5/8/20:

I was able to get the 2 Torque Boxes Welded in the Right side of the car.
Hope to get the Left Side Over the weekend.







On some parts the welds ran really nicely.









Right Rear Box:






Helper kept taking the welding helmet.


I will keep on keepin' on!


Greg

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Nice work. Can't wait to have two green Slanted 64 Darts on a road course together...

When does Ava get to try zapping metal??

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

When she's aware that its hot and to not touch everything. Maybe 2 more years.

Greg

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5/10/20:

I got All the Underfloor Welding Done! YAY.
4 Torque Boxes are in, and the Connectors are all done too.

Just need to reattach the brake line and fuel line to frame and connect the E brake together, Then Paint, But I hope to do that after I begin to fit the T5 to the trans tunnel.. err the trans tunnel to the T5.


Pics:
Boxes in 4 corners.






Greg

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Looks great. That's going to be a very firm ride. Question, do you think you will need to drill a couple of small drain holes in the two front torque boxes? It looks like they could hold a little water in there.
-MattMan

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

Possibly. Drilling some holes would be easy. I always do it when I install exhaust as the parts usually never have drain holes like the factory Mufflers and bends did.

Greg

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Great stuff, Greg. I can now declare my 62 Valiant officially ready for your Countryside Tour, and/or a road course day/weekend. Let's hope things open up sometime this summer.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Yep sounds Good! Looking forward to it!

Greg

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5/11/20:

I got some small things done Sunday and today.

I pulled some Aluminum and Stainless off and decided to Buff ( I have been randomly doing this since I got the car.) This trim level of early 60's car has alot Of britework, some of which I have kept, some of which I got rid of.

I decided to Buff up the R. Rear Stone Chip guard, and both of the rocker spears.
AL / Stainless before:








Chip Guard done, Spear to be polished.


Spear before..


Spear During Polishing..



Chip Guard After:







Polished Parts Back on car:






THe Bottom of the RF Fender has had previous patch work, there is some filler and fairly well shaped piece of metal there, It had become un-attached from the bottom of the fender, so I decided place some small welds to help hold things together:






I also decided to put an original pentastar back on the RH lower Fender, It was a quirky thing that lots of MoPars had from the factory in the Mid 60's to Mid 70's.
The Original Holes for the emblem were there, just covered with body filler, so I drilled out the filler and added the new emblem on.



Also Got the Brake line, Fuel Line re installed, and the the E Brake Cable Routed.
Windows that I cut for the Ebrake cable and tension adjustment fit into the newly installed frame connector.






Cable Routes to Left Rear through a break out window that the manufacturer includes.


Fuel line fits nicely inside the Frame Connector.






This steel clip was attached to the floor and kept the fuel line from vibrating and oscillating around, I was able to reuse it, just welded it to the frame connector.



@Matman / Badvert... Here is that drain Hole... It's the middle small hole in this picture. It sits at the lowest point when that box in installed.. so no drilling for drains needed



I hope to begin pulling out the 3 speed in a day or 2!

Greg

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Tried the doors yet with the weight of the car on the tires?
I've had problems frame welding cars on a lift like that. Everything from dimpled quarter panels to doors becoming mis-aligned. I only do chassis welding with the weight of the car on the tires at a minimum these days; preferred is on a chassis table.

When I welded it was on stands.

Yeah if i did the welding on the lift I would have some serious problems unless I had a four post.

Greg

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5/19/20:

Preparing for the T5 Swap...

I have not yet gotten to cutting any floors or raising any crossmembers yet, Will be getting to that soon.

I got the 3 speed out and was eyeing up the viability of the parts needed to do the swap. I have 2 t5's and 2 conversion bell housings to choose from; One was From the Slant 6 Bellhousing Group Buy back in ~2005 which I was not a part of, but I acquired one from someone that abandoned their Transmission swap project.

I had a nice flywheel made about 10 years ago at Wilcap - this is the time to use it.. It was made for the '68 Up Slant 6 Crank Hub Register which is ~2.165"Ø and the engine / Crank currently in the car is a Small Hub Crank ...Production years 1960-67 which has a Hub of ~1.870"Ø.

If it were just some sort of stockish build I would get the correct flywheel and be done.. but that's not the case so I designed up some Adapter Rings and am getting those made now.

Picture of the progress:
Bye Bye old Sandy, Greasy Non Synchro 1st Gear 3 Speed!



Who Knows maybe this car was in a flood? there is tons of sand on top of the trans and stuck to all the greasy Stuff under here!









Lots of sand, Grease and undercoating to scrape off in the tunnel before cutting / grinding / welding.



Scrapin, we be Scrapin, Mon!



Get It light by taking all the sand out!



Time for class... er world class t5 that is.. I was taking notes.



I was able to purchase a complete T5 with most of the necessary parts from another die hard slant 6 fellow. Since he did alot of the work and engineering this does make things easier for me... He also had Desirable parts in the swap that are just bespoke or no longer made.. such as the Mcloeod 9" Pressure plate. Back in 2000-2004 it was easier to get parts like this from McLeod.
Here is the Pressure Plate when I got it.. Good parts, but it needed refreshed.








It also Had a Nice 9" Dual Friction Disc with the t5 Splines in the Center Hub. Kevlar Pucks on one side and Organic Facing on the other.
I sent Both the Disc and Pressure Plate to Falcon Clutch https://www.falconauto.com/ in Deer Park NY.
I talked to them on the phone and Told them I wanted the Pressure Ring Blanchard Ground and Rebuilt with the same exact spring pressures as it had When I sent it to them.. I also had them Reface the 9" clutch disc the same way that it was made from McLeod.. One side with pucks and the other side full organic..
Here's how it came back: (New Parts on Right Side !)





Here's the Flywheel.. Sort of a Fidazna'ish Slant 6 Flywheel.


I got a 28 Spline Yoke, And once the T5 is in the Car I can measure for a driveshaft too.


Again, I was able to buy some parts from a successful t5 slant 6 swap that was removed from a car??!? So I dont have to make a trans crossmember, but this one is thin.. so I think I will weld up some metal to beef it up.. Its made of light gauge metal for some reason.



Lastly, I have some measuring and futzing Around with the Input Bearing and associated adapters.
Parts on order to make this all work.. Also might have to fire up the lathe!.



Cheers! Greg

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Very cool. I regret not jumping on the swap bellhousings when they were available.

Looks like a great start, Greg. I guess you have a non-5.0L T5 because the input is longer. That means you will have better spline engagement on the disc and need a shorter adapter piece for the pilot bearing (than the one I had made). Wow, amazing that group buy was 2004-2005 - 15+ years ago. That was A LOT of work, and I had someone else do the machining...

Nice to know that Falcon will rebuild those McLeod PPs and discs. Those things are pretty bulletproof.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Yes both t5's that I have are not the 5.0 Flavor... v-6 ford and 4cyl ford from Sam's build.


Greg

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