I agree. Confirm those readings with a screw in compression gauge. Throttle wide open.

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“Buy the ticket, take the ride.”
― Hunter S. Thompson

Also 82 should be a hydraulic lifter motor. If the truck has sat or been neglected it could have some sticky lifters. Get it running and add a quart of marvel mystery oil into the crankcase. Let it run for a while and get good and hot. I have been able to free up gummy hydraulic lifters seceral times with MMO.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I don't intend to. The decision at the moment is if I'm going to pull the motor and go through it, or just fix the timing chain with the engine in place. I'm leaning toward pulling the engine. I am a card-carrying member of the VCC (Vertically Challenged Club), working on this thing is a pain even standing on a stool. The fenders come up to my armpits.

Good news, I found the new screw-in compression tester! And of course, it was right where it should have been in the automotive tool drawer. I wonder what dirty dog hid it from me earlier?

New compression readings will be coming later today with the screw-in tester.
Agreed, I believe it is. Sadly, it's not running at all, so trying to free up the maybe-stuck lifter isn't an option.

Don't feel bad. I am 6'4" and even I have to do some gymnastics to servide the slant in my 76 D100. My 82 Ramcharger is a 4x4 so it sits even higher. I have to stand on a stool to really work on that engine.

I recommend trying the timing chain with the engine in the truck. Go in from the bottom or just pull the radiator and grille and go in the front. Removing and installing the engine is a lot of work. It would be nice if it could be avoided.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

Good news! After some time stalled out on the project (and I'm sure I'm the only one on the forum to experience this issue...) I got a good compression check. I found the screw-in model, and all holes were remarkably consistent. I read each cylinder several times, at both closed throttle and WOT. All readings were the same. It took three cycles to get to full compression, with each cycle being within 5 PSI in every cylinder. First spin was about 85, second about 115, and third about 140. It looks like this thing is fairly healthy.

Bad News! It is leaking oil like a stuck pig. When I pushed it in the shop, I set some cardboard under the motor for drips. That turned into a 20" oil slick, generated only by spinning the engine for the compression checks. The worst of it is coming from the bell housing, so I'm assuming it's the rear main seal. However, that's no comfort as it's leaking all over. This engine is coming out to get a once-over.

Having consulted a couple of gurus, I'm going to check out the internal health of this when it's on the stand, mostly to make sure what I think is happening, is really happening. If in good shape, I'm going to leave the long block alone. Even if I built this up a bit, it's still a two-ton brick that will never scoot with authority. All seals and gaskets will be replaced, and I will add the super-six setup with a 2-1/4" exhaust. Otherwise, it will remain stock assuming there are no gremlins in hiding.

The next step will take a bit of time, but I will start disconnecting things in the very near future to yank the engine.

Wish me luck, it's been over 40 years since I got into an engine. And that one blew up when I couldn't figure out where that extra wire went (it was the oil pressure sending unit). Add that to a leaky oil pan plug, and.........Kablooey! Engine parts all over the interstate!

Hey Zach,

Did you ever get anywhere with this? I'd just about kill for a manual slant D150.

~THOR~

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1984 D100 Shorty Custom
Certified Auto Appraiser - RevItUp Classic Appraisals
President - Cherry City Bombers CC
Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Hey Bobby,
No, I got stalled out on the project, it's been sitting. I will shoot you a PM with my contact info if you're interested in the truck. I may part ways with it.