So, I'm trying Doc's method of degreeing the cam by pulling a dowel pin and putting the head on the block off by one cylinder. Unfortunately, the usual method of putting a Vise-Grip on the dowel pin to remove it only resulted in a boogered up dowel pin. I'm trying to see if I can cut threads onto the pin and use a nut to pull it, but what other options are there other than drilling the pin out? Do the pins extend all the way into the water jacket, and if so, can they be driven in with a punch and fished out of the water jacket? What other tricks have you used with good results?

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Matt Cramer
1966 Dodge Dart turbo / EFI project

Working in the machine shop, we had a chisel that we ground a notch in to capture the dowel pin, and then gently tapped around its entire diameter with a small hammer to work it loose. Then they came out pretty easily with vice grips. We bought replacement dowels in bulk, so it didn't matter if they got mangled up.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

Have you put heat on it yet? A propane torch for 5 min or so, spraying intermittently with PB Blaster or similar can help a bunch. You can also heat it then jam a wax candle onto it (to inject/suck molten wax into the gap), then extract the pin. The holes do not go into water jacket on any block I've seen. Many other ways to do this too...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Drilling as a last resort.

I would guess there is not enough material to thread it... But if it's really jammed on there try welding a nut , (or some other shape of steel that you can get a good grip on) onto the pin and then using a wrench or socket to begin removal - along with the usual heatin' & beatin' Routine.

I removed a stuck crank key using this method least year with the engine still in the truck - I had it all apart for a timing chain replacement and I wanted to replace the Crank key but I could not get it out. I cut a slot into 1/8" Steel and welded it onto the key - along with heatin' & beatin' and a Mini Sledge it removed with ease.

Good Luck!

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Super-heating the pin and applying wax is a good tip...
Also welding-on a nut.
I basically do both by arch welding on a nut, then hit the welded assembly with wax to cool it. (be ready for some smoke)
The pin comes out about 60% of the time.
40% it snaps-off at the deck. At that point, I just drill-out the "stub".
DD

Thanks. Tried to weld it...
Unfortunately, my welding skills weren't up to the job. Time for the drill.

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Matt Cramer
1966 Dodge Dart turbo / EFI project

looks like you forgot the nut..... welded right on the block deck....

There's a tool for dowel pin removal................

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

I didn't forget the nut - I liquefied it! The blob actually turned out not to be stuck to the deck.

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Matt Cramer
1966 Dodge Dart turbo / EFI project

Update: Successfully got the pin out with a drill. Started with a 3/16" cobalt bit and drilled a pilot hole, then put a 7/32" bit in there and it came right out without damaging the hole.

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Matt Cramer
1966 Dodge Dart turbo / EFI project

Congrats!
Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

It's not the easiest tool to come up with, but I use an R8 collet (5/16" size) with an outer sleeve to tighten on the dowel. Then I heat the block with a MAPP gas torch in the area around the dowel pin. Then, I tap some a couple taper wedges between the block and collet and the pins come out. This method is pretty reliable and does not damage the dowel pin.

I looked up a video on removing dowel pins that used a similar tool. Unfortunately, I only found out about that after I'd scratched up the pin badly with a Vise-Grip.

You know what they say - experience is something you only get after you need it.

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Matt Cramer
1966 Dodge Dart turbo / EFI project