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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2020 1:47 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Don't say it. I know I should use true MIG welding on body panels. But I don't have a MIG setup, just a wire feed welder.

What would be the "best" flux core wire to weld autobody sheet metal with? My Ramcharger needs some patching done in front of the rear wheels.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2020 6:32 pm 
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Not to be a Debbie Downer, but whatever wire you choose, it's going to be rough welding panels. The cleaner you can get them the better off you'll be.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 13, 2020 9:33 pm 
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Understood. I will get them shiny and clean before welding. I know I will have to spend time grinding welds down.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2020 10:39 am 
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I would not flux core thin sheet.


I guess I could be wrong, but i think the charts advise against that too.
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2020 11:16 am 
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Location: Fircrest, WA
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I understand. However, MIG is not an option. I can stick weld or I can flux core wire weld. There is no shielding gas option. Wire feed is better than stick welding sheet metal.

Maybe I will just look into body panel adhesive.

What did body repair shops do before there was MIG? Braze? Lead?


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2020 11:32 am 
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
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Brazing and lead. Now you know why most old time body guys were "odd". :mrgreen:

You sure yours has no gas option? Mine just has a 3/16" nylon line from a regulator you plug in. If you don't know where it is you'd never see it. There are no settings for gas. :?

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2020 1:00 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
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Brazing and lead. Now you know why most old time body guys were "odd". :mrgreen:

You sure yours has no gas option? Mine just has a 3/16" nylon line from a regulator you plug in. If you don't know where it is you'd never see it. There are no settings for gas. :?
I have an old Hobart Handler 150. It is MIG capable and MIG retrofit kits were available once upon a time, but are not available any longer. Someday i will eith get a MIG machine or find a kit to run MIG on mine, but right now I have no MIG capability.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2020 1:48 pm 
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My body guys swear by the adhesive, and it does not put heat into the metal (no rust). Very strong if you get the real stuff from a body supply place.

Lou

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2020 1:59 pm 
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My body guys swear by the adhesive, and it does not put heat into the metal (no rust). Very strong if you get the real stuff from a body supply place.

Lou
Just make sure your panel is where you want it before the glue sets. :oops:

:mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2020 2:17 pm 
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
I have been checking out the prices on panel adhesive from Eastwood. Seems pretty steep. Does Eastwood qualify as "real stuff" or should I go for 3M or some similar company?


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2020 2:22 pm 
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Location: kankakee IL
Car Model: 80 volare, 78 fury 2 dr, 85 D150
I know a guy who used that panel bond on a 64 Galaxie quarters, and he is having issues now with it. IDK exactly what the issues are, I don't remember, haven't seen him in a while.....
my son has a 99 Dodge 2500 that came with tons of reciepts from a past owner for paint, patch panels and such, seems there is lots of panel bond in that truck. It looks horrible, he has only had the truck about 4-5 months, looked nice when he got it, lotsa rust around edges you can tell exactly where the seams are.... this is a club cab with the suicide opening back doors, those should have been replaced as bad a job as was done.

You SURE there is no kit available for that welder? I'd be surprised if that were true. Hobart and Miller are essentially the same company, if NA from one there should be something from the other for it.

I have a Millermatic 185 MIG,about 20 years old now, that I bought new. It came "capable" of running a spoolgun accessory, something I never have had, but a few years later they had a promotion where their machines suddenly came with one for free with purchase.. I want one for occasional messing with aluminum as I don't have any access to TIG (and that's the one welding process I have never really had the chance to try) but even now, the price of a compatible spoolgun has so far been prohibitive for as much as I think I'd actually use it.

Check out the aftermarket welding cable makers, like Tweco or Bernard (who themselves is another division of the same company that Miller and Hobart are a part of) they probably offer something in a retrofit kit..... I've seen MIG bottle kits at the likes of TSC and Rural King.....

my 1st MIG was one that could be bought in Popular Mechanics 35-40ish years ago, for like $129. and they had an optional bottle kit. I bought the overpriced MAC tools version of this same machine, as a repo.... even so paid way more, 25 years ago, tool truck guy made a huge deal about it coming with that gas kit.... I didnt realize til years later (after I burnt the transformer out of that thing and scrapped it) that it was actually the exact same "Astro" machine that was that one I mentioned, in PM magazine.
After burning out another 110V MIG (this one a "Century" brand, a cheaper line of Lincoln machines) I bought my current 220V one, and have only ever had 1 issue with it, and thatw as having to replace the gun's liner..... pretty cheap and easy. I am so glad I went with the 220 machine, although your machine and other 110V machines similar have come a long way since I had my 2, 110V machines. We have the Miller version of your Hobart at work, does great for what we do with it/ lots betetr than either 110V machine I ever had.....


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2020 3:20 pm 
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If the panel adhesive is no good, my new fiberglass hood will be going for a ride! :D :D

The truth is my body shop guy says it is great stuff. I would probably get the good stuff. The kit I bought was about $45 ( SEM I believe) Plus you need a special twin "grease gun" to apply it.

PS. I just patched my Tahoe's rear quarter, and I use a sheet of aluminum and pop rivets. Little skiff of Bondo and it looks fine for me! :D

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2020 4:22 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
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Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
Sorry- my machine is a Hobart Handler 125, not a 150.

Hobart used to sell a mog conversion kit, part number 195198 that has not been available for about ten years. The part number has been reassigned to a welder cover. I am doing more research and finding out that there a a period of Hobart welder manufacture for which no parts are available. I think my unit falls into this time span.

I might break down and get a different welder, but this one works great and has exceedingly low use. I would be surprised if I have used it for more than two hours the whole time I have had it. Anyway, I will go research panel adhesive and mig convrsion kits some more. Maybe scroll through Craigslist and try and find a deal on a MIG welder.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2020 5:25 pm 
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Since it's a floor pan go ahead and try it. What have you got to lose?

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2020 5:40 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
https://www.northerntool.com/images/dow ... /84999.pdf

page 16.

Looks like you connect gas on back.

If so, all you need is regulator and gas cylinder and tubing.

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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