I seal it by making sure the block rail and the pan rail are flat and clean, then I just use Ultra Black or similar to seal it. Best to drill 2 holes in the block rail to locate the scraper with a roll pin or similar, then clearance grind everything. Then after you have the alignment right, pull it apart, seal it and put the pan on in one step. You use the end rubber gaskets fore and aft and if you have a 2 pc scraper you delete the side gaskets and use permatex. if you have a 1 piece scraper then you use 1 of the side gaskets on the other side.

Best,
Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

I just use 4 studs in place of the stock pan bolts. No pinnin or drillin needed.

Sealing procedure as Lou says.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Thanks Lou and Greg.

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“Buy the ticket, take the ride.”
― Hunter S. Thompson

What do you guys think the minimum thickness of steel should be for a scraper? I made mine up from some pretty thin, 24 gauge steel which is pretty thin but seems relatively stiff once bolted down to the block. I wonder if the concern might be fatigue over time from vibration or the oil being pulled from the crank flexing the scraper and it eventually cracking and wrapping around my crank assembly or at best falling into the pan. I noticed that my recently acquired (Thanks Rick Covalt) Mopar tray is 18 gauge which would probably do the trick for the scraper as well.

So, those of you that have made up your own scraper, what thickness steel did you use? What about aluminum in .050" or .0625"? Looks like I may have a nice 24 gauge steel scraper pattern now.

_________________
“Buy the ticket, take the ride.”
― Hunter S. Thompson