Looking into these small-block valve springs for my 225 (see here -> https://goo.gl/1tqLN6) Does anyone know if they'll work with the OG 346 cam?

• SPRING SPECS: Top 1.065" O.D., .650" I.D.; Bottom 1.415" O.D., 1.000" I.D.; Open#284 ; Seat#109; Rate 280#
• 346 CAM SPECS: Duration @ .050, 234/228; Lobe Seperation, 106; Lobe Center, 102/110, Lobe Lift, 317/319, Valve Lift 476/479 (clocked at 100°, thanks again Lou!)Recommended spring pressures are 110 seat and 300 open - factored for regular springs - beehive springs could be a little less in #

Is the associated hardware listed on the page compatible with the /6?

Much appreciated everyone,
-Chris

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'68 Barracuda - taking advice on increasing street torque, power, & road handling. Click To See It

You should contact Oregon Cam Grinding to see what they recommend for the spring open and close pressure. The open and close pressure for springs is influenced by the valve spring installed height. So the installed height in your slant six head needs to be known. The installed height can be adjusted by machining deeper or adding shims to the spring seat, or by the design of the spring retainer. Remember to check for spring to spring clearance at full valve open.
The .479 valve lift is in the region where you need to verify that there is clearance at the valve guide/valve seal, so watch for that.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

DadTruck - I had some of that info but didn't share it, sorry about that. Too much eggnog. I updated the post. Suppose I will only know the rest when the head is off the car. I was just wondering if the springs mechanically would fit or if I need to keep looking at specs - perhaps it's too early to nail the particulars down?

OG recommended 110# at the seat and 300# open. For standard springs, the beehive springs (from what I know) can use somewhat less # than that. This is not for a racing engine, just a strong & torquey street performer.
-Chris

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'68 Barracuda - taking advice on increasing street torque, power, & road handling. Click To See It

if the installed height gives you that, go with it, post how it turns out

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

The spring specs look good. With that much valve lift go ahead and have .100" taken off the top of the valve guide for retainer clearance. Use whichever retainer is listed for 7 degree locks.

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Joshua

If I remember... Finding retainers that fit the small spring top and the 3/8" valve stem was a challenge, the last time I install beehive springs on a SL6 head.
DD

Thanks Joshua, just the info I was looking for!

Doug, I might need to use smaller or reduced stem valves. Trying to keep custom parts at a minimum, but custom valves appear unavoidable. Valve suggestions welcome (somewhere in the typical range of 1.7\1.4 I\O is what I'm looking for.)

Such a valuable resource, I appreciate you all!!
-Chris

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'68 Barracuda - taking advice on increasing street torque, power, & road handling. Click To See It

Not sure what you are trying to accomplish, but personally I have run the stock 340 V8 springs with stock retainers and they work well with that cam. That cam is pretty close to a stock 340 cam. Cheap and easy. Yes, you might want to take some off the valve guide and cut them for positive valve seals.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

SI Valves are in the size you want and are a drop in. 340 Springs and retainers are fine, cheap and readily available. Sounds like that is all you need. Nothing custom other than a little larger valve seat when they install the valves.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I bought a set of these for my first build, and they have served the first Lou build I did and
now that head is on the Aspen engine. The guides and valves have about 90K miles on them
and no noticeable wear on the bronze guides and stems (and lots of high rpm hyperpak runs).

The set I got had the stems turned down noticeably about 1" from the back of the valve head up the stem.

At one point I was looking at performance coatings for pistons and other components and wanted to
inquire with SI about a set of their Black Knight coated valves, but after much building I don't think
they would offer much advantage over traditional valves especially with our small bores and shrouding.