Helllo,

Does anyone have access to a crank scraper that is out of the engine?

If so Can you provide the measurement in between the arrows in the picture:



Also a measurement from pan rail edge to the Bolt hole center would be good too.
I have just installed mine and forgot to take these measurements.

Additionally if you take a picture of said part a ruler in the shot close to the edge that can help with my project.


Many thanks!


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I have a couple of crank scrappers, on the shelf, but if I recall, they are for the 170. Not sure if the overall dimensions, are the same, as the stroke is different. If no one else posts, I'll measure mine, later today.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I'll take some photos of mine for you Greg.

_________________
Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

Ooh Thanks Sages..

I guess that I did not think of the stroke or crankpin throws.
How many varations of the scraper would there be for the stock type cranks and blocks?

(EDIT): 4?
RG 225 with Cast 225 crank
RG 225 with 225 crank (forged)
RG 198 with 198 crank (forged)
G 170 with 170 Crank (forged)

My project for now involves a 225 with a 225 crank.
Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I would think the cast crank 225 one is different from one for a forged crank also.

_________________
There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

The critical dimension is the clearance between the scraper and the crank or maybe the rod bolts. The important thing is that it doesn't slide around once it is in the right place. I think I secured mine with a couple of pop rivets in blind holes I drilled after it was lined up.

_________________
If you didn't drive it there, it's not a street car.

Good Call Scott and Seymour.

I usually RTV mine to the block, let it set overnite and then continue with tray and pan install. Also with 4 studs replacing the pan bolts I have had no Problems.

I need a putty knife and razor blades to remove the thing upon disassembly.

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Mine is forged 225/225, but I’m running K1 rods. I don’t know that Mike made different versions. Dennis?

Still can’t add pics. I just emailed them to you.

_________________
Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

John has all of Mike's patterns.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

if Mike J had two patterns, then yes I have both of them

this is the one that looks like what Greg has in the photo.

Greg, if this is not close enough of a measurement let me know and I will put a caliper on it.

_________________
Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Many thanks John, Rob!


Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

The dimension shown is 3 1/16 for a 170 engine.
PS: I haven't used it yet, but my 170 scraper has a up, and a down piece. One for each side, with different configuration.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Further discussion should be posted here
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... 32&t=62341

I would assume that if I could get good Pictures of the 170 Up and Down side with a ruler in the Picture for reference I could digitize them as well.

Greg

_________________
http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

How are you guys sealing all this up? Two pan gaskets, gluing it together.....?

_________________
“Buy the ticket, take the ride.”
― Hunter S. Thompson

Greg, I'm not real good with pictures. But the game plan is to be at motor mile. If you remind me, I'll bring it with me, and you can do pics and measurements.

_________________
Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225