I promise, when I get this done, I will post images and a step by step for other clueless people...

Parades are rough on the electrical system, too much idling. I don't want to have the revs higher because then I'm just heating up the transmission and wearing out the brakes. My current system of "take the car home and recharge the battery” isn't really ideal. This seems like a good way to resolve the issues and maybe prevent a fire.

I use a terminal like this, it makes it easy to attach the (2) leads without rings. (on Amazon)

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1964 Dart GT

I found those things for sale. Very attractive but how do I run a large enough lead to the starter motor if the big leads are both attached to the alternator?

I just use a brass version of the standard battery terminals.

Then rather than clamp the wire in, I add lugs to all the battery cables and use the screws to hold down the lugs.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

US Military battery post terminals. They can be had from NAPA in the Belden wire/cable line. Positive: 728223. Negative: 728222. Shown in this thread.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Nice. Is the US Military version technically superior to the emsvitil solution, which seems pretty clever?

Yes.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

There are (4) connection points on those terminals (2) available to hold up to 2/0 cable(00 AWG), and (2) side points to attach the (2) 10 gauge leads to the alternator. Much cleaner and simpler install. IMO.

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1964 Dart GT

You can do it quickly and cheaply by running two 10ga wires with ring terminals at each end directly from the alternator's output terminal to the battery + terminal. Each of these 10ga wires must have two 50A fuses, one located within inches of the alternator output terminal and the other located within inches of the battery + terminal.

Put the wires in sleeve/loom and route them where they're not likely to be snagged or cut. Across the top of the radiator support panel with anchored zip ties works well, or tucked under the lip at the top of the rad support. Once you've installed these wires your ammeter will no longer read correctly but you won't be running high current back and forth via thin wires through the firewall and low-rated ammeter, which is where the melt/burn/fire danger comes from.

Why a fuse at each end of each wire? Because that's a long run of (very) high-current cable we're running from the alternator to the battery, no matter what route we take with it. If we put a fuse only at the battery end, that's fine if a short circuit occurs somewhere downstream of the battery. If we put a fuse only at the alternator end, that's fine if a short circuit occurs somewhere downstream of the alternator. But if we want to protect against the prospect of big, destructive, costly fireworks no matter where a short circuit might occur in that line (say...like...in the middle of the line, halfway between the alternator and the battery) we put fuses at both ends.

Do you still leave the original wire from the wiring loom attached to the alternator + ?

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DRIVE IT,DON'T HIDE IT

Do you still leave the original wire from the wiring loom attached to the alternator + ? <-------This question is a good one. I did not see it answered anywhere.

In my travels on this forum, I did see it addressed. Some people leave it and have the alternator adjusted by an expert to make it conform to reality. Others put in an alternator. As far as I can tell people do leave it in, but 98% of the current flows through the bigger wires.

Hello,
I just installed a new 50 amp alt. with 4, 10 gauge inline maxi fuse holders with the four, 50 AMP fuses, the way you suggested to help protect my factory stock weak wiring on my '65 Dart. Is the 50 amp too much for my 10 gauge wiring or should I use 30 amp fuses? I've already hooked it up with the 50's. Also, I think I'm just going to hook up the voltmeter.
Anyway thanks for your help, any advice will be appreciated.

I was wondering (although the topic is slightly outdated) if you could post an image of this particular install? It would help me greatly to visualize this adjustment, since I'm also preparing this.

You're going to be waiting a long time for a answer. Do you always resurrect old dead threads?