After a month of being 'too busy' I'm finally starting to assemble my 225. I'm using a rope seal so I thought I'd post a few photos. I bought a seal from Rock Auto for an early 60's 413...they don't list a rope seal for the 225, at least for a 1968.

I used a 2.812" dia piece of round aluminum to press and hold the seal in place in the seal cap. I used a Dake press for this but you could use a clamp. For the block, I used the same aluminum piece and a clamp to hold it in place. Then, I used a new, high quality (GEM stainless steel) single edged razor to cut the rope flush. The trick is not to 'saw' with the blade - that takes forever - but rather use it in a 'guillotine' manner to make one clean cut. On the seal cap, I used a hammer to tap it and in the block I used a screwdriver to force the blade into the rope. The end result is a very clean cut that won't leave any fibers to get squished between the cap and block.

Why isn't there a one-piece seal that would work as is?

Slip seal over crank, lower crank into case, bolt on seal retainer....


I don't see why that would work.....

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Because the flange of the crank has a larger (by a lot) OD than the seal journal.

Why didn't I notice that in DD's book...….. ?

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Not a fan of rope seals. I have never had an issue with the neoprene seals (on any engine).
Much simpler to install.
Jus sayin.

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

The old rope seals that where made with asbestos worked just fine. They were a pain to install, and did create more drag, but done correctly didn't leak. The newer type without asbestos don't seem to be as good. The replacement rubber seals have a tendency to seep, if the knurl on the crank is not smoothed down. I did read about a split one piece seal, somewhere, but have no experience with it. Pricey
http://www.fastfishautoparts.com/Perfor ... Seals.html

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I'm mostly using a rope seal for 'fun' and to be a little old school. But I also have plenty of experience with split rubber lip seals that leak, so they pose their own issues as well. The need to get both halves centered on the journal and closely aligned is very 'real' and can be a tough thing to achieve.

$79 for a rear main seal...? That's cheap, if it prevents a leak. I like older engines as much as anyone, but sealing was never their strong point to say the least.