Howdy all. I'm looking to make my leaning tower of power the meanest sounding on the street. I'm willing to buy lifters, pushrods and rocker shaft/arms too. I just want this thing to sound intimidating! Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

What axle ratio do you have? Is your car a manual or automatic transmission? If auto what stall speed converter? How much compression do you have?
I traded for a '71 Valiant once upon a time. It had an Offy intake, Edelbrock 600 4 barrel, 6-1 headers, Flowmaster muffler and a Clifford 276 cam.
It was a dog. It had near stock compression, a 3.21 axle ratio and a stock converter. It had a mean idle though.

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That's funny. In 1994 had a Mopar Performance 276 cam, with stock compression and it too was a complete dog. Real rumpity-rump idle though. The engine had a 390 CFM Holley on a Clifford intake and short Clifford headers. My '67 Valiant with a stock cam, but better compression (true 8.5:1), big valve head, 390 Holley on an Offy intake and a stock-replacement exhaust manifold with 2 1/4" exhaust was just as fast and much nicer to drive.

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Joshua

Let's be grownups, eh? Most of us get over wanting to deliberately make more noise than anybody else sometime during our gradeschool years, when it occurs to us others live in the world, too. Maybe do some work on why you feel this need to be the loudest kid. Even if you're unable or unwilling to figure out that aspect of arrested development, there are much easier, less costly ways to needlessly make antisocial amounts of pointless noise than picking a camshaft based on how loud you think it will make your engine. Because as others have already pointed out, a camshaft that makes as much noise as you think you want is going to also make the car run poorly and be a joyless dog to try to drive.

And after all that, you really don't need to swap the camshaft. Just take a Sawzall to the exhaust pipe ahead of the muffler and then everybody will pay attention to you, which is what it sounds like you crave. Not a single one of them will be thinking charitably of you, but it doesn't sound like you care.

Honestly, I couldn't imagine why you would feel the need to spout pointless negativity like this, but OK buddy.
Here's an idea, as long as we're talking about being "grown-ups", instead of injecting your opinion when you see something you don't like online, just ignore it. I asked for advice, not condescending nonsense.

Happy Friday and have a good weekend!

Maybe try harder. Sometimes the answer you need isn't the answer you think you want. That's life!
¯\_(ツ)_/¯

(Psst…here's another hint: the reason why you're getting the answers you're getting is because people who know more than you about this topic know that what you think you want to do is a lousy idea.)

As for attitude: post respectable stuff, get respected. Post childishly, get scorned. That's life, too! In most cases nobody's going to hold a gun on you and force you, but if you fear you might slip and accidentally read posts you don't like, you can make use of the board's handy Ignore feature, like this:

User "buzzin_225" is <IGNORED>

As previously mentioned, your going to want a bump in compression to put such a cam into effect. There are several ways to do that. At 10.6:1 I was able to run an OCG 34 cam through a Carter 500AFB. I was a bit short on stall at 2500, but if I'd dropped my 4.10 set in the back, instead of the 3.50 gears, it would have done fine. As it was, it dropped out of power for a couple hundred RPM on the 2-3 shift.
Instead of pursuing that cam further, as it was still pulling beyond my 5000 rpm self imposed redline, I went to an Erson 280, which didn't drop out of breath on the aforementioned shift point. It doesn't sound as nasty.
I gave my OCG 183 to Bobby, (THOR) but I don't know how that went. It was a pretty nasty cam. Last I heard, he had my old OCG 34 in his latest slant, and it had a nice rumble to it.
My best time with the OCG 34 was in the 14.6ish range. With the Erson 280, a best of 14.9x. The 34 pulled harder when it was turned on, but pulled RPM beyond where I was comfortable with the stroker build. With a stock stroke, it could have been a hoot, where the piston acceleration at the top could use it. A long rod stroked slant didn't like it much.

There are nastier cams out there, but I don't know how they would tune for a street mill. Short gears and a manual, you can do pretty much anything you want. To get quick, compression and gears are the ticket. Watch your bore alignment when you bring the lift up with a cut head or deck. The factory wasn't real good about getting the combustion chambers lined up with the bores. I had to clearance the deck to clear the rear three exhaust valves with my first rendition, an Erson RV15M RDP. With 0.125 off the deck, .040 off the head and an .045 overbore I smacked the Ex valves on the deck with 1.5 rockers. Anything over 0.060" overbore should clear, but as with any build, check. I had to increase the valve notch in my piston choice as well when I bumped up to the OCG cam.

Roller cams exist, but they are pretty rare. OCG commissioned some blanks, but they were out last I heard. I have one that tops out in the .560ish valve lift range, and 270 degree duration at 0.050" I think that was 312 degrees for the "Advertised lift" crowd. We had to ship it off to get it drilled for a cam spud after the fact. Easy enough to have done if you plan to run accessory drives off the front.
You could check to see if they got any blanks in. Unless they get some orders, they won't have any made. The market isn't very big, and at the engine speeds we use, the benefit doesn't offer much of an ROI over a flat tappet. The slant ports won't breath appreciably more with a lift over 0.550" Same with roller rockers. Pretty jewelry under a valve cover where you can't see it. That said, I have two sets in use, but don't recommend roller parts for a street car just due to the service aspect. My sets see zero street use.

CJ

PS: OCG is Oregon Cam Grinding
They are slant friendly

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Ya know, Dan, I can't help but wonder if you realized just how hilarious you were with just this opening sentence.
Seriously, we build an off-plumb, inline six cylinder, internal combustion engine, to improve upon, and make more power from it. Even knowing in advance that it's going to be an uphill battle, we still do it, and you suggest that we "be grown-ups". You're a funny guy, and I suspect you didn't even realize it. We're still kids at heart, even if we are chronologically past our "half-life", so to speak, but you keep it up.....I can always use a good chuckle.
(BTW, I'm not trying to be condescending, I really do find ironic humor in your response.)

Roger

Hey, Buzzin! Let's toss out Dan's response simply because you don't like his manner of response. (For the record, he was correct.)
Take a look at Ceej's, Joshie's, and DrGonzo's response, and notice that the common link is compression. Our chosen powerplant is a bit lacking in that area, and if it's purely noise and lopey cam sounds that you want, you will be disappointed if you try it without building more compression into your engine. Sure, you could swap in a relatively radical cam, and even drop some 1.6 rockers in the head, and get that slow rump-rump sound, even though it has to idle at 1400 rpm just to stay running, but drive-ability will be unsatisfying, and the car might be rather temperamental. Without some compression, it will still be quiet, compared to one with higher static compression.
Sorry to disappoint you, but it's the nature of the beast. None of us can alter the facts, and having internal components that work together, as a balanced package, are the facts.

Just a bit of food for thought.

Roger

I used the Erson 270* cam in my engine with 8.75 compression. It has a nice idle at 900 rpm with a noticeable lope. I ran low 17's in the quarter, with a bad fuel system and a slipping clutch.

To get your leaning tower to have the meanest sound on the street, you don’t need to change out cams.
What I recommend for you is to take off the #1 spark plug wire from the distributor cap and then join the #1 spark wire with the #5 spark plug wire. Your goal is to make #1 cylinder to fire late when the exhaust valve is open. At best you will get a regular backfire out the exhaust. You may need to play with the overall engine timing to get the best effect. And an extended tip sparkplug with the gap somewhat closed up in #1 cylinder may be beneficial. If you are really lucky you may get flames out the tail pipe.
At worst with one dead cylinder you will have the rough running engine that you desire.

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In the mid nineties I had a gutted Duster that I put a super six and a cherry bomb on. The junkyards were full of 2bbl manifolds but out of carbs so I put a 318 2bbl on it. That thing never ran great at idle but sure did sound mean. Was slower than a diesel truck (that was back when they were SLOW) but didn't matter because the chebbie guys and mustwangs were terrified of it and stayed a few car lengths back at red lights.

The original poster should just wait a bit. I think Hughes Engines will be releasing new cams sometime soon for slants and I would think it would include a "whiplash" grind. Whiplash cams are made for stock compression ratios but have nasty sounding idle for those that actually what to do that sort of thing on purpose. Maybe give them a call and see if one is in the works?

Smart minds here will try to talk you out of what you want to do, and will mention things like oil pump gear failure and low end torque and such but in the end you are the one that will drive the car.

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https://www.flickr.com/photos/162600228@N03/

Do this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3wjb3F3m70

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Irony...

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Honestly there are lots of cams out there that will do what the original poster asks for..

Check the articles on the subject here..
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... 19&t=38446

Also when you put one of these cams in the driveability can be questionable.
The head ports compression ratio ignition timing and valve sizes also need to be considered.

Here is a video of my dart with the direct connection purple shaft 0.528" lift with a duration i forget now.
Video has open cutouts.

https://youtu.be/hGxNHJqX4ls


Greg

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