I have a block that I want to use in another build. The numbers on the side of the 225 are as follows. 2806830-3. Is this a 68 block? If not can you tell by these numbers what year it is.

There’s a real helpful table over on the Articles page. It lists head, crank & block variations.
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/parts-matrix/jpg.htm
According to this, blocks with that casting number were from 1968 through 1975.
Then there’s the article on blocks by Doc. Lots of good stuff there as well.
http://www.slantsix.org/articles/dutra- ... blocks.htm

Is there a number stamped on the deck surface near the #1cylinder? This usually provides more specific info regarding assembly date.

_________________
1975 Dodge D100 225 c.i., HEI, Parallel Offenhauser, Motorcraft 2150, 904 auto, 9.25" 3.55:1

Ok I have a forged block with 5 freeze plugs with numbers like this. 2B112184. And H225R. 7 22. Also has the number 1931 on side of block the long number on side of block is 2806830 3. With this info can you tell me what year block this is and would it be desirable fo a new race build? Thanks for any help Norm

Norm, when it comes to blocks it really doesn't matter, they are all pretty tough. The important things are having the crank that matches the block type, (cast or forged) and the crank that matches your flywheel/converter. (Large or small register) Unless you're going to run a whole lot of boost you will very rarely hurt a block.

_________________
Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

Thanks I do have the forged crank. I want to build a turbo engine or supercharged. I have 40 over pistons and 198 rods to go in it. This block is still standard bore. I was just curious on year model.

The engine's ID stamping is on the top of the block, behind the alternator mount location.
With those numbers we can figure-out the year the engine was assembled.
DD

One other "tip"...
It would be best to use the standard 225 length rods with your ".040" pistons (6.7 long rods)
This will keep the compression lower, for use with a turbo or supercharger.

The 7 inch "long rod" 198 connecting rod must be used with shorter 2.2 type pistons (starting at 3.445 bore or .045 o/s)
That combo get you much higher compression numbers that will not work well with forced induction.
DD

If this is stamped at the top of the block near the right front corner, as described by Doctor Dodge, it means this is a 225 engine originally assembled on 22 July 1972 for installation into a 1972-model vehicle.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Sorry to hijack but I couldn't find the post that helps decipher the stamped in numbers on the top of the block by the alt. I came up with an irrigation engine set up (from radiator cover to output shaft including the frame it attaches to) but I don't know the year on the engine. 5 core block stamped as follows 5 225 t 6 13.
I know Dan can help, I was hoping I could find the article that breaks this number down so I don't need to pester him every time. P,S. I did try search, must not have called the stamped code the right thing.


Thanks Dan, in advance, and anyone else who chimes in.

_________________
Dave

1977 d-200 crew cab ex-army pickup wants it's /6 back
1962 Valiant 2 door, 170, three on the tree
1972 d-100 parts truck
80 volare wagon now a parts car

That first "5" should be a letter -- take another look at it.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Y'know.....I tried "decoding" numbers on my motor, and actually found it a difficult task.
You'd think there'd be a site that has all the meanings of all the numbers - but there isn't. Not that I could find anyways.

Sure.....they'll have that a particular block is a 225......but what year, if stamped numbers aren't visible and you're going by castings ?
And for beginners, the day/night symbols and God knows whatever other digits there are.

Anyway, that's my spit. Thanks.

_________________
1962 Chrysler Valiant "R" Series (Australian) - 61 V200 in U.S
Life Member - R&S Series Valiant car Club N.S.W
http://www.1962valiantclub.com

I'm not much on decoding blocks but shouldn't that one say BAMBOOZLER on it somewhere? IDK, i just know what I read here.

_________________
“Buy the ticket, take the ride.”
― Hunter S. Thompson

After thorough scraping scratching and rubbing the markings are 5 225 t 6 13. It must have been mis-stamped at the factory Dan. I don't know what else to say. Nothing before or after the code I gave. Thanks again Dan.

This engine is in a Chrysler irrigation engine setup if that makes a difference, don't know if it is original.

_________________
Dave

1977 d-200 crew cab ex-army pickup wants it's /6 back
1962 Valiant 2 door, 170, three on the tree
1972 d-100 parts truck
80 volare wagon now a parts car

I'm tipping the 5 is meant to be an S.

_________________
1962 Chrysler Valiant "R" Series (Australian) - 61 V200 in U.S
Life Member - R&S Series Valiant car Club N.S.W
http://www.1962valiantclub.com

The upper left corner of the character is square, I do not see how it could be supposed to be an "s"

_________________
Dave

1977 d-200 crew cab ex-army pickup wants it's /6 back
1962 Valiant 2 door, 170, three on the tree
1972 d-100 parts truck
80 volare wagon now a parts car