Nice!!

I think I need to sit back and wait for an equal-ish-intake-runner-length manifold to pop up at an unreasonably low price. I like the Offenhauser 5041, and the Aussiespeed stuff looks great, but the prices make me flinch a bit. (I'm not saying they're not worth the money; I'm saying I don't want to spend that much right now.)

Thank you. There's won't be a shrouding problem with the 0.060"+ overbore, but I might still ask the machinist to decrease the diameter of the 1.5" exhaust valves, if the extra 0.05" is counter-productive.

Many thanks to all who have provided input for this ongoing LG Stroker project! I'm back, with yet another engine recipe question. Here is the current plan. Still aiming for a displacement of 205-210ci and a CR of ~9.5.

LG block (overbored 0.060-0.80)
198ci crank
Offy 5041 dual-carb intake* w/Raso manifold heat system
matching Carter BBS carbs
oversized valves
head port/polish
upgraded valve springs (haven't selected these yet)
dual exhaust manifolds
custom windage tray

* I know this isn't the smart/practical way to go, but WOW is it cool-looking.

This motor will go into a lightweight custom roadster with a manual transmission. The car will be driven (enthusiastically, but safely) on the street.

QUESTION: I knew nothing about cams. I bought one book, I read it, and now I know *almost* nothing about cams. I'm considering this #2106 regrind (hat tip to SlantSixDan). Is this the way to go? (This is the Dutra RV10-RDP, right?)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CprcLK ... sp=sharing

With a manual trans, 9.5 CR and a light car, I would go a lil bigger on the cam.

_________________
“Buy the ticket, take the ride.”
― Hunter S. Thompson

On my 170, Hyper Pak intake and Hyper Pak exhaust manifolds, I had to clearance the rib on the back of the water pump. Also my mini starter, Dakota manual trans, can not be removed without taking the rear manifold loose. I think you will have more room with Dutra manifolds. Headers also will give you more starter room.

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Hyper_pak

I think I have that same starter (Remy 16054). I'm hoping "dual duals" will clear.

FYI. Since the 170 is a zero deck motor, and if your build is possibly going to be positive deck, you may have to assemble the block,
and test fit the head and check the valve clearances to the piston face to make sure that the larger cam's lift won't allow the valve
to conflict with the piston face...

Indeed! We're going to mock up the build and see where things sit. I'll definitely want pistons with a shorter-than-stock wrist-pin height.

Why?
OK, forgot about the 198 crank.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Here's the current plan. I've got everything except the retainers, the harmonic damper (I just ordered it), and the headers/exhaust, which will be mocked up and fabricated when we're further along.

I have learned a lot about scope creep.

Pair of Carter BBS 7044s
Offy 5041 dual-carb intake
Raso manifold heat system
GM HEI upgrade
Stock valve cover
Slant Daily Garage valve cover load spreader
1970 head, ported/polished
Oversized valves - 1.72" intake and 1.45" exhaust
COMP Cams 901-16 springs
Retainers: not sure yet
Cam: Pattern #346, with 110-degree LSA, from Oregon Cam Grinders
JP Performance JP5613 timing chain
1961 LG block (overbored 0.065)
198ci crank
Romac 0224SA damper (IF it fits, and BOY do I hope it does)
stock 170ci rods
Silv-O-Lite P/N 1287-5MM pistons
Custom headers/exhaust
"Group Buy" windage tray

Glad to see you are still plugging along!
Looking forward to hearing what it sounds like.

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Hyper_pak

Full speed ahead on this project!
Same!

I just unboxed the the Slant Daily Garage valve cover load spreader. It looks good:

Same!

Been there, done that.

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Hyper_pak

Huh! What a cool product. Wish that had been around in years past.
I calc this out as 206 cubic inches. Interesting.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

If my math is correct: and 170 theoretical deck clearance is .000
Your combination will have the piston .080 down in the hole. Most 170 engines have the stock piston about .010-.020 down in the hole, so add that to the .080. That means you will have to cut the deck .100 just to obtain the stock compression ratio (with a unmilled head). Now you need to cut valve reliefs if you are going to mill the head and install a bigger cam.
This just seems to be a lot of effort to get the same results from a LG engine, as you can by using a 198 RG engine
PS: I have an LG engine in my shop that someone else wound up cutting the deck about .170 to use some oddball combination of parts.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225