I have to do a full flush of my block due to a ton of crud so I was thinking about getting a NOS water pump as I've heard the ones at rock auto are junk. What should I be expecting to pay for one? I guy I saw at Carlisle may have one for me. I also found this one here https://www.moparmall.com/2196035-21969 ... 09-057.htm

is that a decent replacement over the rock auto stuff?

Thanks!
Gene

Fixed your link, and title. $37 seems OK. Have you checked at your FAPS? Check, 'cause the shipping could negate buying it over the Internet, and you can't inspect it before it gets to you.

FAPS = Favorite Auto Parts Store...

CJ

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Part of Tyrde-Browne Racing

Yea Napa has arena for $20 and a new one for $36. Just not sure how good the quality is. I saw a past post from SSdan talking about Airtex and TRW being oem manufacturers and are the better ones or at least they were at one time. Someone has a NOS TRW aluminum pump for $60 plus shipping and I was reluctant since mine isn't leaking at the moment and seems to be pumping fine. Just don't want to get hosed on a part not knowing what they go for.

I have installed 3 new,not rebuilt water pumps from Advance auto other the last 2 years with not problems on any of them. I forget what brand!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Probably more than you want to spend, but available, and work well!
https://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/co ... water-pump.

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1964 Dart GT

Looks pretty nice. (Always intriguing to find something not made in China at the cheapest possible cost.)

I guess it must be their slogan, since it's in bold print: "From 0-3,300 RPM…Nothing Beats a FlowKooler!" Strange choice of words. No mention of what happens if you exceed that.

In the oil pump world, high volume is generally considered unnecessary (esp. for a street car), just adds extra load. Wonder if the same is true for water pumps.

- Erik

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Lots of early Valiants and Barracudas have crossed my path.
Also a handful of other toys for variety now and then.

There's a whole string on this board about impeller fins, count and type, to get efficient flow for slant six. I don't have it handy, but search and you should find it.

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

So how do you hook up the NOS to the water pump anyway?

Does the water pump then spin faster and cool the engine better?

How much of a HP shot do you think you need?

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

"The impeller color is due to Type II Class II military grade surface coating which protects against corrosive fluids."

By which they presumably mean anodizing? Because their fancy CNC impeller is aluminum?

With a partial backplate on the impeller and reduced clearances to the block, I'm sure that pump does provide more flow than a stock water pump (at least at the lower RPMs seen in a typical street engine). The question remains whether that's actually necessary, or worth $99 plus shipping.

You can get a new Gates water pump on RockAuto for $18.72 plus shipping. I don't know where they're made, but I've never had an issue with them.

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Somehow I ended up owning three 1964 slant six A-bodies. I race one of them.
Escape Velocity Racing

For sure, they're using meaningless terminology on the coating. But then Ford does it too with their 'military grade' aluminum bodies...and so does everyone else with their 'billet' aluminum this and that.

Anyway, they could be using a true coating like the Teflon and ceramic coatings used on pistons, etc. But since they're being sneaky, it's probably anodizing. As for how the pump performs under, say, 650RPM..I really don't care.

In my experience:

All 60's era engines have pretty primitive cooling systems and there's only so much you're gonna do with them

Water pump speed plays a far bigger role in cooling than vane shape, size, or number.