Hey Everyone:

My buddy and I have decided to rebuild the lower end of my 1793 Dodge Dart 225 CID slant six engine over the winter. He's got a garage with a lift, all the necessary tools, etc. I'm pretty new to this (he's done a lower end before), but we figure it might be fun and a learning experience. I am, however, going to get the head redone at a local automotive shop. I have a couple of questions...

(1) Has anyone had any experience with the 225 rebuild kits I see online. I understand they aren't going to get me a 250 hp monster, but that's not what I'm after. I'd like a good, solid engine, that has a bit more pep than the stock one in it at the moment.

(2) Are there any major pitfalls or concerns that someone like me (mechanical newbie) should watch out for? I do have the shop manual, as well as an online-acquired sheet of tolerances and torque specs for the 225.

(3) I'm still hunting around for a two barrel intake manifold. I may have to either opt for a small 4bbl, or purchase the Offenhauser 4bbl manifold, and adapt it down to a 2bbl configuration. Opinions and thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks for reading all that!

Cheers,
Shawn

What do you mean by Slant Six rebuild kits?
If it was me, I would take the engine down, get the crank and bores measured by a trustworthy machine shop to see what it needs, then go part shopping. It is possible the machine shop could get good pricing on main, cam bearings, timing set, pistons rings, cup plugs, valve seals,,,
If you are going to upgrade the cam I recommend working with Oregon Cam Grinding and keeping the OE cam with the OE oil pump gear,,
Oh yea, get piston recession measurements and combustion chamber cc info prior to taking the motor completely apart. Things to watch out for,,
If you plan to do your own assembly be sure to have a top quality calibrated torque wrench, use a thread lube, ARP sells a good one, and chase - clean all threads prior to assembly, speaking of cleanliness, even on a bagged, hot tanked block or head, I run a brissel brush and flush with brake cleaner all internal oil lines,,,then vacuum the internal lines, threaded holes and internal cavities.

Something like this:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrysler-225-Slant-6-Motor-Engine-Rebuild-Kit-/191528568571

Yes, Dan already steered me to Oregon Cam and suggested a grind.

Thanks for the heads up.

Shawn

I'm hoping to do as much as I can without the shop.

Shawn

You have to take the block to a machine shop to have them "hot tank" it, but you can do much at home. As has already been mentioned, you can and should take measurements as you disassemble the block. Get yourself a good micrometer, a set of telescoping bore gauges, some plastigauge, a piece of plexiglas large enough to cover a combustion chamber, some feeler gauges, and a syringe with CC gradations on the side. As you take the motor apart, measure the bore, the crank journals (mains and connecting rods), measure the volume of the combustion chamber and how far down in the bore the piston sits at TDC. Get a factory service manual for your car to see how to disassemble the motor and check all the clearances and measurements.

Once you have these measurements, you can start shopping around for the parts you actually need, rather than buy a kit that has everything. You may get lucky and find you can get away with nothing more than a ring job and spend all your money on the head. Or you may find you need to overbore the block and grind the journals on the crank. You won't know until you check.

That sounds like good advice to me.

So, from what I'm reading while researching, it seems that quite often the crank itself is fine with a good polish (unless the journals require grinding, that is). Also, it seems to me, that if the pistons themselves aren't overtly damaged in any way (worn, out of round, holes, etc), then they should still be serviceable. Also, in terms of the cylinder walls...if they are re-bored say, .20 over, then does it follow that the new piston rings themselves must make up the difference and also be oversize by that same .20? Sorry...pretty basic questions, I know, but I'm learning, Obi Wan.

Thanks, Shawn

If you aren't going to put any demand on the crank *and* the crank journals mic out to being within spec for being round, then a polish with some 500 grit emery cloth works fine... if you are going to place some stress on it then getting it checked for cracks is required.... you can also just trade your crank in for a crank kit and get the crank and bearings in one package....

If you rebore you need a piston and rings of the appropriate size....020 would allow the piston to rock in it's bore... you might have gotten away with it if the old service pistons in .005 were still available... you will have to look at the bores and see if they are scored then have the machine shop determine how much hone will be required to clean them up...

Sounds logical. Thanks for the help!
Shawn

I was going to merely fix the engine that's in it up for now, but I think that I'd be nickel and diming myself. Probably better off to do the job correctly the first time.

Shawn

782.00 is a way too much to pay for six pistons, rings and a bearing set.

you will still likely need, a timing set and certainly a gasket set

Silvolite has reasonably priced OE style pistons and rings

Look at Federal Mogul or Clevite tri-metal bearings for a steel crank engine

An OE style timing set is fine for street use,

all that stuff is available on E bay,,,RockAuto is a good mail order house also

Here is a reasonably priced gasket set http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Chrysler- ... 0005.m1851

DadTruck is right.

If you can afford to have the vehicle out of commission for a while, there is no reason why you can't take the time to rebuild it right. It won't nickel and dime you to death, but be prepared for expenses you didn't expect. Do it once, do it right, and you likely will never have to do it again.

That's what I thought in the end, also. Thanks!
Shawn

15 August, 2017

Hey Everyone:

I've been cleaning the engine bay up a bit, getting rid of numerous layers of Ziebart! What nefarious stuff. Red components are from a donar car, collected after a front-end incident in the 80's. Eventually, the engine bay will be painted black. Looking at this, I am also considering painting the grill (I have two) black when the car is repainted next year. I am afraid to tell you what they want around here for a rechromed bumper!! Looks like I may have this spare engine to sell at some point...

Shawn