What side are the outlets for your radiator?

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

Same as stock.

Top side on drivers.

Bottom outlet on passenger side.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Yes it is 1.75 on the radiator end. It is almost a perfect fit, molded hose, made for this swap. I think I cut 1 or 2" off the end that goes to the water pump. Other than that it is a bolt in.

Hose is for 1982-91 Camaro, 305 engine W/O AC

Pictures on page 44 of my Valiant build if you want to look at them. Also a Bronco upper hose that worked great too.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Cool. Next time I will keep that in mind.

I knew there were hoses that would probably work out there.. but i did want to spend the time to research and find them.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

5/17/19:

Got to stop at the garage today before dinner. Installed some new modern horns. The O.E. ones were filled with so much sand and dirt that they did not really honk anymore.
I love the sound of those original '64 horns but they didn't work and are over a pound per horn. So modern replacements were ordered and installed. Nice and light too.

I was able to install the grille as well.

Here is a shot of the recycled F body overflow can. It is tucked up under the RF fender. Helps to get some of the weight onto the right side.


Painted 63 grille installed in the 64.







Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

That's looking wicked. I love the look of road race cars.

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“Buy the ticket, take the ride.”
― Hunter S. Thompson

Sinister indeed. Can't wait to have 2 green 64 Darts with Slant 6s on a road course together.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Lou, just tell everyone that his used to be like yours until you blew a couple of his doors off

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O==\=/==O

"A mechanic is Somebody."
- Jim Preston

He he.. that would certinally happen!
Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I almost made a comment about Greg's not having the correct number of doors... I look forward to having a battle of the door blowing (FOUR DOORS VS. THE WORLD) on some kind of twisty course.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

7/6/19:

Today I began to work on installing the RMS Street Lynx Rear suspension.

I had to remove the the Old Stuff:






Before I dropped the leaf springs I wanted to check my positioning and welding of the perches and the tire clearance. This is a B body rear Going into the A Body Frame. so it should push the wheels and tires out quite nicely with no spacers needed.






Clearance was good on right, but was making contact on left, so I need to center the rear end better when I weld up the link attachments or do a bit of trimming, or both.

Right Has clearance..


Left not so much...


New Rear Stance..






More work on it today!

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

7/7/19:


I got the Top Bar for the street lynx welded in. It needed an 1/8" Plate on one side to close the gap between the rails.
Welding works better when there are not gaps between the pieces that you are burning in.

Hopefully tomorrow I can continue on with the mock up and begin to set up the links, center the axle in the car, locate the mounting tabs for the top links on the rear axle, and then finish weld and paint the housing.

Have to get the driveshaft shortened as well as setup the axles. - I am cleaning, painting and getting new bearings and inner / outer seals.


Pics:






Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Nice progress. I also needed 0.1" spacer plates on the 68 Dart.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Got all of the Links Installed last night.

Later today or tomorrow I will place the rear end in the car and connect everything up and then find where the upper link brackets fall on the housing. The old transmission that I got on craigslist is sure coming in handy now!


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

7/9/19:

Made some more progress yesterday..

- Got the housing situated and placed in car at 13 3/4" Shock Travel, 1° pinion angle up and centered in the frame rails. (as per RMS Instructions)
- Set the upper links on the housing, tacked in place.
- Got the spring perches and link attaching points fully welded to the housing.
- Polished the inner and outer axle seal surfaces on the lathe.
- Cleaned / prepped the axle flanges for paint.
- Pressed in 3" long wheel studs.
- Took the Driveshaft to be shortened 2.25" to use with the 8.75" Rear end, also Dropped off my 3.91 Chunk at the same shop to have the Gear setup in it.. I was having a heck of a time with those gears so I will pay the pros to get those set up, that chunk has ant eaton truetrac in it so it should be nice when it's installed with a real Engine and trans.

Pics of work:

Axle work:












Links Installed in car:






This trans jack sure comes in handy when doing this job...



Getting closer to Paint and Prep: - Its fully welded now.

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