This is correct, you get a gold star. Be careful in remarking the damper, I have seen guys swear by using a chisel to imprint the outer ring only to break a scab off or break it...

If you go more than 100, you might be able to advance 2 teeth and retard back with a bushing FYI.


Lou's formula works for the larger cams like this one, but even at 102 you will have plenty of grunt down low with your rear ratio in city driving... for builders using
a smaller cam and higher compression ratios, it is good to use the DCR calculator to determine if advancing the cam this far will work with your daily driving budget
and higher octane pump gas...FYI.

DI:
When I checked compression during time when trying to start engine for first time, cylinder pressures were around 120 ish, can't find the paper I scribbled those tests on.

Using static compression calculator with following parameters:
3.440" bore
4.125" stroke
40cc head volume
.170 down in hole
3.50" gasket bore (Fel-Pro) I swaged this number
200 feet above sea level

Static compression ratio = 9.68:1

Using dynamic compression calculator for center line of: 100* 101*102* with above:
100* = 9.06:1.
101* = 8.93:1
102* = 8.98:1
all three produce effective compression ratio at around 188 psi

First are my calculations correct?
Second will this thing run on pump gas?
If not on pump gas, what would be needed to fix this problem?

Good news for all of my small engines and 300C, local Sunoco station has retreated to just two octane grades of fuel eliminating 89 from the mix, which is what the 300C is specked for, all three grades were watered down with 10% ethanol. Now the selection is 87 blended with 10% ethanol, and 93 ethanol free... Real 100% gasoline! When the ethanol edict hit, the 300C dropped 3 mpg on the highway, and all my small engines ran like crap.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Your calcs are off because most DCR programs use the advertised duration, not duration @.050... so you are high on DCR...
Once degreed in at 100 you will be able to run on midgrade. If your original calcs had been correct, you would be stuck
using 92-93 octane.

Mostly this warning was for onlookers that think they can run a high compression motor with a small cam on pump gas...
or those that say running super is fine for their street build, then when gas prices go up ask how to detune the engine
to run a lower grade...

Thanks DI.

USPO, emphasis on PO'ed, mislead me on delivery date of bushings; now coming Saturday. Who knew first class mail from Delaware to Cincinnati to Bangor Maine would take 5 days.

Second big concern is during removal of chain cover after balance being pulled, one of its bolts entered water jacket and an unknown quantity of coolant made its way to the oil sump. Probably less than a half ounce dribbled in before I could get a finger positioned to direct flow away from end of crank.

I hate to drain oil where sump is filled with five quarts of expensive Brad Penn. If I were to bleed off a quart or so would most of the coolant find its way out the drain? Engine crank has not been moved since baptizing took place.

During removal of cover, all but one of the little tits of rubber pan gasket which keep it aligned and attached to cover broke off so it won't stay in place. I have a new one coming, and a new paper gasket on hand. When installing rubber gasket should I place a dab of oil tolerant silicon on its ends where it intersects with paper gasket after copious cleaning of surfaces of oil? It looks as if engine builder had added a dab of something to seal its ends.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Water is heavier than oil, so if you left it sitting long enough to settle out (hours?), the water should come out the drain first. Especially if the nose of the car is elevated.

I would definitely use sealant where the rubber part of the oil pan gasket lays over the cork pieces. See the article here. Any oil-safe RTV should work.

_________________
Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

The problem is the drain plug isn't quite at the bottom of the oil pan so if there's only a few tablespoons in there you won't get it out. And if there's more some will still be left behind. I had a 225 with a small crack in between the bottom of cylinders 5 and 6. It ate coolant and it went into the crankcase, but I never saw it on the dipstick or in the drained oil. It never caused a problem other than loosing a little coolant and topping it off occasionally.

_________________
Joshua

Thanks Josh.

I'll just run it checking dip stick and underside of oil fill cap for mayo, or other signs I need to drain oil replace filter, and refill.

For those of you following this fiasco, my US Mail delivery babe dropped off a stack of "junk mail" and no bushings...

I checked USPS tracking site, it's going to be delivered by 8pm today. Oh sure, and NYC is having a frost later this afternoon... For those of you nationally weather challenged, Big Apple is headed for 100* today.

Up-dated info: package left Cincinnati OH June 27, surfaced in Columbia, SC June 29, and is now in transit to next processing center... probably Fairbanks AL. What an outfit.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

I must say this government indued car project delay has afforded time to get caught-up on weed control in front yard.

I'll be damned, the following message front and center on USPS tracking site:
Well they sure as hell missed the "by 8:00 pm Saturday delivery time", and just as I predicted, no frost in NYC last night.

Only another 140 miles to go. These monkeys may get this 8 ounce first class package to me by the 4th, with only a two day window, Monday or Tuesday, to be able to stuff that thing in my RFD oversized officially oversized mail box, perched on a 4x4 PT wooden post at the last lot on a dead-end road.

Stay tuned:
Will the parts arrive before Thanks Giving just in time to put car back in storage?
Will engine run as is should, not run hot, and still be able to turn over after a short shut-down & heat soak?
Will there be enough Maine Summer remaining to work on my tan?


In the mean time, back to killing weeds, in particular wild strawberry, a blight consuming an acre of my front lawn, and seemingly impervious to 2-4D.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

It hasn't departed USPS Regional Destination Facility yet...………………...

_________________
Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Looks like it is sitting in Scarborough, Maine, in a pile, waiting for Sunday to wear off so it can be driven up I-95 to the Bangor Sorting Facility from there to Brewer PO, than out for RFD, hopefully on Monday; Mailarella lands at my driveway by noon. We'll see.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Don't get your hopes up!!

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Parts finally showed up Monday, it was mid afternoon before timing gear was removed & drilled to receive 3* bushing.

Before starting any disassembly with piston at TDC, I checked position of stamped "o" mark on crank gear in relation to "o" mark on cam gear. Crank mark faced cam gear, cam gear mark located at about 10 o'clock both marks with straight placed on them bisected center of cam gear attachment bolt. I than marked chain one link clock-ways in direction from cam gear's "o" mark thinking this would be a 7.2* advancing move. Cam gear has 50 teeth. From there cam gear was removed, drilled, test fitted with bushing and bushing with cam locating dowel to insure both accepted each other freely.

After an hour of screwing around trying to align cam gear and its dowel without good sight lines through grill and from floor it finally slipped into place and bolted down. Degree wheel was mounted, TDC located, wheel zeroed, and dial indicator riding on push rod re-calibrated with 0.300" preload. At which point intake valve event degree readings were taken at both .008" and .050" lift from base of cam.

My goal was to hit intake center line of 99* and intake opening @ 18* BTDC by jumping chain one tooth (+7.2*) by rotating cam gear clock-ways ahead with chain stationary on crank, plus addition of +3* bushing its fat side pointing in counter clock-ways direction relative to gear. This combo was to add ~10.2* to where cam was installed. Recall opening intake @.050" as installed by builder at 8*, cam card called for 13* a difference of -5* with a centerline of 104*

8*+7.2*+ 3*=18.2* or intake centerline of about 99*

I'm using Trick Flow's degree wheel kit: it looks like this

On the wheel, small print degree numbers represent valve events, large print numbers represent center line. Valve and center line event zones are mapped out on wheel.

Here, deep in the weeds, is where I'm at now and totally confused:

@ 0.050" BTDC intake opens at 42*
@ 0.050" ABDC intake closes at 11.5*
Center line = 72*

Any idea what when wrong? I'm beginning to get frustrated with this.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

The cam and sprocket need to turn counter-clockwise to advance the cam timing. It's just like the face of a clock. Earlier in the day, earlier intake valve closing are counter-clockwise.

I do not check the intake centerline using the opening and closing numbers. I find peak intake lift and then .050" down from peak lift on the opening and closing side of the #1 intake lobe. This is of course the second lobe from the front of the engine. I've accidentally used the exhaust lobe and had really screwy numbers. This is very much like using a piston top to find TDC. Half way between each .050" down measurement is the intake center line. Checking this against the opening and closing numbers is a fine idea, but those events are so far on the degree wheel from the intake centerline I feel it's easier to get lost. Using opening and closing points on a stock cam is easier as the opening and closing points aren't so far apart.

_________________
Joshua

Thanks Josh.

Having realized the quagmire I fell into, I decided to clear my head while mowing three acres of lawn. As the old noggin bounced around like a bobble head doll, the wrongly rotated direction realization dawned as a possible theory. Your timely conformation was welcome.

So it's move gear counter clock-ways two links, one to get back where I started, and the second to advance cam the 7.2* Bushing needs to be orientated so that its thick side is leading counter clock ways cam rotation direction, right?

It's all coming back, I'm remembering why I disliked dynamics class so many many moons ago.

Now to go help my long time old car buddy with his Citron 2CV's brake rebuild for a few hours. Any Steven King fans out there? Check out his tour biz, and wee bit of car porn.

Thanks again from Derry

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

X2 because I get lost easily too!!

_________________
2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6