Hi guys,

just pulled our old slant apart today - it's an Aussie 62 Valiant.....1961 V200 over there.

Just out of curiosity I was looking to see what the part number of the pistons were....there's 2 numbers. 1947348, and 2264075. When I do any kind of search on these 2 numbers, nothing comes up.

What's the go ??
Also, getting them out was a nightmare - had to literally belt them out hard, because they simply would not go past a decent lip which had developed at the top of the cylinder walls - all of them.
Is that normal ??

Peter

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1962 Chrysler Valiant "R" Series (Australian) - 61 V200 in U.S
Life Member - R&S Series Valiant car Club N.S.W
http://www.1962valiantclub.com

You will not be able to find original pistons with those part numbers. There are many aftermarket manufacturers, and old stock rebuild pistons on Ebay. I like Silvolite pistons myself. Up to 0.060" overbore will not tax a Slant 6.

In order to the get the rings past the ridge from wear, you can use a tool called a "ridge reamer" to cut the ridge before you push the pistons out. If you use a ridge reamer, you can grind too far, causing the engine to need more overbore. It sounds like you have them out already, though...

All the best,
Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

That lip at the top of the cylinder is the original bore size. The lip is caused by the rest of the cylinder wearing up to the highest point that the rings reach. So yeah, it's normal - for a worn out engine. Also, carbon can build up in the same place. The carbon can usually be scrapped off with a knife blade.

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Yeah Lou.....nothing a lump hammer and a piece of timber couldn't fix.

So, 60 isn't over the top ??

And Procycle....thanks. Glad it's normal, but very worn.

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1962 Chrysler Valiant "R" Series (Australian) - 61 V200 in U.S
Life Member - R&S Series Valiant car Club N.S.W
http://www.1962valiantclub.com

Casting numbers are not part numbers. They usually differ by a few numbers. So you can't do a search on the casting numbers. Ditto on the ridge reamer, it makes it a lot easier to get them out without cranking ring lands.

Largest overbore I have ever heard about was a .140 but that was years ago. .060 is common.

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Hyper_pak

0.060" is a cake walk for these blocks. Easy to get pistons and rings too.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Is there any benefit in going that size ? As opposed to simply freshening up the walls ?

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1962 Chrysler Valiant "R" Series (Australian) - 61 V200 in U.S
Life Member - R&S Series Valiant car Club N.S.W
http://www.1962valiantclub.com

If you had to "beat" the pistons out, past the ridge, it is probably too much. The cylinders most likely are excessively worn, and out of round, and have taper. Have the bores measures to be sure, then go for the over bore if necessary.
Also there is a good chance, by beating the pistons past he ridge, you have damaged the ring lands, and that would require new pistons.

FYI: The ridge should always be cut with a ridge reamer, prior to removeing the pistons, so the ring lands are not damaged.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

Something like this will work:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-36500-Ridg ... B000P0ZK1O

I bought a vintage one off Ebay last year to take some core blocks apart.


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I like this one better. Been using one for many years.
https://www.amazon.com/H-D-Cylinder-Rid ... FXCK3WQG5X

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

if you are doing a performance slant increasing to larger over bore like a +.060 moves the cylinder bore out enough to minimize valve shrouding and will help the engine breath.
With so much of the slants displacement in the stroke, there is minimal gain concerning cubic inches.
For a normal slant re build, doing enough of an over bore to get the cylinders back in specification for size and geometry is fine.
I used Silvolite .030 over sized pistons on the re build on the 83 D150.

A competent machine shop can check the block and tell you how much of an over bore is needed to get the cylinders right.
Always have the pistons and rings in hand and available to the machine shop prior to starting the cylinder bore work.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

To everyone....thanks heaps for the info. It's really appreciated.

I half expect I'll be getting new pistons, but I'm not into making a Hi-Po slant.....just want to rebuild it and have a nice running motor. I'm not in any rush either.....you should see the car.

I'm giving it a little bit of a clean and then going to a machine shop to let them have a look at the cylinders etc. I've done rings and bearings in a 383 once, but haven't gone to this extent before, and I'm hoping to keep the original date correct block for my car.

Many thanks again guys for taking the time to comment.

Peter

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1962 Chrysler Valiant "R" Series (Australian) - 61 V200 in U.S
Life Member - R&S Series Valiant car Club N.S.W
http://www.1962valiantclub.com