I'm planning on a 4 wheel disc brake swap on my car this summer. Changing also to 15" or 16" x 8" 4.5" BC wheels. These are the three I'm considering.

http://www.wilwood.com/

http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com/

http://www.aerospacecomponents.com/

I drive an hour daily on the 5 freeway in LA and need the firepower to compete with all the antilock brake/cellphone talking/makeup applying/yelling at the kids in the backseat/6000lb SUV driving/late for work/hurrying home/think I'm all alone, insane califorina drivers.

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1965 Valiant 200 /6 2dr Sedan.
1965 Valiant 200 V8 4dr Wagon
1965 Barracuda /6
1965 Valiant Convertible V8

Due to the hassles of finding replacement parts, knowing what is really compatible, etc., I'd be hard-pressed to go with aftermarket parts for my Dart if I had to do it all over again. Especially since it is a daily driver.

However, in order to stay "competitive" with the modern traffic, drum brakes have to go. Better to do something than nothing.

Having said all that, I've been running the Stainless Steel Brakes A-153 4 piston caliper kit on my Dart since 2001. It is basically a copy of the Kelsey-Hayes fixed 4-piston caliper design of the late '60s/early '70s.

The kit involves drilling out the threads of one of the steering arm mounting holes (where the LBJ's steering arm bolts on)of a 10" drum brake spindle and affixing a 3/8" (?) adaptor that holds the SSBC caliper in place. A spacer (special washer) is used on the spindle. The kit comes with both 1/2" and 7/16" studs as well as both bolt circles drilled, so you can choose to use the 4.5" bp or the 4" bp.

I went with the 4" bolt pattern. My kit had some fitiment issues initially, and I had to grind some metal from one of the brackets to keep a rotor from rubbing. Also, the kit was advertised to work with 14" wheels, but did not work with the steel Mopar 14x4.5j wheels (factory steel wheels for use on disc brake cars). The brakes did clear, however with 14x7" aluminum slots, and also my current 14x7" American Racing Outlaw wheels.

The performance of the brakes is excellent (once dialed in with the proportioning valve). I can keep up with newer cars and definitely out-brake SUVs. For rear brakes, I'm using factory 10" x 1.75" drums.

For your reference, if you choose to use the SSBC kit:

SSBC rotor
SSBC master cylinder
SSBC cast iron calipers, stainless steel piston bore sleeves
SSBC branded prop. valve
SSBC pads, but I use Raybestos PGD-11 pads
For the caliper: '67 only Mustang dust boots and cylinder seals (Napa PN 518)
Inner bearing part numbers (Federal-Mogul/BCA): LM67048, race: LM67010 (or just SKF P/N BR6)
Outer bearing part numbers: LM11949, race: LM11910
Inner bearing oil seal part number (Federal-Mogul/National): 6815

Whatever you choose, just be careful of aftermarket stuff. I don't think most of it is as well designed/tested as factory stuff. If I had to do it all over again, I would probably go with the large-bolt Mopar disk swap.

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'68 Dodge Dart 4dr Sedan

I meant to include Aerospace Components in the vote list. We could add any other setup people are interested in.

Mike Andreas

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1965 Valiant 200 /6 2dr Sedan.
1965 Valiant 200 V8 4dr Wagon
1965 Barracuda /6
1965 Valiant Convertible V8

I'd go for the KISS approach and do it up with factory offerings:
73~76 spindles, 12" rotors, single piston sliders, aggressive organic pads or the cop/taxi spec pads, late model MC, prop valve, out back 10X2.5" drums with some aggressive linings and you'll be set.

I run this setup on my dart and i road race it. The performance is stunning. It will haul down from 65mph in about 140ft which isn't quite porsche territority, but better than most SUV's, trucks and pretty much on par with the econo-boxes.

If you're dead set on aftermarket i'd go for the Wilwood Dynalite II calipers on 12" rotors with the polymatrix D compound pads (they will squeak like a MOFO) but the performance is good. i'd still retain the stock rear drums in the 10X2.5 or if you're looking for absolute overkill go to 11X3. A set up like that once you're all said and done will perform a little better than the stock 73~76 stuff but will weigh in at about 1200bux

As for rear disks for street use... the only company that i'd suggest is TMS out of CO. they're a rod and custom bunch but they sell a kit for 8.75's (which could probably be made to fit a 8.25 if need be). i think that it runs somewhere in the 450 range w/ a parking brake and utilizes(sp) the standard GM metric stuff.

Just remember, no sense upgrading to some wild brakes if you're still rolling on 195/75/14's.... you'll need big sticky rubber to exploit the binders of your choice.

-JYH
64 Dart
69 Cuda
Former I-5 commuters... now terrorizing the 405, 101 and 110... heh heh
SoCal

Ill Chime in here......I agree with the stock approach for several reasons.

(1 Available everywhere

(2 The c-car brakes are so good/cheap along with stock 10" drums a aftermarket setup would have to be very reasonable to compete.

(3 Durability: they last and last. No squeals properly done.

(4 They fit

My 65 with the little unicast discs and 10" rears outstops everything else I own by a huge margin. The only thing I ever owned that stopped better was a Volvo 164E. However the maintenace costs on the Volvo brakes were prohibitive. If I could put as good brakes on my 91 Roadmaster SW with ABS for a similar price......

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I am running 14" x 5.5" SBC rally's, and 215 60 14" TA's now. Pretty good tire. Wear well. Not sticky enough. Sidewalls too soft for throwing it around. I'm probably going to 245 50 15"s. On 8" rims. I currently have:

KH front disc brakes
72 dart MC
MP proportioning valve to the rears
8 3/4 rear w/10x1.75 rear drums

I'll probably put the KH brakes on my wagon.

I have to admit I'm taken in by the wow factor (new and shiny ). I tend toward the KISS principle but slip into the KIRK principle from time to time "To boldly go where no man has gone before".

I'll probably spend a small bucket of money on paint and bodywork this summer. Since the car will be mostly apart anyway, It's the time to do it. I want to do what I can (afford) to make the car as capable as possible. Bracket racing was fun. Now I'm thinking "where can I shave a few pounds and find a few ponies". I'm planning on appilying as many of the tricks I've learned from this site as I can. Sub-frame connectors. Welded up the k-member. That kind of stuff. Who knows. SCCA SOLO-II? SOLO-I? Maybe some VARA events.

Maybe I should continue the incremental approach. Late a-body sliders would be an upgrade. Save some money there and spend it on springs and swaybars, wheels and tires, I'm also planning the whole turbo EFI thing this winter.

Still, aftermarket brakes are SOO cool looking

Mike

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1965 Valiant 200 /6 2dr Sedan.
1965 Valiant 200 V8 4dr Wagon
1965 Barracuda /6
1965 Valiant Convertible V8

Your car is very similar to mine Mike... I think you are right about spending the money on rims, tires, and sway bars as the more cost effective way to go. I have a PST sway bar, gas shocks, and the Unicast/10" setup on my car and find the car to be a real handling/stopping pleasure. I live 2.5 hours from the nearest stoplight or mall, so being able to get parts at my local NAPA is a real plus. Funny enough the biggest contributor to "WOW " factor with my car was the simple addition of a factory rally stripe. Talk about cost effective.

When I get my new motor together Ill be looking for ya.

http://www.arrowtipi.com/My%20Webs/index%20Valiant.htm

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

I love the stripe.

Mike

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1965 Valiant 200 /6 2dr Sedan.
1965 Valiant 200 V8 4dr Wagon
1965 Barracuda /6
1965 Valiant Convertible V8

I'll throw my lot in with the KISS. If you put the '73-76 Dart 11" discs on there with good quality parts, you'll be better off spending on tires/wheels/shox/bars. It's easy to upgrade to 12" discs later and you can test out the 11" on the track before you go up, which may not even be necessary. Pull some more weight outta that car and you'll be happy too.

Did you put an adjustable prop valve in the rear line yet? GOTTA do that and it'll have a big impact on braking efficiency.

I have the tsmmfg.com kit on my '64 and they work very well (get on it, eh JYH?). FYI, the Wilwood or Outlaw GM metric caliper replacements (aluminum) are about $70/side, so not too much more than the stock rebuilt GM stuff and a whole lot lighter.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Believe me, without a rear proportioning valve the car would be un-drivable. I have the rear turned way down since moving up to 10" x 1.75" rear drums. They still want to lock first. I should experiment with cylinder sizes.

Mike

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1965 Valiant 200 /6 2dr Sedan.
1965 Valiant 200 V8 4dr Wagon
1965 Barracuda /6
1965 Valiant Convertible V8

Huh! Thats funny. I grabbed all my stuff off a 76? Dart Disco Edition and it stops in a very balanced way with the factory prop valve. Just lucky I guess.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Well, if your brakes don't have any fade problems, I would say the most important steps to better stopping power are getting good and sticky tires, and using an adjustable proportioning valve to get the brakes well ballanced front to rear. Of course, the "wow" factor is definitely worth considering, but if your braked don't fade now, you probably won't get any more stopping power from an upgrade.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

I have a adjustible proportioning valve instead of a factory one. I was running 9" rears that needed help. The 10's that I have now work better and need less pressure. There wasn't a valve for the way my car was. I don't think there ever was front disc (KH) / rear 9" Drum factory setup. Things are trickier with 4" hubs.

Mike

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1965 Valiant 200 /6 2dr Sedan.
1965 Valiant 200 V8 4dr Wagon
1965 Barracuda /6
1965 Valiant Convertible V8

As things are now I have 215 60's and I can stand on the brakes with both feet and just barely get the fronts to lock up. With more tire I'll never use it all without more brakes. I spend an hour a day in vehicular combat just trying to get to work. The 5 freeway in LA is one of the worst in the world. What I really need is a Bradley. If I leave a car length between me and the car in front of me at 80 mph somebody is trying to squeeze into it. It's also the major corridor for trucks leaving the docks in Long Beach headed north and the "Ricers" drive like they've gotta get to the front of the line. I outta be driving something with 75 airbags but I won't. I like my car just fine thank you very much.

Thanks for hearing me rant. I feel better now. Really, I'm OK

Mike Andreas

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1965 Valiant 200 /6 2dr Sedan.
1965 Valiant 200 V8 4dr Wagon
1965 Barracuda /6
1965 Valiant Convertible V8

I hear ya man! I just sent my 2 sons age 21 and 19 to Detoit and Virginia with a big load. Scares me. My Valiant has 10" rear drums that match the 11" front discs. I guess this works because it all came from the same donor. I had to swap rear ends (and gears) to end up with a matched set. My car is probably 600lbs lighter than the donor car and better balanced. I can lock up all 4 but never come close to needing to. My commutor travel is 2.5 hours over winding mountain roads with 12% grades. Its about repeated hard stops.(slow to 20 Km , back up to 110, slow to 30km)I dont worry about other vehicles but deer and elk at this time of the year feed on the shoulders. We hit an elk a few years back in the Valiant at 110km/hr. Got the car fixed and went disc.

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....