I'm moving this thread over to Fuel Injection area where it belongs.

I have the system all wired up and plumbed, but ran out of time. Had to run the vent line, run all the wiring, vacuum hoses, O2 sensor. For the throttle cable, I used half my original (the cable housing and cable) and half Lokar (the bit on the carb linkage). The Mopar cable works best on the gas pedal side, so I simply cut it short and used the Lokar collet on the carb end. For the wires, I put all those fuse blocks in a plastic box and mounted on the inner fender.

Maybe next weekend I can see if it runs.

Let me know if you can see this album in Flickr. I'll add more pics when I have some time.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/151192512 ... 6961526645

Brian

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Flickr

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Same thing!

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65 Dart station wagon slant 6 - now under construction
47 Dodge Custom 4 Door sedan
87 D100 Short Bed slant 6

Retired USAF 1966-1986
Retired US Postal Service 2004-2014

Maybe there is a button I have to push for sharing authorization, thought that was OK, but I'll check.

Sorry.

Brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

I unlocked my photos, let me know if you can see them now.

brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

I can view them. Is that a show car or do you drive it? Its clean.

The fuel commander 1/4"? from the alt pulley would make a little nervous.

VERY nice work!

Nice set up, let us know how it runs.

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1976 Feather Duster /6 4sp
1984 W100 318 727 np241
1972 'Cuda 340 4sp
1985 D250 360 46RH

No more photobucket for me, Flickr it is.

It's my commute car, but I've had it off the road for a while. Just rebuilt (DD) the engine and broke it in, set the timing, drove it around some on the double 2bbls. Seems like a strong build, but I haven't put enough miles on it to really test that yet.

I've redone the whole system from radiator to rearend over the past couple years. I want to get to the body work and interior, but wanted a stable driveable platform first (my commute is long). I want to do the TBI conversion so I can use it in traffic (the webers can't take the heat standing still in 95 degree weather for 20 minutes is too much for them).

I'll post some more picks later. Also, I have a lot of reading to do on programming the FiTech.

Brian

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The sump deally is actually closer to 1/2" away from the alternator pulley, the photo is misleading. The sump won't move a bit, and I don't think the engine will move forward that far, unless somebody tells me otherwise...eeek. I can move the sump further away, maybe a 1/4 inch more, but I'll have to cut the bracket and do more fabrication. I think this should be OK.

Brian

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Well, I filled the fuel command center, hooked up the fuel line to the TBI, connected the last wire (sump power wire), turned the key and she fired right up. Idles smoothly, good throttle response. I haven't tuned it at all, just set the initial setup to 6 cyl, 225 cu in., warm idle 800 rpm, etc.

I throttled it a few times cold, very crisp response, after it warmed up same thing but once I got a good "pop" from the TBI. I'll have to figure out how to fine tune this thing.

I let it idle for 10 minutes, checked for leaks (none), etc. I was worried the temp sender was reading too low, but after it warmed up good it read 185 degrees (as my thermostat is supposed to be).

Here are more pics:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/151192512 ... 6961526645

Brian

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Very Nice! Hopefully mine will look that nice!

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65 Dart station wagon slant 6 - now under construction
47 Dodge Custom 4 Door sedan
87 D100 Short Bed slant 6

Retired USAF 1966-1986
Retired US Postal Service 2004-2014

I set the IAC (Idle Air Control) to specs, and took it for a drive around the block. There is some hesitation or bog, I'll have to figure out which. Might be getting too much fuel or not enough, there are plenty of adjustments to work with. It is really nice to be able to punch a few buttons and see the change. Once the idle screw is set (for the IAC) the rest is joystick control. You can program the ECU while it's running, so you can see instantly the effect of your changes. Also, doesn't come back to idle fast enough, there is an adjustment for that as well.

Note, if you see a black wire coming from the driver side front stud that holds the TBI down, I was reading on various blogs and some people reported insufficient ground issues, I preemptively ran a ground wire from that stud to my ground terminal block. That said, I checked for ground between the block and chassis and the TBI and it was fine before I added the wire.

More to come.

Brian

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BTW, for the hot wire (white one on FiTech) I just used the wire that I had for the electric choke on the carbs. The white wire needs power both in start and on key positions. FiTech also requires a hot wire directly to the battery so the CPU doesn't forget everything. I'll record all my settings once I figure them out just in case I have to change the battery or cut the power for some reason.

b

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