Wow. That stinks. All I see are ladders and the ocassional sofa on the freeway.

Mike

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1965 Valiant 200 /6 2dr Sedan.
1965 Valiant 200 V8 4dr Wagon
1965 Barracuda /6
1965 Valiant Convertible V8

I vote for factory stock.

I am using '75 Dart 11" rotors with sliding calibers, '75 Dart factory 10x2.5" rear drums, an '80 Volare aluminum master cylinder and a '73 Dart prop. valve. With regular part store replacement pads and shoes. Very smooth, very even braking. For increased rear brake effectivness, use F-body station wagon drums. Those drums have fins for better cooling.

Disco edition?

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I've been calling it as i see it for my entire life and that's not about to change. Take it or leave it.

Hmmm, stock Mopar brakes aren't supposed to work that way. I have no trouble locking the brakes in my Dart one-footed with no power assist. Right now I haven't adjusted the proportioning valve and the rear is locking first - got to fix that, since the last time I tried to do a panic stop I very nearly did a tail-out slide worthy of "Initial D."
Well, one temporary solution is to remove some of your trim and paint the car with several mismatched shade of primer (or maybe something water-based that you can wash it off at any time). Back when my Dart looked that way, everyone gave it a very wide berth. The sight of a sixteen foot A-body with obvious collision damage and a "If you don't like the way I drive, stay off the sidewalk" sticker on the front bumper barreling down on people sure got results. Then I got it painted and removed that bumper sticker, and hadn't driven it for more than a few months before I literally get run off the road by somebody in a moving van. Sometimes I'm not sure if looking decent is worth losing the intimidation you get when your car looks like it has killed before and might do so again.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

Disco Edition = Seafoam Green with Paisly upholstery and vinyl roof, fake wire wheels , 4 door , slant 6 and every option except handling or performance or sound system or anything else you might actually use. Every single smog item ever invented dumping into a muffler that would quiet a race hemi. You get the picture.

Disco Edition = Donor car! Thank Gawd Chryco made them,,,,,who wants to cut a nice car?

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

Mike,

If you can't lock them up, I suggest getting a small-bore Chrysler aluminum MC (parts store, for '85 Diplomat 15/16" bore, or magnumhp.com). Adapter plate from ARengineering.com or magnumhp.com (same unit) is convenient and works well. Your MC may have too big of a bore to complement the piston area on your KH calipers, hence the hard pedal. My '68 Dart has somewhat of a hard pedal too, and I need to switch it over.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

What about the kit from Master Power Brakes. It costs less than the aftermarket competitors, includes new upper A-arms and spindles. If I don't convert from
73--76 disk brakes, this is the kit I will use. Has anyone else used this kit?



Joe

One other thought - what type of brake pads are you running? You may have something that just doesn't grab well.

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"Mad Scientist" Matt Cramer
'66 Dart - turbocharged 225
My blog - Mad Scientist Matt's Lair

For a daily driver I can't vote for anything on your list. The setup that Master Power makes is half way decent but it is still only a 11 inch rotor. For a daily driver I just can't see a better system available than the factory 11.75 rotors hung on late model A body knuckles. I'd make it a manual system and leave the drums in the rear. Not too sexy but it is rock solid and works great.

Now if you want to step up and run with the big boys give me a call and I'll sell you a Porsche twin turbo caliper and rotor setup that will bolt onto an A body. At 13x1.250 they'll get the job done and then some.

Mike - if you want rear discs for the wow factor...kewl. But the fact is that you don't need them with a good front disc setup, whether A body C body or whatever you decide to use.
Get a set of [rather spendy] Praise Dyno shoes and some new drums and you are set for considerably less than a disc conversion.
BTW I also live in LA and have the factory disc/drum setup which I refreshed and have no trouble outbraking all SUVs and can hold my own with other modern cars.

Here is the Porsche caliper setup hung on a Mopar A body knuckle using a custom hub and a giant 13.5 inch Baer rotor.

Hey, I have the same, can be quite a nuisance when driving in the rain ( won't be singing then,..)
Also have the Kelsey Hayes discbrakes, willwood adjust. prop. valve, some kind of mopar mastercylinder and rear drums. Could you let me know when you find out what solves this?
I know how it feels, I hit an Emu some years back, 100 km/hour, in Western Australia. Luckily i had a bullbar, but it still trashed my radiator. Got that fixed in the desert with some liquidsteel, some washers and a nut & bolt.
Not to mention the small wallaby in the Snowy mountains and the big kangaroo in Queensland
I love this stuff!
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Back to the subject: If I would do it again, I would get everything from one and the same donorcar! Bit hard over here though.

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1965 Barreiros Dodge Dart. 225 / 4 speed.