Or smaller holes spaced from top to bottom

Depending on the style of the main well, actual fuel level may only matter a little bit, just one big hole at bottom. Main well with holes spaced top to bottom may be more sensitive to the actual fuel level.

Hmmm. I see I have some homework to do. Even though this is really a stop-gap measure while I gather what I need to go to fuel injection, I do need it to run right and be reliable.

Start at 9/32 and collect data, might be perfect at 9/32, if not try 1/32 lower. The Carter BBs and the early air bled bbd's are sensitive to fuel level, setting to the normal 1/4 float setting results in fuel being too high in the bowl. In any event the wideband will make you an expert almost overnight. On the needle and seat, in theory ethanol fuel will not affect the new replacements. No swelling up, in any event it's best to let the new parts soak in gas for a week. Let it affect the seat or not, then set float level.

I started reading this article discussing specific gravity and it brought back my time in college as a geology major and using a Jolly balance to determine the specific gravity of various minerals.

Again, great advice. To my knowledge, the AFB I am using is all original, but I cannot verify that the jets, rods, and springs are original. However, the floats are brass and the only parts in the carb that may swell due to being soaked in fuel would be the various needles on the fuel inlets. I will tear it down and clean it up and try to locate part numbers on the jets and rods as I work. I will also carefully measure the metering rods and note the diamter, length, number, and profile of the steps on the rods in case I have to start messing with them. My hope is that this AFB will be fairly close to optimally tuned and I can get away with only changing jets, if anything.

Yes original parts and clean passages in the carb are the pathway to success. Especially the idle circuits. Start at post 42 in this thread has pictures. https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/th ... 785/page-2

You don't really need those small drill bits, welders tip cleaner will do the same thing, just be careful one finger and one thumb all you need. Very gently make sure the passage is open especially the idle jet tube. Use a tip cleaner size or soft copper wire that will fit in easily and help dislodge the dirt, then blow out with compressed air or carb cleaner. The AFB 9501 is an aftermarket performance carburetor, it's idle passages are big enough already just make sure they're clean and open

Thanks a million. This actually gives me another idea- I might try running a tiny drill bit through the passages in the Carter BBD I had been running. It was working fine until it suddenly just stopped wanting to idle. Might be some junk got into one of the idle air bleed passages. I will still press ahead with the AFB refurishment since I might still need to run it.

I used to run 2 of them on a 318.

Dual carbs is something I don't thnk I ever want to attempt. Complexity aove my head. I will be proud of myself if I can just get my truck back up and running good and get this AFB dialed in.

The carb will probably work out of the box. I messed quite a bit with the edelbrock 500avs and it turned the out of box settings worked the best. The only real change was to the step up springs. I adjusted them to my engines vacuum level.

I am really thinking on putting that carb and the Clifford manifold on the Duster.