Looking for a bolt on Aluminum radiator fpr a 72 Duster
with a shroud that will work with a mechanical fan.
Looking at the Champion not sure if its any good. Has anyone used this brand? Im using
a clutch fan with the viscious fan. Using the Hemi clutch with the short shaft to make room
between the fan and radiator.
Thanks for your feedback.

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Brian Long

I think It depends on what chassis you are running.

D series truck?
F body?
67-76 A body?
60-62 A body?
A series truck / Van?

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Going in a 72 Duster

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Brian Long

Champion radiators typically use a 3 row core with small tubes. The good aluminum radiators have 2 rows of 1" tubes. I haven't found a bolt in aluminum radiator that I'm happy with.

Griffin makes a cross flow unit that will work but you're on your own for mounting, it's not a bolt in. I'll have to look up the number, it's about $225 from Summit IIRC.

I have a champion in my 78 Fury.
It bolted right in like the original one, and the stock shroud bolted right in.
We got one for the kids ramcharger and can't find any shroud to fit

LILAND GLOBAL 527AA2R
All Aluminum; 2 Row
22 in Core


$168 plus shipping on Rockauto.com

I haven't been able to find any detailed specs on the Liland Global radiators. The "2 row" is promising, just not sure what size the tubes are. If they're 1" or 1-1/4" it should be a nice piece. If 3/4" or 5/8" not so much.

http://lilandglobal.com
http://www.showmetheparts.com/liland/

On 318 applications, the difference in thickness between a single and a two row radiator is .5 inches. Leads me to believe the rows are roughly 1/2 inch thick.

I've been to their site and seen them on Rock Auto. Absolutely no information on tube size. They omit this info because it's a cheap Chinese core with inadequate tube size.

I'm running the Griffin Cross flow in my race car and my street truck. Both run and stay very cool even in 95 degree weather. There are hoses that make that part of it almost bolt in. You do have to fab up some brackets to hold it in place. 2 -1" tubes in both. I think they were under $200

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

on my application (78 Fury 2 door HT, 318 with AC, 55k original miles--- B body, same chassis as Cordoba, Monaco, Magnum etc) I had had problem keeping it cool for a couple of years. This is a car I only drive when its nice out. It's parked at least 6 months every year. sitting has not been kind to this cooling system.
I had taken the original radiator out and sent it into the radiator shop 2-3 times over the years and no difference. IDK what all they did to it while it was out of the car but each time they said "it's good now". When I got the car in 2007 with 38k miles on it (I am the 2nd owner) it never had problem staying cool. It has the original solid 4 blade fan that it came from the factory with. Back then the AC used to work too, adding more heat to the front of the car.... the AC had slowly dwindled in effectiveness over the years, I haven't tried the AC now in about 3 years. so that takes a burden off the cooling system yet that was about when the temps started having problem staying cool. I put one of those "flowkooler" water pumps in it along with a 180* stat which helped a little.

I had heard of Champion radiators among the forums I frequent and thought Id give them a try. griffin was the "big name" in aluminum radiators but as I remember they were $450+ at the time for one to fit my car. In a "stock replacement" anywhere I checked wanted to send me a Toyota-ish aluminum radiator with plastic tanks. No way!!!!! I wasn't putting a Japanese car-looking radiator in my car when it came originally with copper and brass.

I was browsing Ebay one day and found a few Champion units, the closest they had listed to my car was a 73-74 Charger, Satellite etc. back then sellers could openly put their phone number on EPay, but no more. I called them and told them what I was looking at and what kind of car I had and the person said "oh no, that isn't the one you want for that car.... we have THIS one, that lists as a direct fit for your car. Same money. and I thought TIG welded 100% aluminum would at least look better than alum/ plastic ever would so I went for it. and 3 row instead of the original single row. Something like $213 delivered to my door. I had it in 2 days. Lifetime warranty. and does it work? He11 yeah, almost too well. I am certainly going back to a 195 stat in it when I do my next upgrade to that car which is going to be an aluminum intake and (yet to be determined) carb. possibly a small cam at the same time.
Works great. Id do it again.

Yet when my son needed a radiator for his 89 Ramcharger, we had the opposite thing happen with Champion. He called Champion with his vehicle info, and they said the closest they had listed was for a 78-79 D/W truck/ Ramcharger. we wound up drilling different holes in the mounting wings, and have yet to find a shroud that fits the dam thing correctly, he was looking into having a custom shroud made/ but hasn't done anything with that idea yet.
he saw what a difference that Champion radiator made with my Fury so he took a chance on it fitting and doing the same thing for him that their radiator did for me. Even without a shroud, it has been decent, at least if he is moving. It gets a bit warm (not bad) if he has to sit at a traffic light for long. but comes down as soon as he gets going. I would think there are more 80s D/W trucks on the roads these days than 75-78 B body cars. yet as of a few years ago they had a direct fit for the late B but not for the truck chassis. Weird.
speaking of Japanese car-looking radiators, he put one in his then daily driver 90 W250 with a (gas) 360, and it barely cooled that on a lukewarm day. He wound up returning that for a refund, due to the lifetime warranty it came with. found one in the junkyard that did him better, for that truck.

He also has a 72 Fury (C body) 9 seat wagon with a 440. Along with the pile of spare parts he got with the car was an unknown brand, brand new looking, Champion-lookalike-design radiator, that was definitely too narrow for the C body. the PO was going to put it in that car. Nick (my kid) found a suitable one for the C body (used) out of a early 70s C body and took it in for a going thru at (a different) local radiator shop, and so far so good there. I think that alum one might find its way in either his 80, or my 85 slant powered D150.... depends on who's craps out 1st, I think.

If you cant find an original style copper/brass radiator for your car any more (it don't hurt to look, you might get lucky and find some old overstock somewhere) the 100% aluminum all welded construction radiators like Champion or Griffin style seems like the way to go. often able to buy for very little cost over a new plastic/aluminum and definitely do a better job.

I use either Afco or Griffin universal aluminum rads and just customize/make my own mounts and hoses.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Griffin used to make jewelry-quality stuff...they went through some changes and now they still are the best but their quality is not as nice as it used to be.

I like aluminum radiators well enough, but I use them because it's hardly possible to get good copper/brass radiators anymore. Aluminum is harder to repair and has a shorter lifespan than copper. Most of all....the idea that an aluminum radiator is a big weight savings doesn't ....hold water. That's because the real weight in a radiator is the water itself, and that doesn't change. I've weighed a lot of radiators and the aluminum versions are surprisingly close to the copper/brass ones.

25182X is the Griffin number that works best I think. It's currently listed at $177.32 on Summit. It's a universal fit crossflow unit but is easily adapted to a /6 Mopar A body.

I have a northern 209679 In my 64 dart. Got it from Summit Racing. Not sure on the price But I am sure you can look up the part #.
I had to modifiy the Core support a bit as this Rad was a cross flow 2 core with quite a bit more depth and width than a stock one. In a 67-76 A body It would be less hassle to fit.

Was idling in 95° the other day with a stock 4 blade fan. No shroud or electric fan. Was running normal temp.
I did have to use custom hose connections... Was too lazy to do the parts store thing and find the correct rubber hoses, but Rick Seems to know all that info.

20200708_071141 by Hyperpack, on Flickr
20200708_071153 by Hyperpack, on Flickr
20200708_071200 by Hyperpack, on Flickr
20200708_071212 by Hyperpack, on Flickr


Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack