So are you putting these on Ruster???

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Probably at some point.. I don't think there are funds for it now, but when I am not working on stuff due to lack of money I am designing stuff in my head and researching the prices and feasibility of stuff.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Check out Mark's Lancer next time you see it. 6 injectors is pretty cool.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Here is some info on the Redline and Clifford. I went out to the garage and did some measuring on the two manifolds since they are both in my garage and off the engines now. The Redline is my new one untouched other than I ran some drum rolls over the ports to clean up some slag. The Clifford is the one off Ryan's race car (Seymours) that was port matched to the new cylinder head that Ryan had built. I do not know any more than that.

This shows the difference in length from the face of the head to the carbs. The Redline is 6" long and the Clifford is 4 1/2" Here you can see that the Redline comes out from the head a lot more straight than the Clifford. The Redline Manifold is also 20 1/4" overall length and the Clifford is 22". This extra 1 3/4" is the reason for the dog legs in the Clifford. I don't suspect they hurt anything by seeing how well Seymour's car ran!! But the extra width and the way the manifold swings to the outside on each end does create a problem for your headers. Seymour had these beautys made and they are sweet looking. You can see how they curve to clear the Webers. My front three tubes clear the Redline manifold, but the rear 2 tubes hit because they swing towards the front before they head down and under the car. I find it just a bit odd that Clifford makes manifolds and headers and their own headers will not work with their own manifolds. And it is not just the Clifford Weber manifold. I have a like new set of the Clifford big tube race headers for my Valiant, and they will not even fit with the Clifford 4 barrel manifold.

Next I measured the port size. The Redline ports 1.208 wide X 1.29 High. The Clifford which I know have been worked over some are the same width 1.208 x 1.55 high. Cross sectional area is 1.872 sq in. for the Clifford compared to 1.558 sq.in. for the Redline. obviously they are running the same Carburetors so the restriction is at the cylinder head side and it is only in the height of the runners. The actual wall thickness is close .250 on the Redline so there is room to open the ports up to close to what the Clifford has.

My plan is to open up the height of my manifold to something close to the Clifford. Unless someone has a reason not to??

Also if the ports are opened up to be of comparable size do you see one of these manifolds as being a better performer? Will the longer Redline manifold and straighter runners perform better than the Cliffords shorter but slightly more crooked runners.

Hope the info helps someone.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Check with http://www.piercemanifolds.com - they list a kit with carbs, perhaps they can be persuaded to sell only the manifold.

Thanks for the Info Rick and Pierre!

Dennis - I have seen the Goodman Mobile - I have some Ideas floting around that might be waay cheaper and more tunable than DCOE 45's or 48's.

Much appreciated.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Rick,

If there is material there, I would open up the ports.

I am also slooowwwly working toward an IR EFI setup with a custom manifold, or maybe the Clifford manifold...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

More info on the Redline manifold and a Me too! for wanting an injected side draft slant:

The Redline manifold looks just like the Cain triple Weber I had sent from Australia years ago.
For a while I was on a kick of having stuff shipped from overseas. Leo Geoghegan DVDs, die cast cars, period magazines...



I have looked at the Inglese Weber style throttle bodies and they are willing to make linkage for the slant manifold spacing.

Inglese, now a Comp cams companyhttp://www.ingleseinductionsystems.com/


For a more cost effective option I will probably use my Lynx twin SU manifold with TWM throttle bodies.
I’m gathering the mega squirt components.


That’s just a mock-up of a pair of Neon throttlebodies which don’t hold injectors.


https://www.borlainduction.com/2700-series.html

I don’t want to cut the hood of the next engine swapped BMW.

Jason
‘64 Valiant = GRM Challenge turned LeMon
Retired Slant swapped E30 Pushbutton
Future LeMon= / swapped into an E36 M3

The west coast 24 Hours of LeMons team Dudes Ex Machina that ran a Scamp used two Weber DCNVA dual 36mm down draft carbs.

Warning! The following images may be painful for some.
The sad story of their car is here:http://www.roadkill.com/birth-life-deat ... ant-scamp/

I just noticed the other Valiant team that raced at CMP also lost the #1 rod, like I did after a few races with the cast crank motor swapped into the BMW. Usually it’s #6 that I see has windowed the block in junkyard motors. We shut it down before real damage was done so unlike team Squatting Dog, our motor will live again.



Jason
No longer starved for oil

Thanks for the tour, Jason! The wheels are turning...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

We also threw a #1 rod in the only slant we ever blew up, but it was a worn-out example from a parts car that didn't make good oil pressure. We never should've raced it like that, but we were out of time.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

Interesting. I always thought folks had #2 or #5 let go. It was #2 for the only one I have grenaded.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I never threw one, but in my early slant days, I caught #5 bearing a few times. Also saw several in bone yards with number 5 gone.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I rattled a #1. #5 usually goes and knocks the starter off.

My Valiant has a dent from the inside out in the driver side fender where a #5 came out once.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Working on the same problem here.

Been loosening up rods on both ends half of last season and already once this season. Appears to be oil starvation on top of too much tach (the over taching being my own fault of course). In that the middle rods're doing OK, I'm figuring flow rather than pressure. Going to open up the passages a bit on 1&4 main feeds, and round off a bunch of corners this time around.

Also considering a higher volume pump. Any recommendations?

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Sex, drags, and rock & roll.
Dick, 225% crazy.
Hobby (cars, that is) Photos link