One of my Jeffrey heads has Ford valves in it, the other one has Ferrea's.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Yikes! Not too much meat in there. I think I might just do a little blend work around the bowl and be satisfied with that. It's not going to be a high RPM engine.

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

Thanks! These look promising.

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

You cant shorten valves without wrecking the heat treatment on the tips....

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Hmmm, there goes that idea.

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

Longer valves are fine …..

On my Chev valve head I used Chev springs and keepers and locks. The shop machined the head to get the right spring height. After all was said and done I used some correct length Smith Bros pushrods to stay in the correct lash range on the rockers.

Note: My 1.72/1.50 valves were large enough that I chose to radius the chambers around the valves (Victoria Vertical mill). This is done before the machine shop does a bowl hog and valve grind.
A little carbide work and things start to look like one of Mikes heads.


mock it up …..cc the chambers...and decide how much to mill (either head or block) for compression

There is plenty of meat below the valve seats for a bowl hog. I asked the shop for a standard stock car bowl hog for the size of valves I supplied.

.100 may be fine ? You will need a valve job anyway and if they keep the new valves as high in the chamber as they can you will likely be fine. I'd try it.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I have 3-4 heads with Chevy 1.72/1.50 valves and they have done long service in road-driven and raced cars. You will need shorter pushrods, almost certainly, although you can get by with stockers for a little while. With stockers, and especially with a milled head, the rocker adjusters get near the end of their ranges and can back out - ever run a Slant 6 on 2-3 cyl down the hwy with some backed out/dropped/bent pushrods?

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Lee at SIValves said the SEV-2309-5 oversize exhaust valves and SEV-2310-5 intake valves won't be available until next year. I got to playing around on the interwebs and found an Elgin E1821b valve that might be promising, so I ordered a single valve to play with. Here's what they say about them:
OEM-style replacement exhaust valves for 1974-87 Ford 2300cc 140ci 2.3L SOHC engines with specs shown below. P/N E1821B. Valve specs are as follows:
Head Diameter: 1.500"
Stem Diameter: .3414"
Overall Length: 4.787"
Tip to Groove Length: .3779"
4-Groove Stem

Whaddaya think?

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

I have used these Sealed Power valves. They are originally for some various ford applications.
They will require new valve guides.
jus' sayin'

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

That's good to know! Did you have to use different springs, etc.? Seems like those would be a good fit. I need valve guides regardless of what I do, so that's no problem.

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If it was easy, everybody would be doing it.

I just had to get new keepers and retainers. I could probably have gotten by with my original retainers. I used the HP 340 valve springs.
-Matt

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

Thanks!