muffler you wind up with, make sure to use very soft hangers. The hook-and-O-ring type, for example. Today's popular "rod and rubber box" type transmits a lot of noise to the passenger compartment.

(Tailspout outlet 45° or greater downward.)
To a Super Six or some some other 2bbl setup, with a carefully-chosen carburator: yes, very viable and a good idea for overall driveability, performance, and economy.

Also the HEI upgrade with a carefully recurved distributor (get with DusterIdiot for the distributor) and a carefully perfected cap and rotor.

And an RV10-RDP camshaft, that is a № 2106R from Oregon Cam.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Well, I'm currently sniffing around for the Super Six 2bbl manifold, carb, air breather and associated linkages. Dan, that conversion setup article you referenced is interesting...Calling around local junkyards has produced no results. I have ads out and may need to try and locate the items out-of-province. I'm also checking to see if there are any aftermarket options that you don't need to mortgage the house to obtain.

Wish me luck.....

Shawn

For a street vehicle it will probably be easier and sheaper to source a used Offenhauser or Clifford intake than a factory Super Six. I recommend the Offenhauser for a street motor because it is designed to mate to the stock exhaust manifold so you keep the carb base heat.

OK, that might be an area to put some money, too; the stock power steering is numb and will put a lot of tension in your shoulders trying (in vain) to find the centre of the steering by feel as you drive down the road. Then add several decades of wear and slop, and it gets worse. There are improvements to be made in the steering gearbox.
The passenger-side mirror isn't the same as the driver-side unit, and while the matching passenger-side mirror looks nice, it's almost useless because of its flat glass. The field of view is way too small to be of any use to you clear across the car.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Don't sweat the linkages too hard. See this thread for kickdown options.

The Offenhauser and Clifford options Reed mentions are 4bbl intakes. For the kind of usage you have in mind, a 4bbl carburetor would be a very large initial and ongoing waste of money and effort, but you can get adaptor plates to mount a 2bbl (such as using a 4bbl intake and putting a Motorcraft 2100/2105 2bbl on it). If you go that route, get the Offenhauser intake. Not only is Clifford's stuff of questionable quality, but it also does not have provisions to connect to the exhaust manifold for intake heat, which you definitely want.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Sorry, Dan clarified what I intended. I was suggesting get an Offy intake and run a two barrel carb adapter, but I neglected to finish my thought. A four barrel carb is a bit large for a stock motor on the street.

If I were shopping for a two barrel carb setup, this would be my shopping list:

(1) Offenhauser intake. Get the best price you can. Search eBay, Craigslist, flea markets, online forums. I got one for $65 and another in trade. You can buy or fabricate a simple adapter plate to run a two barrel carb on the four barrel intake.

(2) THIS carburetor

(3) THIS kickdown linkage

(4) an air cleaner from a two barrel 318 equipped vehicle

(5) an electric choke thermostat kit from Carbs Only

(6) a homemade throttle return spring bracket

Thanks guys. Sorry to be the class idiot when it comes to this stuff...but I'm learning! The links and advice are gold.

Cheers,
Shawn

I have yet to see you ask anything like a thoughtless question. There is no shame in ignorance; nobody's born knowing any of this stuff and we all gotta start somewhere. The shame is in willful/proud ignorance, or pretending ignorance and knowledge are equally valid or facts and opinions are two names for the same thing. You aren't doing any of that. Keep on askin'!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The carb Reed pointed at would be an A1 pick if you wind up using a stock 2bbl intake.

I don't concur with that kickdown cable he pointed at, tho -- too many "Can't make the damn thing work, helllp!" types of situations with those (Lokar and Lokar knockoffs). The Bouchillon setup, either bought as such or pieced together out of the wrecking yards, is a factory-engineered deal with most of the hassle bred out of it.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

It's certainly been learning curve! But I will persevere! lol. I may have found a Super Six assembly close to home....I'll keep you posted. I guess I'll know more in a few days both on which way I will proceed, and in which systems need the most work. The car is getting her once-over this weekend.

Shawn

Put an ad here (in the Parts Wanted forum) for anything that you need. Keep in mind that those ads disappear after 60 days, so you have to re-post after that.

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Chuck Rivers, Webmaster

Thanks, Chuck! Great idea.
Shawn

Hello All:

Well, the mechanic's report isn't all bad news, lol.

The Dart needs what I suspected it would in terms of ball joints, a few bushings and suspension components, muffler, rear drums (front drums seem to be fine), brake pads (that were all installed incorrectly) and shocks. Wiper assembly needs work also. One thing he mentioned, was that water has been collecting under the vinyl roof and he says that the car's roof has been severely damaged as a result. I was initially going to replace the vinyl, but I think now I'll wait till the Fall, then get the vinyl taken off when the car goes in for bodywork. I'll have the roof painted either the MOPAR dark green (same as the car), or I'll have the roof painted black for contrast. Not specifically a restoration match, but it may be the right thing to do. The car's cooling system in good shape an operating correctly.

The current 225 Slant Six engine seems to be in fine shape. It required a bit of TLC in terms of plugs, timing and a tune-up, but she's apparently humming now.

So - the priority at the moment remains securing the mechanical fitness certificate (I'm just waiting on parts).

More to follow...

Shawn

Sounds like a mix, but overall good. If the engine is running fine and maybe just needs some tuning or minor upgrades, then I would not rebuild it or do anything major. I do not recall if you said it was front disc brakes, but if not then this might be a good time to upgrade to those.

Best wishes,

Lou

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