I'm sure this has been thoroughly discuss somewhere and I'm just not looking in the right place for it, but... What is the cut off on interchangeable parts on the 225's. I have a 1965 225, motor actually runs really well, but has a crack between the two lower freeze plugs on the left side of the block. I know there was a change in the blocks and cranks, then eventually in the heads (hydraulic) thru the years. What blocks can I use that will allow me to keep my rotating assembly. I also am familiar with the pilot bearing size change thru the years, but not sure how that will play on me. I know if I keep my crank, the converter won't give me any issues, (already a match setup). If changing the crank has to be an option, will the newer converter work on the 65 transmission. From my understanding it won't due to internal changes to the input shaft and pump shaft.

Some of the more old fashioned machine shops can actually repair that block by hammering pins into the crack. But it may be prudent to disassemble the whole engine to have it checked for other cracks. Of course, replacing the block would probably be cheaper in the long run. Depending on where you are located, I have a good 1974 225 block that's been bored .030" over. Slants switched over to cast cranks around 1976, and the block has just enough differences that the forged crank you have won't fit.

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

Any pre-76 forged crank 225 block will work. If you are swapping cranks you don't have to worry about the crank pocket size change in 67/68.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

A thought, if you are as broke as I was in the late 70's.... I had a Brand X station wagon with a straight 6 that developed a cracked block. I wire brushed the area down to bare metal and slobbered JB weld all over. It ran for several more years before I sold the car, and it never leaked a drop. I'm sure there are many valid reasons you might not want to go down this path, but it worked for me.

If the crack just goes between two freeze plugs, then I would definitely consider some kind of patch job. After all, the crack's got nowhere else to run.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

I would flush the cooling system and use block seal. Be prepared to replace the thermostat as block seal does a real good job sealing anything that leaks air.

Where crack is located between freeze plugs brazing may work. Easy to do, "V" out crack about half through casting, and fill with brass. That area is not subjected high thermal or structural stress unless you had a hard freeze up. Repair can probably be performed with engine in car.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

If you end up not being able to save the block.....


Consider giving it to a Forum Member to Create a Honing Plate



Best of Luck!



Greg

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Good points, guys. If the crack runs between the two freeze plugs, I'd patch it with brass or JB Weld and keep running it.

b

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