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 Post subject: frustrated
PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2004 5:27 pm 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Thu Apr 17, 2003 10:12 am
Posts: 194
Location: Fountain valley
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In my '66 slant I installed all new shoes all the way around (i have drums all the way around as I have not yet converted to a 8 1/4 rear with wide bolts and 73-76 discs and CAs upfront). Well after bleeding the brakes I attempted to adjust the brakes and it seemed everything went well. but lately the pedal goes to the floor (not with ease, but it still does) and the car pulls HARD to the left when I hit the brakes. Originally when I bought the car, it pulled left, but would lock up if I hit the brakes TOO hard, at least I knew they were grabbing. Now they wont lock up at all, seems like I almost stop too slow, and it still pulls hard.

I am thinking some brakes may still need to be adjusted tighter, and the front left might be a tad too tight since the car constantly pulls to that side while braking. what else could lead to what I am discribing?

Caesar


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2004 6:10 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9714
Location: Salem, OR
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If your mopar sits or you pump the pedal, then check the back of your wheels under the car, any of them have a wet spot? Have you replaced the brake hoses? (I had a small nick in one, a long time back and it seemed fine when in the driveway, but when a buddy turned the wheel to the left and tromped the brake after jacking the car up I found a leak REAL quick....)


-D.Idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2004 12:39 am 
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Joined: Sat Feb 08, 2003 2:37 pm
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Location: CA
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Make sure you have a primary and secondary shoe on each wheel, not two primaries on one and two secondaries on the other. I am not positive but I believe the primary, slightly longer lining, face towards the front of the car.

Check your hardlines for any kinks, and make sure none of your wheel cylinders are seeping any fluid.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2004 9:37 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 1:49 pm
Posts: 2445
Location: Lubbock, TX
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The longer shoe goes toward the rear.


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 Post subject: Careful!
PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2004 12:28 pm 
Sounds like a combination of things working together. On a car of that age, i would suspect everything is 'iffy'.

I've even heard of rebuilt master cyclinders that were bad out of the box.

Start like others have said, look for leaks as black wetness. Pull the drums again if you need. If the internals don't look dry as a bone, the wheel cycliner usually needs replaced. If you're not leaking, and have pressure problems, a new master is in order.

I once found a wheel cyclinder that was completely frozen with rust and did not move even when properly blead. Car had always pulled hard to one side. To check for this oddball, Have someone genlty push the pedal with each drum off, but not enough to pop the wheel cyclinders open. While your friend gives a little pedal pressure, use big screwdrives to push the pads back and forth to make sure both pistons in each wheel cyclinder move freely.

Check the adjusters again, but they should not cause a great deal of problems unless they are very off.

Good Luck, Be careful.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2004 3:00 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 1:57 pm
Posts: 2216
Location: Everett, WA
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Since you have a car that pulls to the left and a brake pedal that slowly goes to the floor. I would suspect that the left front wheel cylinder leaks.


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 Post subject: what Pierre said, but
PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2004 5:06 pm 
also check for a bad hose (blocked) or a frozen wheel cylinder on the Right ... sounds like the left side is doing all the stopping on the front, and the right isnt doing its share. On my dads old '86 Dodge van (yes I know it had discs up front) he called me to come rescue him as he was in a parking lot with no pedal.... all of a sudden! He told me that it was leaking out that corner. I went by the parts house on the way to where he was stranded, thinking I'd be ready and could fix it right there and he could be on his way. Found out the steel line had blown, just behind the fitting. I hammered it shut to get him home and be able to hold its fluid (line was toast anyway) and talk about a pull.... Following him home, and seeing that big box dive left every time he had to stop, I was just waiting for him to put it in the ditch!
The right side definitely wasnt working, just like I suspect on your car. Also measure the drums to see if one side is much larger diameter than the other,,,, this could affect how much bite that wheel has. If I remember, the limit was like both sides equal within like 0.010".


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 19, 2004 2:26 pm 
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1 BBL (New)
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Joined: Fri Jun 18, 2004 4:50 pm
Posts: 7
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cracked shoes


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 19, 2004 9:11 pm 
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Guru
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Joined: Sat Oct 12, 2002 11:22 am
Posts: 3740
Location: Sonoma, Calif.
Car Model: Many Darts and a Dacuda
The "star wheel" adjusters are right and left hand so make sure they did get swapped / replaced on the wrong side of the car.

Also inspect the strut rod bushings, a bad strut rod bushing will cause a pull to that side of the car under braking.
DD


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