Yep, have 2 "squares" there... the dash bezel has a cover for one, and the other has an in dash knockout.... There is also a square above the radio that is free...

More fun tomorrow...

[/quote]Looks like the dash monaural speak is still intact, the rear pacakge tray has 2 speaker perforations in it but no speakers installed in the tray...

So I will need to get some speaker wire, and a couple of oval 3 ways for the back... debating on what to do in the front for the front channel speakers... the door panels are too nice to cut holes in, and the kick panels only would allow speakers in the passenger side.

Rob,
Not sure if it will help or not, but I had the same situation on the Valiant. I fabbed a mounting plate for the dash to hold a pair of 4" speakers for the front channel, then added a pair of 6x9's for the rear. I admit this may be a solution that works well for me but not for others (I have only one ear that works, so EVERYTHING in my world is in mono...). However, it is a clean fix that sounds OK. Here is a photo or two...

Zach

This won't help your monaural problems up front, but if you are looking for a good subwoofer, pull the amp and subwoofer and housing from a late 90s/early 2000s Lincoln Town Car at the junkyard. They are up under the package tray. I plan on doing that for my 76 D100.

Have you pulled the dash top and checked for space for left and right speakers in the dash frame? I believe four channel stereos were an option on F/M/J bodies, so the openings might be there despite only having the central grill.

Tach is hooked up, vacc gauge is hooked up, both have lights...

Need to get the speakers and wire to finish the stereo install....

Have scheduled to have the car aligned on the 12th, and have to work with my buddy on making the temp exhaust a more permanent exhaust after that....

Am a bit concerned... I fired it up today and put it in drive from neutral and almost killed it.... (literally rpm dropped from 1200 rpm to 500 rpm then the vacc reading went from 20 to 5....), not sure if that indicates a transmission issue (it is a lock up 904).... almost think I need a vacuum solenoid on the carb to keep it 'afloat' upon going into gear....

Stereo is in and works great... FYI the package tray has 3 6x9 knockouts in it... 2 for speakers and 1 for the old style defroster (this car has he electric window strips)... Interesting that unlike the A-bodies F-bodies use a rubber backed padding behind the seat and under the package tray....

Although the Aspen trunk is a bit wider than the Duster, it's not as deep...FYI.

I have had to set the curb idle up to about 1600 so when I drop it into D it stays at 1000 rpm... at which time the vacc drops from 20" to 12".... running it on the jackstands the 904 runs through all the gears and shifts correctly. I have a spare 1977 non-lockup 904 as a spare I should check and setup in case I find the lockup clutch is stuck engaged...


I also notice that I have about a 2" vacc drop when the brakes are applied (that recovers when the rpm goes up...), I wonder if the runout is high on the power brake booster causing this kind of drop.

Weds it goes in for a full alignment. Once that's done I can get some road time on it and dial the carb in better and see how it drives.

Hopefully I can get this figured out and shaken down before August...

Today I cleared out the jackstands, jack and blocks... fired it off, warmed it up, and killed it in gear....

After a few times of that I let it warm up an get a stable idle then it stayed idling in gear... but not before I barked the tires pulling it into drive and throwing both 4x8 sheets of plywood out from under it...

It goes in for an alignment and a coupe small things on Weds... after that road testing will occur... there are a few things I have to iron out that aren't quite right:

I have locked the secondaries out, so I'm only on the small side of the 390 cfm carb... that being said it is at 1600 rpm in park or neutral and drops to 900 rpm in R or D.. subsequently the vacuum reading goes from 18-20" down to 12-13" which is right on the dual power valve's first step...

When I do drop it into gear, if I'm not heavy on the brakes it will briefly bark the tires... which is great for scaring spectators, but not good in the supermarket parking lot....

So I think I will get the second 904 open and look at how worn it is.

I also wonder if the vacc reading will improve by installing a softer secondary spring... like plain or purple... if not I will have to trade the power valve in for a 10.5/6.5 instead.

Once I got it up and going I jockeyed it into position to vacuum out the cowl and troughs, then wash it... under all the dust I had a brown car with rust... LOL...

I will say just getting it around the driveway in forward and reverse, the Firm Feel Stage 2 Power steering is effortless.. I mean smooth and one finger on the wheel effortless... will have to see how this does on the street...

Guess I better burn Neil Diamond's greatest hits for the Cd/Mp3 player to digest... it just fits the four door family sedan....



More coming soon, and some pics as well...

Shop just called and Aspen is done with the alignment, I will get it back tomorrow and then I can start with the flogging....

Awesome! Keep it coming, Rob!

Alignment feels great, steering will spoil anyone...

Found I have a significant leak at the timing cover to oil pan gasket right at the bottom of the 'curve' between the 2 bolts that mate the pan to the timing cover... so as long as I drive it on the flats or up a hill it doesn't gleek oil...



I am firmly convinced that the transmission is suffering from the typically 1978 lock up 904 problem of the lock up valve keeping the convertor locked up no matter what gear, forward or reverse, is engaged... I also see on the M-body page that this is common and sometimes some blockage in the lines to the radiator/cooler will also provide back pressure to the lockup mechanism and leave it engaged... which explains why the drop into R or D tends to drag the engine down to stalling, and dumps all the torque to the rear wheels and barks them if the brakes aren't held tight...

I pulled the cover off the 1977 904 I just acquired, and the guts look good, it's a non-lockup, but the transmission fluid residue inside is darkish red, not nicer color red like fresh Dex 3... also when I pulled the valve body to look at it, I noticed that there was a noticeable odor like "o-zone" or burnt wiring... that says to me that the transmission might need a rebuild...

So, I think this weekend and next week... I am going to:

1) Pull the timing cover back off and redo the gasket...

2) I'm going to pull the tranny lines and blow them out, and the cooler... then drop the tranny pan and pull the valve body and see what gives, and most likely I will pull the cover on the lockup valve and stick a length of rod in there to shim the valve and turn in back into a normal 904....)

#1 is routine, and I think I will pack the void with RTV once the gasket and cover is tightened into place...


#2 is going to be interesting, if none of it fixes it, I will not be at the August race and will either be rebuilding an A904... or locating that guy with the craigslist ad and modifying this car for either an A230 or A833OD....(I just need pedals, linkage, and an F-body hump... I got all the other major stuff, and this engine was already mated to the 1974 A230 in the Beater Valiant so it's already set with a bushing....)


I will note that I found both build sheets intact for this car, I snagged the one under the rear seat, and I know the other is pinned through with the front drivers side bench seat stud under the carpet and left it in place...


Gonna need more popcorn as the adventure continues....

DI- I think I have a few of the factory replacement springs Chrysler released to fix the lockup problem on the 78 904s. Yours for the asking if you are interested.

PM coming up!

Spent a few hours looking at bulletins. There is a lot of them, for example front pump revised 3 times and different sealing rings and valve changes,lockup module changes,not vented to vented.All this was related to pressure from one circuit leaking into the apply circuit for the the lockup .All temperature related for example my 80 aspen on hot days would stall or idle real bad.Checked the brass fitting at trans out to cooler,the first flow restriction, below out lines and checked flow threw radiator and back to trans all OK. Reran lines to separate cooler,no radiator. Trans stays cool,no circuit leaks,no stalls good idle.Most cars got the updated parts 30 years ago,yours may not have.Try reset line pressure to stock and separate cooler. Then may be not lockup at all. Sounds like your into the off idle port on carburetor which could be too lean etc.That not my area. Well that,s the wild guess and rambles.Good luck

Good info there, I will be looking at the valve body and pressure adjustment... This car was very "OEM" so I doubt it got the upgrades (I have replace the spare tire, it's hard as a rock, has no air in it, and looks like a bias ply tire from the late 70's/80's....LOL...


Just eating lunch now that the timing cover is back on, and Reed has one of the springs needed for the "fix"... after I get the engine back together I will blow out my lines and the radiator cooler, drain the tranny, and pull the valve body and check the settings clean out the shuttle passages and wait for Reed's spring...

I'm whupped... time for dinner...

Timing cover and front of engine is back on Radiator is back in place... I have to adjust the belts and refill with Coolant....

Back under the car in the shade... Pulled the pan, drained the fluid (all nice and clean no black/gunk/ etc....

Pulled the valve body and cooler lines...air compressor on cooler lines show ATF and no gunk....

I had hosed out the radiator cooler with the air compressor after that... lots of nice ATF, no noticeable gunk...not much could hang on at high psi and alternating each port...

Pulled the lock up module and pulled the valves and springs out, they looked great, springs were still resilient, cleaned the bores out with solvent, no gunk or dirt just ATF and smooth, blew out the S tube.

Pulled the valve body apart and blew out the lock up orifice, no gunk...all check balls are where they are supposed to be including the one for the rear clutch only the slant six model has...

Acumulator spring was still in place when I pulled it out of the car...

Tomorrow I will check the line and throttle pressure adjustments... then will be on hold until Reeds spring shows up, then I can put it all back together....

I notice that the 1977 transmission I have has slotted screws for the vavle body fasteners, and the 1978 transmission has phillips screws except at the lock up and other valve access panels....

I will need to get 2 more of those phillips fasteners as I stripped the phillips indent on them when they wouldn't budge then mangled them using a pair of pump pliers on them (they were very stubborn)....

I also am glad I had to do this repair, I was under the car and noticed one of the T-bar Pivot Bracket bolts was a little loose, along with a couple of others that looked suspect so I tightened them back up... will have to check again after the next flog to see if anything else loosens up.... I also noticed that the car has a bit of a "rake" to it so I tightened the torsion bars a few more turns to hopefully raise the front of the car a bit (it was low enough I couldn't get my 3 ton jack under the K member....)

Will get the last things buttoned up tomorrow, and then hopefully the rest of the stuff done mid week, and get to actually shake it down...

Put some early bulletins in transmission section,more later