In the last 6 months 2 times the car would not start and 2 times it just quit running checked no spark. First time wiggled wires smacked coil and ICM and viola car started. Second time let car sit before working on it and before checking anything I cranked it over and it started. Changed coil third time car started. Forth time it quit running right when I was leaving work had to get towed. Went out this morning to look for problem turned key to crank over a couple of different times and nothing, turned on ING to see if I was getting power to ICM and was so I cranked it over again and viola it started. Question is Bad ICM or what? Electrical is not my strong suit and this is my daily driver but won't be if I can't get it fixed.

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my first 6 1973 Plymouth Duster

Make sure your ECM has a good ground where it is bolted down. You can add another ground wire to it to make sure. The coils you changed were they all bad?

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If all you did was turn the switch off and then back on to check for power and you had power, I would suspect my ignition switch was a part of the problem? Maybe?

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Mine would not start intermittantly similar to yours. I found a loose pickup coil, it would move
about 1/32 inch. Glued with epoxy and so far working good. Also checked gap and was good.

Same time i replaced distributer cap, rotor and spark plug wires that looked ok but went 40k miles.
That really helped engine start faster too.

Checked ground cleaned it up so good to go, second coil was brand new but that doesn't mean it's good

Replaced ING switch about 8 months ago. Can always go bad.

No spark from coil so not Dist.

Well deciding it was a bad module and having most of the parts I went with changing over to HEI and put everything together but before all the final wiring I was able to get it running to warm it up so the crossover would be easier to start the car. Well so far everything is working fine car starts and runs only time will tell if it was the module of if I'm going to be chasing something else down.

Thanks for your input.

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my first 6 1973 Plymouth Duster

Start-run relay, on the left fender somewhere. Multiple failures on our 9+ (74-75-76) Darts. The contacts inside get burnt and go intermittent or let only a trickle of amps through. "Standard" part number SR105T, cheap. My first choice, and easiest to replace, but disconnect the battery ground first.

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"Louise", a 1976 Dart Custom project, (now sadly reverted to being just an "organ donor" to our other project Darts.)

This would cause it to quit running while driving?

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my first 6 1973 Plymouth Duster

On a different angle.....Check your reluctor gap.
Rattle distributor shaft back and forth when you make the gap check
Post results.

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1965 Dart 110k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exh., sbp manual scarebird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 14 x 4.5 OEM wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throwout bearing, HEI, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump. http://plymouthcarclub.com/

"This would cause it to quit running while driving?"
Absolutely, and proven to me more than once.

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"Louise", a 1976 Dart Custom project, (now sadly reverted to being just an "organ donor" to our other project Darts.)

On the '76s there is a yellow wire that is part of the ignition circuit that tends to break or insulation at the fire wall plug... I don't have a 1973 wiring diagram handy
to see if that's still the case previous to 76, but on day taking a bounce killed my ignition on the highway one day and caused a really nice head scratcher.. luckily I had a
spare harness and replaced that wire...

Something to think about...