Yup. S'kinda all I really need. Only going to run .485 lift with about .020 subtracted for lash. Once the valves are back cut and the valve job touched up we should be right in the ballpark.

Although plenty of people do it, tying to go much over .500 lift on a slant six head starts getting counter productive, IMO.

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Rob

It is enough that Jesus died and that he died for me.

Got the guides cut to the diameter seals I'm using and opened the sprAng seats up a little to accept the Comp 911 big block sprAngs. It's funny, one of the differences of this head compared to all the others I have.....over ten.....I ain't counted lately lol, all the others I have will take a spring bigger than the 1.550 diameter, while this head did not quite fit the Comp 911....I could JAM it down in there, but it needed more room, so I opened the spring pockets just a tad. Didn't go DOWN any mind you, just enlarged the diameter, cut the guide's diameter down a tad and removed the step at the base of the guide as well. But Jerry was right. This head is hard as a ROCK. I had a brand new Comp guide and seat cutter and it took a while.

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Rob

It is enough that Jesus died and that he died for me.

I've had numerous machine shop guys tell me Mopar iron is way tougher than Chevy iron. I think that's been 'proven' as the nickel content is higher.

The example I've heard, other than how hard it is to machine, is a Mopar block might show .010" wear on the cylinders, while a Chevy might show 3X as much under similar conditions.

yup. Ken at Oregon told me the same thing, when he had my cam and we were talking about surface treatments (or not?) that they do when a cam is done being ground, he said that Mopar steel is "pretty tough" compared to some of the others/ namely Chevy.... Look at how many Mopars had cams go flat vs How many Chevys have, over the years....

Besides volume of parts popularity/sold/ Chevys being so cheap to rebuild.... now maybe the truth is coming out.... no wonder Chevy parts are so cheap.

Right, I've heard machinists say similar all my life. The two heads I had milled recently.....the one I ended up "accidentally" having .155" milled off AND this closed chamber head, it only was milled .010"....the same guy did both and he also commented on how hard they both were. I've hear other machinists say similar. Petty interesting stuff.

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Rob

It is enough that Jesus died and that he died for me.

Yes, I've spoken with Ken about that same thing......very recently in fact. He said that all the Chrysler factory camshafts were hardened almost clear to the core. We were discussing him grinding a small solid roller on a factory solid flat tappet core......and he's going to do it for me.

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Rob

It is enough that Jesus died and that he died for me.

A little off topic, but I thought yall might like it. I got the milled head motor in the car and running. Actually sounds nastier than I thought it would. This one is right at 10:1 and that's the reason for the big cam so it will be pump gas friendly at 7.9 dynamic. .465 lift, 250 @.050 duration ground on a 108. QFT 450 on an Offenhauser intake with a ported exhaust manifold also opened up to 2.5". This video is just with the TTI head pipe and nothing else. I should have the rest of the TTI system before the end of the week. The closed chamber head motor may get put on hold a little longer if this one ends up running like it sounds. All I have left is the rest of the exhaust and getting the throttle cable attached....and getting the timing sorted out. I'm going to have to enlarge the slot in the bracket under the distributor, because with the camshaft timing advanced the 5* by the card, the ignition timing is advanced too much and It's out of slot to retard it. If I flip it back one tooth, then it's too far retarded and won't advance enough. It's right in the middle of no man's land, but I'll get it sorted out. I'd LOVE to find the 81 and up distributor hold down, but I know that's a fat chance. I may modify a Chevy small block one to work. Anyway....enough rambling, here it is.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMtKq3vBF3c

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Rob

It is enough that Jesus died and that he died for me.

I assume you know the dist clamp has two slots...and the one that attaches the clamp to the dist body can be adjusted as well? I think there is enough movement to cover one tooth, so no matter what you can always get the dist where you want it.

D

Oh yeah. I know. Trust me. I'm either going to have to elongate the slot under the distributor, or get the later clamp.

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Rob

It is enough that Jesus died and that he died for me.

Thanks. It's a long way off yet, so there is still a lot of time to figure it out. I don't even have lifters yet, so I've not done anything concrete. The biggest thing is, I'm not going to do anything so far out of the box as to take a chance on hurting that head.

_________________
Rob

It is enough that Jesus died and that he died for me.

About camshaft hardness and wearproofness: This might be worth a read and followup. It's from 34 years ago, and the process has quite a bit more evidence backing it up now than it did then (including the brake rotors on my daily driver, which permanently quit warping once I put in cryo-treated ones)

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Greg, I wanted to come back and thank you. I kept thinking about your comment all night and agreeing with it over and over. When we got back home from supper, I went out and retarded the distributor one tooth and that did it! Sometimes I'm stupid hard headed.....but I do appreciate your comment. I was able to get it at 15* BTDC and it seems to like it. I'll get the rest of the exhaust on it this week and drive it and see what it likes. It might need a little more. We'll see.

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Rob

It is enough that Jesus died and that he died for me.

As usual Dan, you always have some great information! Thank you!

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Rob

It is enough that Jesus died and that he died for me.

D