I have a 1980 Plymouth Volare with a stock 225 automatic trans model. I am beginning to have some driveability issues with the carb and although I know I could rebuild the emission carb I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for a replacement carb that would bolt up to the current setup. My goal is just to improve the driveability as with a 4 door sedan that I want to keep stock in appearance i don't want to go with a big two barrel or 4 barrel. Just a single throat that will run better. Mileage is low(30,000 miles) and the rest of the engine is in very good shape. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks

Your Holley 1945 is a fine carb. I recommend just keeping the original and sorting out the problem.

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Casually looking for a Clifford hyperpak intake for cheap.

I had a 1980 aspen that had a similar problem...
It was an all stock 1 bbl motor and I replaced the carb with an nos version of the same carb from a swap meet for $50.


I was lucky to find it.. and I wasn't looking for it at the time.. it was cheap enough to try and it smoothed out the idle and driveability.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

I wonder if Old Car Parts Northwest would have a good old-stock rebuild kit for it? It is not that hard to rebuild a carb.

Can you tell us more about why it is not running right? I wonder if you may have another problem. Maybe the ignition timing needs adjustment, or cap/rotor/wires need replacing, or valve lash needs adjustment. The last one (valves) is a biggie, and is often overlooked and can cause drastic driveability issues. Your car is a 1980, so I believe that is the last year for adjustable valves. Or, maybe I am a year off and it is 1980 where hydraulic lifters started production?

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

With only 30k miles I would rebuild that one with a new float too. That one wasn't too bad as "emissions" carbs went. When I had my same year volare running, I went thru it's carb and discovered a sloppy throttle shaft, at the time I had a buddy who worked maintenance at American Lock, (since bought out by Master Lock, nother story) but back then he had run of the maintenance shop which had a full machine shop, and he took my throttle body into work and rebushed it as a "government job" one day, I put it back together and that made a world of difference. But my car had way more miles on it than yours does, even then.
Being 40 years old with less than 30k original miles, I'd guess it's just varnished up inside.
Those had the plastic floats on them, that eventually would absorb gas and sink. This is why I say to be sure that you include a new float in your rebuild. It will be a separate, additional part besides the carb kit.
If you have never done one, another tip is that they often have multiples of what may look like the same gasket for different sections of the carb. They're not. Be sure to match up which ever one you use from the kit to what is in your carb now. Some could have extra holes or a hole blanked off compared to what you have, or a slot instead of just a hole. This is a major area that Will Make or break a carb job, besides making sure that all linkage adjustments are done exactly. Most carb kits come with an instruction sheet that tells you how they need to be done. Make sure all check balls are put back where they came from, make sure all passages are absolutely clean, reassemble and GO!

Car runs great when hot. Issue is only really runs well on a really warm day consistent with a lean condition. Choke works correctly as far as I can tell, removed hot wire for fast warm up and now only use manifold heat to activate it. Valves adjusted about 8,000 miles ago, tune up 1500 miles ago or so witn new air filter, all usual parts, and fuel filter. Ballast resistor and electric control module also replaced. Car has run like an 80's Mopar ever since I got it 13 years ago with 8400 miles. Carb acts like a jet issue maybe. Vacuum is good, compression as well. I can rebuild the carb I am sure (have done several in the past including Quadrajets) but though since emissions are not a problem here I was considering maybe an older carb for an older Slant six with larger jetting and maybe less lean issues . I also have a 52 Plymouth with the same problems( and a carb that has been rebuilt at least twice since I got the car 20 years ago). There are a couple of places that manufacture kits for the flatheads and the other option I am considering is a Carter model YF. So I though perhaps that one of you had found a similar type of arrangement that I could consider. I need to talk to the Carburetor Shop this week and they also might have an idea. Any ideas appreciated.

You could try going up two jet sizes (numbers) and see how it runs? Holley 1920 carb from about 1968 could work well. The best setup, IMHO, would be a Carter BBD 2bbl on a factory 2 bbl intake, with all the trimmings. Finding a good one can be tough...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

The "jet issues" may just be partial clogging, also did you check things like mechanical and centrifugal advance to see that they are working as they should? After 40 years the vac advance diaphragm would be suspect
If it "only runs good on a warm day" I'd be looking at maybe a sticky thermostat, (stuck partly open)
You did cap n rotor? How long ago (time, don't care about mileage on new parts) and what kind (brand) as issues there have been talked about here. Alot of times age is a bigger issue than miles. Especially if parts were on the car exposed to the changing weather, moisture,etc. Less of a concern for ignition parts that sat in a garage on a shelf.

Might be original carb, there was a bulletin about this. 4179021 chrysler no, R 8831 holley number orignal application early 1980 till feb 1, 1980 after that date running production change to 4179075 and R 9338 . This carb was for slant six federal and iternational emissions ,non ac and automatic tranny. There was a technical service bulletin about this.The part that changed was the choke vacuum diaphragm [ the pull off]. Driveability kit came with diaphragm chrsler no 4240064. and metal tag with new part number.If your carb does not have a tag . It was not updated?? There were no other changes to carb. The problem with early carbs was the choke was pulled open too far too early. Napa has the cups for accelrator pump with out buying the whole kit. buy at least two. This was copy from old post.

Some lnfo in this post https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopi ... &hilit=110

There is a gasket between throttle body and bowl that tends to leak because screws are loose. Pull carb off, then gently snug up. The one with arrow tends to strip out if over tightened.

Also tighten screws on top off bowl. A small air leak from from gasket top or bottom can lean out idle circuit. A leak at top gasket can lean out main circuit.

If you go with a Holley 1920 you will need a 1973 only choke pull off, Dan's electric choke kit, or a manual choke cable, as the 1945 pulloff doesn't work with
the 1920. FYI.

Custom adjustment for pull off. Done by adjusting that u bend.

That black arrow points to idle down channel.