I have been lurking here since the early days of the board. I'm building some slants now and I have a project that I'd really like to use an aluminum block for. It will be a stock type build, not a hot rod. I have never really seen one of these for sale outside of an overpriced entire car. At this point I'd like to get a feel for the market on one of these blocks. I'm sure you guys have an idea of how much they trade for in rebuildable condition. What is the price range these days? Any of you guys have one in your stash you'd be willing to part with?

Sounds like fun. Where are you located, and what is your car/build project? These come up from time to time, and folks on this board have some stashed.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Located in East Texas. Putting together a '67 Dart 2 door sedan right now for a driver. I'd like to do a super light 63-66 Valiant 2 door sedan next. Aluminum 1 bbl intake, Holley economizer, aluminum block, aluminum 833 OD box, maybe some fiberglass, etc. I think I can get the weight WAY down on that combo, like 1800 lbs...

Curb weight of the lightest '64 Valiant is 2670 lbs. A 225 adds 15 lbs. The A904 adds 25 lbs total over the tiny little A903 manual 3-speed. An iron A833 is +80 lbs. If you use a light clutch and flywheel with the aluminum case A833OD you might lose a little weight compared to the A903. The aluminum block and intake might lose 100 lbs together. So then you're around 2550 lbs with 9" drum brakes, 13" wheels and tires, manual steering, no radio, no heater, no undercoating. 1800 lbs is not achievable in a completely steel car.

https://www.hamtramck-historical.com/am ... oad_img=36

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Joshua

There are some pure race cars out there just under 2200 lbs. Granted they are iron block/automatic trans (and driver?), but still, 1800 lbs would be an unlikely feat - especially for a daily driver.
jus sayin....

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

I know a guy with a 2000lb 67-69 style dart. It's all steel/full glass windows, /6 manual trans. It is fully gutted.

I'll probably run aluminum bumper brackets, fiberglass bumpers, aluminum radiator, maybe lexan in the side windows, light weight door cards, aluminum A100 style seats, 7.25 rear, 9" drums, aluminum OD trans, aluminum bell, aluminum block, aluminum intake, mini starter, light battery, lots of tricks to get weight off and still look like a street car. Don't forget heater/radio delete...

The early body has a couple hundred pounds over the 67-69 to start with. I've scraped 100 lbs of undercoating off of a fully undercoated body before, there's lots of pork hiding if you look for it. Aluminum master cylinder and proportioning valve shed some weight. The new chinese economy line brake drums are several pounds lighter each than the originals!

When you have one stripped to a shell it's easier to just not not put back anything that's not absolutely necessary.

Anyway, the aluminum block is a big head start to getting weight off the car!

Are you talking about the UTG slant dart?

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

But do you really want those economy line Chinese drums? For safety and other reasons I'd gladly take the extra couple of pounds they may add to the car any day

How are we defining overprice? What's your budget for buying an aluminum engine?

Well the last car I saw for sale with an aluminum engine was a 61 or 62 Lancer 2 door. Asking $15k or something like that. Crazy for a car that ugly. If I'm going to have a car that looks like a 4 door I at least want the utility of the two extra doors...

Budget? I don't have one. I collect parts for projects as I find stuff I like at reasonable prices. I'm not looking to pay thousands for dollars for a block. I don't have any market info on what these trade for and that's the point of this thread. Are there any of these out there and what price range to they trade for?

Is it hundreds of dollars, thousands of dollars???

I can put a value on an iron slant block. I pick up complete engines that turn for $150. I'd pay $50-$100 for a nice STD bore block if I needed one. I have no frame of reference for the price of an aluminum block as I've never seen one listed for sale...

I've never really shopped for an aluminum block but when they are offered for sale they usually catch my attention anyway. Based on the few I've seen over the last several years I would expect to see a price tag around $500 for a usable block and maybe up to $1000 for a very nice one.

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That's exactly the info I was looking for ProCycle, thank you!

I'm willing to hold out for a useable block in the $5-700 range. The only real part I have for the build so far is an aluminum intake from a 1960 Valiant. I'm still scrounging parts for my '67 build so the Valiant is still a year or two off...

There was one on here last year, 1K, really don't remember, you should be able to find it.
Maybe someone can find the link.

I would not buy one with inspecting it, or someone who knows them.
Some parts are aluminum block only, make sure you get all the special parts.
Do you have Doug's book? Good info to go on.

Where in East Texas are you? I am just south of DFW.
I have one if you get over this way, we can talk about the block and concerns.

And 15K for a 62 sounds just about right.

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Hyper_pak

Yup, $15K (paid, not just asked) for a nice '60-'62 Valiant/Lancer is a real thing; welcome to 2020.

Last aluminum block I sold was a very fine standard-bore item with no corrosion or damage, complete with all caps. It went for $850 or so plus shipping…five years ago. There are fewer of them now than there were then.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I am aware of the special hardware required, I would definitely want to inspect the block before purchase. I'm just South of Lufkin. I'd like to come up and see your block even if we can't make a deal on it. Just to have some hands on experience with one. I guess I do need to get a copy of Doug's book, I don't have one.
Yes, prices are going crazy on this stuff. Some guys may go for the look of the early A cars but I'm not one of them. Some of Virgil Exner's stuff was cool but those I don't like. Thanks for the info on your sale, that's a good benchmark for a top-notch piece!