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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2004 6:13 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2003 6:05 am
Posts: 115
Location: Wichita, KS
Car Model:
How can I find the rubber piece that holds the pushrod in the master cylinder?

I am converting to disc brakes in the front. I have a new master cylinder from a '75 Dart with disc brakes, and the original pushrod from the '71 drum setup. The new master cylinder didn't come with the rubber part. The parts store I got the MC from can't find one. They say I don't need it, but I think I read somewhere in bold print that you must have it! Seems like you would need it. If the pushrod fell out of the hole, you would have no brakes!!!

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 Post subject: Yes - you need that part
PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2004 8:18 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2003 9:42 pm
Posts: 358
Location: San Diego, California
Car Model:
It is my understanding that the power brake setup keeps the pushrod
captive with a second pushrod from the booster. However on a manual
brake setup you need the extra parts to keep the pushrod captive.

There is a Mopar Performance pushrod kit for the fancy aluminium
Mopar Performance master cylinders. I am not sure if that kit will
fit a stock master cylinder though. I know Summit Racing can order
the kit (DCC-5249316AB) - maybe their techies can tell you if it would
fit.

I would also ask your favorite auto parts store if there is a pushrod
kit for manual brakes available for your master cylinder. The parts
must be available somewhere - since the rebuilders still get them.
in a pinch you might order a
complete master cylinder for Manual Brakes that specifies it
contains the pedal rod assembly (some of Car Done Reman
units have this note).

Good Luck.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2004 8:30 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2003 6:05 am
Posts: 115
Location: Wichita, KS
Car Model:
The master cylinder is for a '75 Dart with manual disc brakes. The piece I need is just like a big fat O-ring. I don't think the MC I have is a Cardone unit. I guess I could ask for a cardone unit with the pushrod assembly. Maybe I'll get lucky! Thanks.

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'71 Dart Swinger


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2004 10:40 am 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2003 7:54 pm
Posts: 341
Location: Oregon
Car Model:
Try Greg Z. at www.magnumhp.com as I think he is reproducing those rings. Mopar stopped selling them for some reason.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2004 1:03 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2003 6:05 am
Posts: 115
Location: Wichita, KS
Car Model:
Thanks Andy, I'll shoot him a message!

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'71 Dart Swinger


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2004 2:01 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 1:57 pm
Posts: 2216
Location: Everett, WA
Car Model:
A master cylinder rebuild kit should have the rubber O ring and the rubber boot. I would like to know where to get the spring that goes over the rubber boot.

That high prices "fancy" aluminum master cylinder comes stock on Volares and Aspens and is about about $35 in the parts store. It costs about $3 to make an adapter for the 2 bolt to 4 bolt mounting point.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2004 2:40 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2003 2:37 pm
Posts: 4194
Location: CA
Car Model:
The rubber grommet is a safety item. The stop light switch will stop your pedal from coming back far enough for the rod to fall out. So unless the switch shatters or the bracket holding it in place bends its not likely the pedal will come out. Still good insurance though.

The aluminum MC at parts stores are only availible rebuilt (which means iron sleved, which ruins the point of getting aluminum in the first place) in my experience. The new parts store replacments are iron units. Be careful, because some of the rebuilt parts store units are also iron (someone probably returned a previously new one as a core). The only sure fire way to get a new aluminum unit is to order from dealer or the MP unit for $100.

I use the AREngineering $40 adapter with a kragen rebuilt aluminum master. It came with the rubber keeper ring. I didn't want to fuss with making the adapter, and plus this is a nice unit, comes with the studs and good nuts.

MagnumHP has the ring for $3 including shipping.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2004 3:07 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2004 12:02 am
Posts: 73
Location: Charlotte, NC
Car Model:
I converted a '66 satellite over to 4 wheel disc brakes with the kit from Stainless Steel Brakes. It didn't come with that piece either. I just ended up going to the local parts house, and found a rubber hose that looked about the right size, and cut off about 1 inch of the rubber tubing. the parts house just gave it to me for free. It was a really tight fit going it, but i'm sure it won't come out on it's own.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 29, 2004 3:35 pm 
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Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2003 2:37 pm
Posts: 4194
Location: CA
Car Model:
Thats the only downside to removing them... you have to disassemble the rod from the pedal and pull it out with the master, put the rod in a vice, and bang away to seperate them.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 30, 2004 5:19 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2003 6:05 am
Posts: 115
Location: Wichita, KS
Car Model:
I like Creamed Possum's idea about the rubber hose. I need the car on the road this weekend, so that's probably what I'll do. Thanks to everyone for their help. This is the last piece to complete my dics brake conversion.

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'71 Dart Swinger


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2004 5:41 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Oct 06, 2003 6:05 am
Posts: 115
Location: Wichita, KS
Car Model:
The piece of rubber hose worked great! I couldn't find the boot, but it doesn't look like it's really needed.

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'71 Dart Swinger


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2004 3:18 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Mon Mar 01, 2004 12:02 am
Posts: 73
Location: Charlotte, NC
Car Model:
the boot and spring on mine where barely even there, they were flat and falling apart. they had been like that for awhile, so i can't imagine it hurts not having them, i never reinstalled new ones, and i've been going about 6k miles on it so far.

Nick


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