Hi just remove my clutch and flywheel to replace pilot bearing and noticed cracks in the flywheel near all bolt holes.
As well as what looks like a custom bushing from a previous owner.
Should I be concerned and purchase a new flywheel?
Cheers

It looks to me like someone adapted a late (68 and newer) flywheel to an early (67 and older) engine. The early flywheels, and flexplates (auto) are getting hard to find. I would be concerned about those cracks. I would try to find a early flywheel.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

There's no way I'd use that f/w. Personally, I'd go to an OZ steel one anyway. Pricey, but can be had to fit, and are new steel rather than old cast iron.

I actually did that cobble once, but welded the "adapter" in place. "Interesting" weld, but no problems.

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Sex, drags, and rock & roll.
Dick, 225% crazy.
Hobby (cars, that is) Photos link

If you can't find one locally (what's your zip code so we can define "local"?), I have a spare 11" clutch style flywheel I could part with for a few bucks + shipping, but it has the late model large crank register. Let me know if you need it.

Hi thanks duster but biggest issue is I'm in Australia. Postage would be a killer.
Can't find any info on Oz Steel. Anyone have a link to them?
Mine is a 65 engine in a d100 with an A833 o/d.

Since you don't have anything to lose, grind the cracks down to see if they stop.

Then decide what to do.

I also would remove the pressed in ring and chamfer the hole so no crack could propagate from there.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Here y'go ......

https://www.hemiperformance.com.au/shop ... wheel.html

_________________
Sex, drags, and rock & roll.
Dick, 225% crazy.
Hobby (cars, that is) Photos link

The cracks are visible from both sides emsvitil so guess I've got a good paper weight.
Thanks for the link Old6rodder. I have already called them and they are looking into it for me. I wasn't aware there's are called Oz Steel.
As this is for a truck D100 it currently has a 172 tooth fly wheel and so they are looking into a custom one for me to suit my starter.

Just my slang, not likely in the dictionary.

Cool, hope they can come through for you.

_________________
Sex, drags, and rock & roll.
Dick, 225% crazy.
Hobby (cars, that is) Photos link

If you are in the Gold Coast your living in the same area as a guy named Kevin Kent. He has a Worksop at 41 Ward Street Southport. He is a Mopar tragic/all arund good honest guy and is mainly a high performance builder and fabricator these days, but he has stuff sitting there in his “collections” that’s quite amazing. I’d go and see him as first option. If he doesn’t have anything he may well know of someone who can help, he knows a lot of people in the Mopar scene. Hemi Performance run an unusual set up. They are near you at an undisclosed location , kind of like an Area 51 of Chrysler parts. He may be able to help but see Kev first. I’d go to Penta$tar $pares as a last option. This includes walking and horse drawn carriage as a preference.

I'd like to see a picture of the adapter you have of how that transmission bolts to your bellhousing, if you have a moment to
take a picture of it.

I'd be much appreciative.

The previous owner did all the work.
from what i can gather its a 1961-1968 DODGE TRUCK HYDRAULIC BELL HOUSING 2235714-1 318 LA318 POLY SLANT SIX.
This looks to be all the modification to the bellhousing.
He has drilled and tapped 2 holes for the bottom of the gearbox to mount to. Possibly had to do the top 2 as well. There's a custom cross member under the gearbox as well .

The strange thing is he did all this work and used what appears to be a wheel barrow bearing as a pilot bearing. If that had not failed i would have been non the wiser to the condition of the flywheel.

WOW ! Genius - work with what you have.. but not good on longevity.

That's crazy - Good thing you found that!

Cheers mate,

Greg

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1. I would toss that FW asap.
2. My guess is, since the cracks are on the inner diameter of the FW, (lower centrifugal forces?) they may not be of huge concern in normal use.
3. I suspect you will never see a FW with similar cracks from the outside edge, radiating inward, as it would have already failed. others can chime in.
4. Did i mention to toss the FW?