Look for voltage drop, usually at the bulkhead connector. If the voltage regulator is seeing less voltage than the battery is putting out, it will pull higher volts from the alternator.

It actually has pretty good voltage all the wway to the fuse box. It has a two volt drop across the ignition swithc, though. It is an aftermarket swwitch somebody hacked in place with a bunch of crimp-on butt connectors.

15v probably won't cook the battery. Mine was seeing 16+ at times and finally, after a half hour drive, blew the caps off the battery top. Acid got sprayed on the inner fender and underside of the hood, so a little baking soda and water cleaned it up.

Made quite the boom! I don't recommend running a mopar with an overcharge situation.

Reed, that 2 volt drop is triggering the alternator to add 2 volts to its output even though the battery is in the 13 volt range. In other words the voltage regulator is reading from a section of the harness that is down two volts. Make up a jumper connecting the VR's sensor terminal and plus side of the battery and see if the alternator's out put stabilizes around 14.3 V. If the is the result, than eliminate the voltage drop on the dash side of the fire wall or bypass the dash and remote read voltage at the starter relay or battery.

Jester: 8 or 9 years ago I had the same problem with that retro-fit solid state voltage regulator. It would drive the alternator to full output for 10 to 20 seconds then cut out, and repeat. It was junk. After three of these events within five minuets I reinstalled the old VR it replaced, and haven't messed with it since.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Believe me, when I finally get some free time and money I will be redoing the wwhole dash in this truck. Dropping the ammeter completely, adding all aftermarket gauges, rewiring everything. I just need it to keep making dump runs for now.