Hi I have a dodge sweepline just fitted electronic ignition but engine is very lumpy at low revs even worse when I have truck in drive just fitted plug leads but should I have changed the coil

What sort of electronic ignition did you fit, exactly? Is the lumpy tickover new since the electronic ignition install, or were you trying to fix the rough running with the new ignition?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

You don't say what your working on, do you have the old style Voltage Reg. in there? If so, I bet that's your problem. READ. http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Elec ... arging.htm Good Luck

Hi thanks for the response it's made by standard don't know any part number only started having problem after about 100 miles of having electronic ignition fitted

Hi truck has the newer style regulator which is only a few weeks old

Do you have access to an Ignition Automotive Analyzer that measures coil and spark plug wire voltage on the scale called "spark output"?
Such as as antique:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Sears-Automoti ... .l4275.c10

The modern day equivalent would be similar to:

https://www.amazon.com/TA100-Smartach-W ... B000RT9BH2

Identify the setup and there will be a corresponding Spark Voltage you should be seeing:

Such as:
1) Chrysler Electronic with .035 spark plug gap and 7mm wires (6.5 KV)
2) HEI with .035 spark plug gap with 8.5 mm wires ( 5.5 KV)
3) HEI with .045 spark plug gap with 8.5 mm wires (10.5 KV)
etc.

If you see something like 20 to 30 KV you may have a high secondary circuit resistance that needs addressing...
etc.

So a few numbers on a coil wire and a few spark plug wires could point in a direction....or not.

The same analyzer would measure resistance in ohms.
So if looking for a high secondary resistance such as the coil wire you might be looking for .4 ohms and measure 2 ohms....not a good thing but you would only know if you had a shop manual to determine what was required by factory specs.


One of your buddies might have the old analyzer collecting dust and be thrilled to see you put it to use?

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1965 Dart 110k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exh., sbp manual scarebird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 14 x 4.5 OEM wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throwout bearing, HEI, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump. http://plymouthcarclub.com/

I'm guessing you fitted a Standard № LX-812, which is (one way or another) a Pertronix kit priced ridiculously high ($210 in America):


If it ran fine for 100 miles and then began running rough, odds look good (bad) for improper presence/value of a ballast resistor (see kit instructions) or a coil or distributor cap/rotor pushed over the edge by the hotter ignition system. Cap/rotor quality matters quite a lot; read this entire thread.

Other questions worth answering: what spark plugs are you running, did you know/remember the plugs' metal ring washers need to be removed before installing them, and what's the rest of the engine's state of tune, including its tappet clearance adjustment? Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this thread. Carburettor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads are posted here for free download.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Hi thanks for all the help I've already ordered a new dizzy cap coil looks a bit old so I might buy a new one and I'll take it from there